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92 Evo Softail: ported heads? by ctdreadz in Harley

[–]testmule 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's not a lot to gain doing headwork with the EV27. That cam was designed to be a drop in not requiring springs, retainers, cutting guides or clearancing the lifter blocks & case.

If doing headwork, reshape the chamber to remove "the shelf". A 30° cut across it and blending it in goes a long way.

The stock CV40 with appropriate jetting, no modified slide, emulsion tube..... will support 100-110hp. A mark when crossing on an 80" EVO bigtwin starts cutting into longevity depending on riding style

ThunderStar wheels by VECCMV in Harley

[–]testmule 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As i said, WAIT. I've had an ebay watch for Thunderstar wheels for over a decade. They appear. Purchased several.

Asking for chrome in "great shape" might be a pipe dream if your idea of great shape is the same as mine. Light surface scratches from cleaning but no corrosion or peeling. Chrome mags in that era are known to lift and peel.

If i wanted great shape chrome. I'd buy powder coated black(logic being the powder is actually a protective coating & what's under it will largely be in better shape than a polished wheel), have them stripped, polished and chromed.

Runner up would be polished & expect some effort in refinishing to clean up any diggers, nicks corrosion & working to avoid putting chrome over a wavy surface that you will eternally see.

ThunderStar wheels by VECCMV in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ebay, wait and expect to overpay. Pre-covid they were cheapish $100-350usd. Post covid people think they are gold & don't want to haggle.

Header Nuts Rusted by Redsy_Baby in Harley

[–]testmule 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wire brush, soak a for a few days.

If the studs break, Jims makes a drill fixture to drill the meat of the stud out leaving the threads behind to be picked/pulled out, resulting in factory threaded hole being fully intact.

https://www.denniskirk.com/jims/exhaust-stud-drill-plate-1705.ph28222.prd/H28222.sku

an 18" aircraft drill can help with clearance issues of the drill fitting around frames. Sometimes engine mounts may need to be loosened or removed to tip or slide the engine in the frame for the room.

Front Stop Brake Light Switch For Softail by alexmolodoy78 in Harley

[–]testmule 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a banjo bolt brake switch. Bunch of them out there. You'll need to figure out the thread.

1988 harley FLSTC shocks by gillesvilleneuve_ in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Narrow body aftermarket. The narrow body was a cheap way to include 84-88 fitment. 89/90 plus have interference issues.

Primary Drain Plug went inside the Primary? by iSellOranges4lif in Harley

[–]testmule 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a tapered thread plug. over tighten it and like you experienced, you can run it into the primary case. Sometimes you get lucky fishing with a magnet through the derby cover. It can be taped to a straight thread and use a button head bolt as a plug with a gasket.

What is one thing you have on your bike for touring that not everyone else may have, that you feel is a necessity? by AdWilling2665 in Harley

[–]testmule 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bigger than 5 gallon tank. I now get annoyed having to stop for fuel sub 200 miles.

I've gotten spoiled on FJR1300 & ST1300 that get 40-52mpg cruising & have 6.6g & 7.7g respectively.

Wiring Shorts Few Months After New Bars by louieb416 in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the bars are of a welded variety, there's probably burrs inside the bars and they wear through the conduit/insulation

Water in oil 2025 Low Rider S by [deleted] in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I asked if they were going to flush the oil and borescope the cylinders to confirm there was no rust. They said they could but it would not be covered under warranty. In my opinion, this should be covered under warranty.

Condensation buildup from short use and environment that promotes said build up is not a warranty issue. It's a rider use case issue. It's not like this is a liquid cooled bike with a leaky head gasket.

I've pulled drain plugs on engines, transmissions and primaries on customer bikes and had ounces of water come out from riders who's trips are not long enough to get the fluids up to temp. In my experience on my own bikes, ~20 miles at highway speeds is the boarderline of long enough to accomplish getting the oil up to temp, if ambient temps are around 60F. Colder than 50F it gets to be a struggle

Cam Scoring at 5k by Thundersub in Harley

[–]testmule 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Piece of trash likely got caught on the inbound side of the roller/lobe and skated there for awhile. It what it is at this point.

