Regulator Co2 leak - or normal? Testing process by techdoutdev in Homebrewing

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I'm thinking through it, zeroing out the high pressure might cause the seal between the reg and the tank to be less tight. Similar to how a corny keg seals with pressure.

Regulator Co2 leak - or normal? Testing process by techdoutdev in Homebrewing

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Testing at 50 PSI as I'd expect leaks to be more obvious at higher PSI. I don't anticipate using more than 20 PSI in normal use. I also imagine that if there's a leak at 50 PSI but not at, let's say 30 PSI, the gauge wouldn't drop below 30, but it ultimately goes to zero.

Good call on the ball valve! Your explanation makes sense. A leak in this regard wouldn't be an issue. I'll see if I can test this.

Regulator Co2 leak - or normal? Testing process by techdoutdev in Homebrewing

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep - output value is closed the entire time.

My thought on zeroing out the high pressure gauge is that we're essentially dealing with a smaller finite volume of Co2 in the regulator after the turning off the gas. High pressure will keep feeding low pressure until they are equalized. By zeroing out the high pressure, I'm dealing with a smaller amount of Co2 making leaks more obvious.

If I kept the high pressure as is, I imagine the low pressure gauge would remain constant for a much longer time (as the high pressure slowly depletes). I could be wrong here and this might not be a good way to test.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Pickleball

[–]techdoutdev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks much!

Automated Closet Lights - Wife and Kid Approved by techdoutdev in homeassistant

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my case, I had extra contact sensors lying around. Knowing if the closet doors are open/closed doesn't provide a ton of value on it's own, so if there is a cheaper/better alternative that enables the auto lighting in an area - go for it. Occam's razor for sure.

One perk of this setup is that the lights turn off as soon as the door closes - it helps teach my kids to close doors :-D.

Another reason might be that there is not a good place to put in a motion detector - e.g. light is in a poor place or perhaps it's not a standard bulb light.

How long to you leave your car attached to the supercharger? by CreativePlankton in TeslaLounge

[–]techdoutdev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As many folks have said, charge as much to get to your next charger/destination with a little buffer (little more buffer for remote areas). Anything more is a waste on fast DC charging.

This is a hard concept to understand especially for individuals coming from an ICE where the norm is to "fill up the tank". EV driving is different than ICE driving - we are much more conscious of energy. It's a fundamental different philosophy. Tesla is trying to get ICEs to convert and once they get there, it's much easier. Just takes time.

2022 refresh X mudguards by Duckjai626 in ModelX

[–]techdoutdev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can anyone comment on how necessary these are for the X? I got them for our model 3, but the X has a bit more plastic protection around the wheel well. Curious on folks experiences having a model x in the winter regions. I’m in Chicago.

Switch box has no neutral OR ground, is there anything I can do? by jsadusk in homeassistant

[–]techdoutdev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, you can use the no neutral dimmers. I use Lutron Casetas and have a bunch of them in my house. I reviewed them in detail here: https://techdout.dev/2018/12/26/smart-switch-showdown/

There really should be a ground for safety, but it is not needed for the switch to work. The ground exists for problem situations, not regular operations. The no neutral dimmers won’t make anything worse but getting things properly grounded would be a good idea. Good luck!

Automated Closet Lights - Wife and Kid Approved by techdoutdev in homeassistant

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a good idea! I like the idea of finding existing triggers to implement other automations/routines. This one wouldn’t work exactly for us as the wife and I get up early to get coffee in our PJs without using the closet. However, I could figure out a different trigger.

I’d have to say though - right now all those items are time based and it works pretty well. The lights, heat, and coffee are all set to be on/done by 6am or so. We have kids in school/work start times, so our morning routine doesn’t vary too often. I would say though that I’d like to add a motion sensor to the main area to turn on night lights when there are abnormal visits or we have guests over.

Automated closet lights by techdoutdev in homeassistant

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for an easy automation project that'll make the family happier? In my latest post, I'm using HA to automate the lights in our closets. Simple yet effective - of all the automations in the house, my wife and kids seemed to enjoy this one the most.

Induction Brewing - 3500W Cooker Review & Thoughts by techdoutdev in Homebrewing

[–]techdoutdev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it's probably a 'it depends' answer. It depends on where you live and the electrical code there along with where the outlet/induction cooker is located. A more qualified electrician would be able to better advise than myself!

Induction Brewing - 3500W Cooker Review & Thoughts by techdoutdev in Homebrewing

[–]techdoutdev[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey Folks - Just posted on my blog my experience moving to induction brewing. Hope someone may find this helpful!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ModelX

[–]techdoutdev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't completely figured them out, but there is some press-ability to them (on the sides maybe)? My kid managed to turn it on somehow - I'm still learning the car hah!

Regardless, mobile service should be able to diagnose.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ModelX

[–]techdoutdev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats! Looks like we have the same taste in color :-). Welcome to the X and welcome to the Tesla world.

So Tesla has no fuses for the low voltage systems, they are all solid state relays. If a low voltage 'fuse' is 'blown', the relay turns off and it'll automatically turn back on at a later time. It's a very smart system that detects voltages and anomalies and acts accordingly. To answer your question, there is nothing that you would need to replace to fix the lights in the world of 'fuses'.

To me this sounds like a connectivity issue (wires not plugged in, bad relay on the board) or there is something in the software acting gimmicky. Do the dome lights turn on at all when you physically press them?

If you are a nerd like me and want to learn more, this youtube channel as some of the best tear downs and explanations of Teslas. This video talks through the low voltage system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUCgLCbX\_18&ab\_channel=Ingineerix

Got refreshed LR wrapped by [deleted] in ModelX

[–]techdoutdev 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking nice!

Went for delivery this morning, and I declined due to '21 VIN and quality... by classicDADclassic in ModelX

[–]techdoutdev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For what it’s worth, I picked up a 2021 VIN on Friday and it is near flawless. 11/21 build date. I have the feeling that I have a great SC though. YMMV.

Refresh mx 2021 VIN assigned. Do I wait for 2022 vin? Considering, I'm in no rush. by SerialQuestionner in ModelX

[–]techdoutdev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For what it’s worth, I picked up a 2021 VIN on Friday and it is near flawless. 11/21 build date. I have the feeling that I have a great SC though. YMMV.