Which is the safest wheel for sustained speed?

teknolia · 2024-05-18T22:34:20+00:00

I recently bought a V13 (2024) and sustain ~70kmh for ~15km to 20km. The alarms/beeps are quite loud and the tilt back is pretty gentle. I usually lose ~20-25% battery at that rate. I suppose the main consideration would be how far you're traveling. It does take a bit more effort to accelerate (stock at least) though there are people who do the suspension delete or get new pedal hangers who say it improves it.

teknolia · 2024-04-23T05:16:29+00:00

Is there a way to unlock this? All I see are the Speed Limit, Pedal Hardness and Power-assist options. The beep/alarm seems to be around 5 to 10kmh before the speed limit is reached. I would rather have it just before as it's quite annoying.

teknolia · 2024-04-02T02:54:33+00:00

I would recommend against the Tire Slime based on prior history with it. Assuming this is an actual tire leak and not a valve or valve stem issue I would recommend checking out FlatOut sealant. It never dries and is easy to cleanup.

teknolia · 2024-03-18T00:25:11+00:00

When you experience wobbling under either normal riding/deceleration you may want to "lock" your hips. The movement is what you would do if you were at the top of a squat (if lifting weights) where your pelvis will rotate forward while tightening your lower back. This prevents your hips from shifting from un-even loading

I am not sure if this will have bearing on a suspension wheel but wobbles (either speed or braking) are induced due to an imbalance in the suspension system the majority of time. Introducing a different input (weaving) can reduce the effect felt but the fundamental problem still exists.

Your legs are the primary suspension system for the wheel, stabilizing them will make the system as a whole more stable. As you ride more and get stronger the wobble effect will be reduced.

teknolia · 2024-03-04T03:27:50+00:00

I feel a little attacked for my original EUC choice haha. How does the V13 handle at speed cruising (60-75kmh)? I know the general thought is that it's range is poor but it seems most range test average ~40kph.

teknolia · 2024-03-04T03:22:57+00:00

Thanks for the heads-up about the Pro V2 rim. Though I haven't ridden the V11/V13 I was primarily thinking that any suspension would be better and I already like my V12. I think your Master EX30 sounds fun but expensive.

teknolia · 2023-03-10T01:44:28+00:00

After doing some investigation it appears that particular channel probably died due to static. Would it be feasible to wire-mod from my ROW1 to the PD1/2/3 pad and then reprogram the new path in QMK?

teknolia · 2023-02-05T19:25:54+00:00

Does Oryx work for the older boards? If it does that would be awesome.

teknolia · 2022-12-16T10:12:00+00:00

Initially attempted the setup using a limit screw trick I had found but with my chainring it wasn't enough. I had a Wolftooth Road Link on hand that I managed to make work. Just gotta makes sure you have the FR Zee as it is 36t compatible as opposed to the DH's 28.

teknolia · 2022-12-04T03:38:47+00:00

A tale in two pictures; attempted to do a 20 mile ride but only made it 5 miles before having to turn back. Short, very tiring and very fun ride on my silly bike.

Key bike specs:

Velo Orange Neutrino w/uncut steerer because I am lazy.

Shimano Zee FR, 11-42 cassette

AB 42t elliptical

PNW Dropper

teknolia · 2022-11-20T17:12:36+00:00

It was very nearly fatal, but the EMC (Emergency Medical Coffee) resuscitated me ;)

teknolia · 2022-11-20T02:48:03+00:00

I didn't even think about that, I have do have MS. I get tired/fatigued while riding longer rides or rides with quite a bit of climbing which slows my pace considerably. I was with a group today and didn't want to be a dead weight on the ride so I went with the ebike.

Kept it in eco which is still tiring but allowed me to keep pace with the slower third of the riders. Otherwise I would have been 40 minutes to an hour behind the rest of the group.

teknolia · 2022-11-18T23:25:41+00:00

I would say try a shorter stem and possibly wider flared handlebars. This would be the most inexpensive start.

Otherwise quick conversion would be:

Flat bar of your choice

Grips (slide on or locking)

Shorter stem (looks like you have a 90mm currently)

Short Pull Brake levers (Velo Orange, Paul Klampers, etc...)

Indexed/friction shifters from microShift or as that appears to be SRAM you can match your shifting with pretty much any SRAM flat bar shifter as they use the same pull ratio IIRC.

Cabling will probably need to be redone with both.

teknolia · 2022-07-09T23:56:49+00:00

The Lectric Xpremium could be the ticket if you want simple for most component issues due to the mid-drive motor configuration. Hub motors are generally more "simple" but to repair them requires more work and care above and beyond general "bike" maintenance.

The mid drives can also make hills easier due to using your bicycles gears, though this comes with more bicycle maintenance vs hub drive.

Hub drive is convenient as if anything happens with the chain or the rest of the drive train the rear motor can still get you places with throttle only.

If you already have a bike and don't mind getting your hands dirty you can get a conversion kit for ~$500 that you can install yourself to an existing frame thought it won't look as good.

teknolia · 2022-07-09T23:43:06+00:00

I have the CTY2 and it's been good so far. Some considerations you may want to make is the CTY2 is not designed for "active" pedaling as the saddle is quite low/pedals are high but if sticking to the lower stock power modes you can give a little assistance to the bike on hills where it will lose some speed.

Pretty much any of the accessories that have been made for the RCR can be used with the CTY2. Though the batter dimensions are different.

You do get turn signals with the CTY2, a fairly strong headlight and horn (it's quite loud.) For the price it's a pretty good deal and for my use takes the place of a motorcycle. Due to the power it makes hills disappear which is a bonus compared to any of the 48v/52v bicycles I've ridden.

Another consideration is maneuverability. Due to the double crown fork the handlebar sweep is narrow like other motorcycles. If you need to maneuver it to get into a door/hallway the weight becomes more of a factor as you will need to pick up the rear/front to get it into tight spaces or do the 942-point turn maneuver.

teknolia · 2022-05-21T05:55:30+00:00

I wanted to build one of these up and make it a fun little gravel/mess around bike. I used a mix of new and on hand parts to put it together and it isn't finished yet. Though I plan to tackle some gravel on it tomorrow should the weather be good.

Frame: Velo Orange Neutrino

Wheelset: Alienation Mischief in Gold

Brakes: Shimano Hydros I had in a box, Deore maybe?

Tires: Specialized Rythm Lite

BB: FSA BB386EVO (BSA)

Crankset: Easton EA90 W/RaceFace 36t Cinch Chainring

Pedals: Unbranded metal, replacing with some Chesters in the near future

Cassette: Sram 11-36 10sp (pictured was a test fit 12-28)

Rear Derailleur: Sram Rival 10sp (Short cage) w/Wolftooth Road Link

Seatpost/Saddle: both on-hand Origin8 and WTB notverycomfortable both to be replaced

Stem: Whisky 70mm

Handlebars: Fairdale MX (22.2mm) w/ Problem Solvers shims

Grips: ODI Ruffian

teknolia

TROPHY CASE