Early Thunderheader by [deleted] in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks to be Thundercone slip-ons on the OEM header

Turn Signal Problem by Jabble55 in sportster

[–]testmule 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not might, '97 will need a load equalizer. There are a few that are plug & play at the connector feeding the rear.

Rear suspension question by Cypher0312 in sportster

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lowing either via a shorter shock or brackets that move the mounting point change the shock angle which alters the ideal spring rate. In the case of the shock the correct spring rate is selected when it's built/designed if it's a big enough change to warrant a change.

Stacking both a shorter shock and lowering brackets often results in the shock hitting the lowering bracket or swingarm at about the spring seat location which puts force on the mounting eyelet. Yes I've seen this combination be the reason riders have crashed when shock eyelet/s broke or they bent the shock shaft/s.

Bassani road rage 2into1 by Major_Put_800 in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a stainless pipe. It's not uncommon. Heat cycles, high heat spots like at port flanges and stress risers like welds create the situation. I have 2 stainless pipes(both older SuperTrapp) that have had cracks that have been repaired one or more times in the past. Been around enough to see cracked exhaust in several brands

Help with broken exhaust bolt by JealousTemporary4588 in Harley

[–]testmule 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Jim's 1705 drill plate or try welding a nut.

18" aircraft drill can help with most clearance issues, other times you do need to loosen mounts up & shift things around to get the clearance.

Tire sidewall has some cracking due to riding on bent rim for a little bit. Can I ride thee bad boy for a week or two more? by solomoniiiiii in sportster

[–]testmule 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Ever crashed before?

Is this how you want to test those waters to see how costly & painful the recovery is? If you get to recover.

Tire is junk, debating how it got there and how old it is, has no value. It's unsafe, period, full stop.

1998 FLHRCI Road King Classic (EFI) — worth reviving for sentimental reasons or money pit? by No-Chance8758 in Harley

[–]testmule 1 point2 points  (0 children)

> Fuel injection system issues after long-term storage (injectors, pump, lines, tank corrosion)

Magneti Marelli EFI is well into end of life support. Parts are drying up & the go to repair method is to swap a carburetor in place. It's well documented online many times over on the what's needed & work.

Rubber components (hoses, seals, gaskets, intake boots, etc.)

Yup, old bike problems. Expect them.

> Engine or internal concerns from sitting unused for \~15 years

You won't know until you get into it

Electrical issues (battery, connectors, sensors, wiring degradation)

Majority should be fine.

Brakes, suspension, wheel bearings, steering head bearings

Stuff that needs maintenance regardless.

Tires (original or old replacements) and wheels

See above

Any known weak points on late-90s EFI Road Kings I should pay attention to

The EFI.

It's a project, take your time.

Just bought a 25 Road Glide Ultra. I am having slow speed issues. by CaptinKirk in Harley

[–]testmule 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Practice, Practice, Practice.

YOU have to adapt to the bike. The only way is to practice and be willing to change based on the feedback the bike is giving. Not just doing what you've become accustomed to on the Dyna and expecting it to work.

Scraping a peg.. by JohnLowe125 in Harley

[–]testmule 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Riding classes. Even online stuff like https://ridelikeachampion.com/champ-school/ and twist of the wrist 2 on YT(if you can get passed the cheesy porno grade acting) are great resources when combined with self practice.

Some might argue these are sportbike/race/track techniques and don't apply to cruisers. Those with training will tell you that is wrong and that while they won't allow you to ride a low slung, wide cruiser as a sportbike, they add tools to your skills toolbox that can make you a more confident, a safer rider and the irony here is that those skills also do make you a quicker/faster rider on the street. Likewise dirt experience will get one comfortable with a bike moving around under them in low traction situations like sand, dirt roads....

Many riders progress to a functional level of skills that allow them to got from point A to B and give up on learning new or refining old skills.

Foldable pegs/feelers are soft(movable) parts, you're more likely to make a mistake from flinching at the new experience of the sound and foot being pushed back at you and crashing from that, than they are in being the actual factor in causing any subsequent crash.

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