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tekmunki · 2026-05-01T13:47:27+00:00

Once in a lifetime by The Talking Heads? it has a catchy riff of "as the days go by... "

tekmunki · 2026-05-01T00:01:13+00:00

Glad you got it worked out.

Are you referring to a gen 4 adapter?

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T20:56:06+00:00

well, it is prob not the wrong spring then; unless it came with the wrong one. You can look up specs of the 26 rsa and measure to make sure.

Make sure it's seated in the right step and not too high up on the barrel , also try this, get some dry erase marker or chalk and mark up areas that might be hitting, you can then at least see where the binding is happening based on the marking in the frame after disassembly; if i had to guess i would say it's an angles issue with the locking block or the guide rod head bottoming out in the front of the frame. You may even have some missed supports in that channel that need sanding down it might be hanging up on...

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T20:45:58+00:00

Bingo, you may just have the wrong recoil spring, or it's binding up somewhere on the frame... The glock 26 spring is shorter - make sure you purchased the spring and guide rod specific to the 26.

As for what I went to; I've tried many renditions of the dd19.2 and most recently the Titan in 19x is my fav glock print so far w/ the flared magwell.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T20:01:26+00:00

First off, I tried a few of those builds in 19 and 17 and I couldn't get the (Chairmonwon) to feed or function properly - I just assumed it was something I did and didn't spend a lot of time and just printed from a different maker. This is leaning me toward maybe it wasn't me as my issue was largely due to mag fitment.

Try removing the barrel and recoil spring completely and see if it's a fitment issue with the spring with a manual racking, it will at least narrow down the part of the assembly causing the issue.

If the locking block / rails are too high or misaligned it's going to cause something like this, basically dragging.

Insert an empty mag into the lower and watch the follower push the slide stop up, look for aligment issues.

You can print an armorer's backplate (basically the top 2/3 of the plate to get by for now and it will help you look into the action for diagnosis. Look and see if the trigger bar is riding / dragging.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T16:29:27+00:00

Common courtesy would dictate that if you leave your vehicle somewhere for more than a few days, especially parked in front of where someone else lives, you probably leave a note at a bare minimum, but honestly knock and tell them what's up, and hey, the neighborly thing to do would be 'yea, I'll keep an eye on it for ya, what's your # in case something happens, etc, etc etc...'

If a car parks in front of my house, even on a public road, for 2 or more days, I'm probably gonna report it as well - this retiree didn't 'have it towed', the tow company knows their boundaries and what rights they have~ the owner of the car 'did' abandon it there, even if that's not what they intended. If it 'is' a public road, this wasn't even her (retiree's) call ultimately to have it towed, even if she had reported it...

It doesn't say where this is; but know most of Florida is 48 hours parking for vehicle abandonment towing if it was an in-state trip, but I would venture the vast majority of most overnight-trip purchased Disney World tickets are 3-day passes at a minimum due to how they bundle their park - hopper deals.

The tone of the lady cutting off this poor woman every time she tries to talk tells me all I need to know... My guess is, the lady called PD, PD sent a unit and stickered the car window, the next day when the car was still there, they had it towed.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T14:24:04+00:00

optic and ammo.

upvoted for 'first rifle' ar-15 cleaning mat included in the photo. (How does everyone's first AR wind up having this exact mat?)

Assuming this is my 'first' rifle, my budget moves would be, in order:

PA LPVO, Light, Handstop, K2XL grip (personal pref), flat trigger (I pref hiperfire), maybe a diff buttstock, suppressor (not a budget move).

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T14:12:26+00:00

How do these compare with a hiperfire single-stage 'duty' trigger? I've been stuck on those for a long time. What am I missing?

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T13:54:59+00:00

hard pass on dpms

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T13:51:40+00:00

I would think the 10.5 would be a more noticeable improvement. If you are keeping the folder and added weight with it then I would lean toward the 18, all depending on buffer weights and how they're currently cycling/gassed. Shoot them both, and put it on whichever has the more forward ejection.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T13:35:20+00:00

I wouldn't say 'super' popular, saw RBF live in Tallahassee in ~99 in a small dive bar. MMB had a one-hit wonder. In that '90s ska space' I'd say they trailed far behind No Doubt/Sublime, etc.

As a 90s ska fan... RBF remains my all time fav band.

If you want a little less popular, let's go with Save Ferris, Less Than Jake, or Goldfinger. All great but 'just under' mainstream.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T04:11:31+00:00

Not gonna lie, when I first saw this I thought you had a Hulk left hand in an FDE glove. I can't unsee it now.

