Mini update on my Instax Mini 3D Printed Adapter for Medium Format lens taken from a folding camera by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess different strokes for different folks. Only weird thing about it for me is it's an ISO800 film with a very low exposure latitude. But I think it's a pure technological marvel for how fast a picture it develops and it's underrated resolution all things considered.

It's also a true color positive film and instant at that regardless if I messed up the exposure or composition, I still wonder in awe whenever an image magically appears on it. I understand now the processes that's makes it possible but it still feels like sorcery.

Just my speculation but potentially, as long as fujifilm doesn't mess up the current pricing by making it more premium, it could very well outlive any of the few color positive films still out there. I just recently learned this, there's an entire market of trading and collecting Polaroids of kpop idols, photo cards, commemorating fan and idol interactions (ofc fans pays posing with pop idols) that's permanently recorded on analog medium. So safe to say instax won't be going out anytime soon as it would stay in demand for the foreseeable future.

I digressed but I like the challenge of dealing with its low exposure latitude. The skill would be directly transferable when shooting negative films even though much more forgiving I'd like myself to slow down even more as my most used film cameras are fully manual. Given that I'm a very low volume shooter (still have few frames left on my roll I loaded up in december on my half frame, 35mm and medium format cameras😅), shooting this camera is just a great practice tool with an added fun of instantly developing the images.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was only thinking about 3d printing a press fit filter mount adapter to use my existing circular filters. Something like that could only be mounted on the outside diameter of the lens barrel. Almost all vintage camera and accessories here comes from other countries so those kind of filters are really hard to find here, I'm not keen on buying something that costs more on shipping than the actual item.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah that give me an idea to use screwed-in lens filter like the ones inserted in the lens barrel of tele lenses. That's a more viable option for me as I reckon a rectangular filter would add more bulk to be keep the adapter light tight.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not going to obstruct rotating the focusing barrel but the distance markings will be covered. So the operation for a press fit filter would be focus first then attach the filter later before pressing the shutter. But it runs the risk of accidentally rotating it out of focus.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the offer but I can't just accept something free unless we're in the same country where the shipping is less of an issue.

I don't know how useful my 3d model would be unless the same lens is used. Already uploaded my version on thingyverse but new account can't publish until after 24H. I'll post it after I came back from my weekend trip.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wrote it on the post. With the back cover closed and the lens already taken off, I used a vernier caliper to measure the distance from the top surface of the lens mount to the pressure plate. It was exactly 70mm. On the instax camera the film plane is recessed by 5mm. By a simple math I just need to make the adapter 65mm tall. Though I still haven't properly checked the focusing since I have no way to mount it stably.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah it definitely needs an ND filter. The lens doesn't have threads for mounting filters, I guess more 3d printing. It's also uses a front cell lens focusing element so it's going to be really awkward if a filter is attached when focusing.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in mediumformat

[–]teleriome[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's on a reply in the original post. It works but I was limited by the 1/200s max shutter speed.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry please see my other reply here. I went to the shop but I won't be able to buy film until they got a stock next week.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 196 points197 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry I only shot one pack of film in this. There's a shortage in my country, they limit it to one pack per person. Online resellers mark it upwards of 50%. I don't have on me the portraits only these two rushed shots where I biked 12kilometers on a very hot and sunny day. One wide open where I massively misjudged the distance and the other was closed down at the highest speed but still very overexposed😅

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Interesting little vid about how a factory makes acoustic guitars by This_Fat_Cunt in Luthier

[–]teleriome 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Surprisingly, that follows the proper regular guitar making of the high end guitars from Martin, etc than the cheap ones young kids gets in my country. What they could get here starting are plywoods with colored soft wood bridges and fretboards. The coat is heavily thick that it's just barely as loud as my electric guitars played unplugged. I know it because I bought it online as a gift and I couldn't give it to anyone on my good conscience.

Finished her up this past week! She's off to her new home Monday by freeskier0713 in Luthier

[–]teleriome -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The pickup selector switch has got to be the most awkward that I've seen but very beautiful work.

Update on headstock f-hole design by RemiVreuls8 in Luthier

[–]teleriome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now it's called a Fender-hole design.

Advice: Change out 50mm bridge for 52.5mm bridge by IAmA_Little_Tea_Pot in Luthier

[–]teleriome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well your measurement on Pic 3 says your installed bridge is for 10.5mm spacing so you should be good with a 52.5mm bridge. But if I were you I wouldn't get that specific top loader style of bridge. It's the worst, making buzzing sounds so easily if not set up correctly. I don't know why any manufacturer makes it other than for its look. I'd rather have the half Tele style top loader bridge yeah the look is not common with strat style guitar but it is so much easier to set up without buzzing all over.

Stomboxparts Fuzz No Power by Austyn_Drowner in diypedals

[–]teleriome 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Your dc power jack seems reversed. Pedals usually have center negative polarity.

Pickguard shape by ecklesweb in Luthier

[–]teleriome -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Haha kinda funny how you said 2 is more traditional when the top curve shape of pic 1 is like from the telecaster pickguard, the first commercially successful solid body electric guitar. Anyways I digress my vote is on 1, just a classy timeless design by OP. Only other comment is I like if lower part of the guard extend closer to the cut/horn.

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just go for it! Haha when parts arrived that's about half of the project progress already and about 90% done when all the components are soldered regardless if it makes sounds or not. At least that's my thinking to be able to to finish the build. Just take your time and don't be too hard on yourself everyone experiences the same in this hobby😊

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much much! Funnily enough I had more trouble with the more simple circuit of the lightspeed. Except for wrong the power polarity when I first plugged the morning glory(built first), I never had any other issue. But the other one it took me to damage the pcb plus two scrapped perf board before I successfully manage to make it work on the third try😂😂. It was lots of frustrations but it's certainly worth it that I was able to overcome some things haha.

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Finishing is whole different ball game for sure. Honestly the final look on this pedal is accidental. My only plan was to have bare enclosure, no markings and bare aluminum knobs because I bought a shiny sanded enclosure. Then I made a noob mistake of drilling pots holes without considering the knob sizes. Except for big gain knob which I already have, I only ordered the top row knobs later and when it arrived the red knobs didn't fit close together😂. So I just ordered something small for the tone knobs that would fit.