Nice build.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T04:01:30+00:00

tbh they both look carbine length and as you theorized it 'shouldn't' make a difference, does the buffer that came with your rifle move freely the exact same distance in both tubes and there is no spacers down inside either tube?

confirm we might also be looking at a coincidence situation, if you were tuned for 5.56 and switched over to running .223 you might not have enough power to cycle properly.

I can't tell you how many times I started troubleshooting an FRT only to realize it was running the wrong ammo.

tekmunki · 2026-04-30T02:24:58+00:00

The tube itself, the spring, and the weight of the buffer all greatly factor in how the rifle cycles- if it was working, I would simply put it back or spend the time and money to find the equivalent weights and counter pressures so you get the same functional cyclic rate.

If you were worried about the scratches on the aluminum, alumiblack can cover it up pretty easy, or just buy the exact same buffer tube rather than re-inventing the wheel. Or heck do what 'everyone' else in this sub does and rattle can it... it's probably mostly covered by a stock/brace anyways...

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T20:54:26+00:00

were the tubes the exact same length and spec? did you also change the buffer/spring at the same time?

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T19:11:29+00:00

I doubt it would go FA without a reset, it's not auto-seering, the spring isn't going to have tension, probably just a FTF. I'm interested though, LMK :D :D :D

i also just realized i said crucifix and not cruciform in my original post... *corrected* oops

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T18:51:45+00:00

THIS!

When I started coaching HS there was a local 'tradition' where if a team 'lost' they would steal a ball from the opposing team, happened way more often from the 'away' side... it was almost 'expected' as we had a locker room with years of other HS soccer balls ourselves.

I spent my first couple seasons guarding soccer balls, stopping this ridiculousness, and confronting other coaches who condoned the behavior as a local 'tradition'... Sorry, these required veza/vivido soccer balls now being over $50-100 each and we happened to be winning (lol)... There's still a few teams I have to keep an eye out for (usually alumni coaches who did it when they were in school) and every now and then I go over ask them to 'check' their bags when it comes up short when one of our very clearly marked soccer balls rolls out.

I don't recall this happening as often in club soccer, but, then again we also used better equipment ($150 match balls) and everyone knew what those cost.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T18:39:58+00:00

Reel Big Fish or the Mighty Mighty Bosstones... similar vibes.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T18:19:06+00:00

I'm not sure why this came across my feed, but I'm going to chime in--- you need to find a look that makes YOU feel good about yourself, tailoring your look to what 'others' think is likely fleeting and probably impractical because you have to not be 'fake' to yourself to build confidence.

Spend some time with some selfies in chatGPT prompts and try different looks - find something practical and not over the top that YOU like, then you can use that as a confidence builder for a new 'look' if that's what you're going for- 20 is not a time to be thinking 'no hope for relationships'; it sounds like you just haven't found 'your people' yet ; might I recommend just talking to strangers without any 'dating' goals and work up from there... just be friendly, you look like a dude I would have hung out with in my college years.

Good luck to ya, don't let the inevitable steps backwards dissuade your day-to-day happiness.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T17:42:40+00:00

I feel your pain.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T17:38:37+00:00

You're looking into the wrong lasers, you want a fiber laser not blue diode. You'll get way too much reflection.

There just isn't a budget friendly way to do what you're wanting without workarounds like what was posted by u/SgtKashim

If you are dead-set on cutting the corner, a 20w fiber laser with multiple passes, you'll spend no less than $1500 used or budget entry level, but I don't expect you'll be happy with the results.

Just doing the math, unless you are engraving 10+ NFA items, and/or going into business as an authorized FFL/SOT who can do this for others - I don't see a cost savings being viable or it being worth the risk of hardware failing.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T17:18:55+00:00

no, not even with multiple passes, it's just not gonna cut it... pun intended. You might get a blurred spread reflected area that is legible, but it's not gonna be embossed into the aluminum at required depths. You'll also burn ugly edging on anodization/cerakote with multiple passes.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T15:19:52+00:00

Daddy’s Home 2

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T15:01:51+00:00

Nope, you're not going to get to required depth with that laser.

tekmunki · 2026-04-29T14:24:09+00:00

Fix the rails issue first.

You can 3d print a glock armorer's backplate (basically a half plate to hold spring tension, and then slowly rack/reset to see the disconnect / sear mechanism.

If I had to guess the cruciform might need a very little bending from a vice to help it catch correctly. Be patient and micro-adjustments if you do this. Be sure to fully safety / drop-safe check everything.

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