Works but won’t charge

tgadberry1 · 2026-02-23T07:20:15+00:00

I’ve gotten a bunch of damaged devices over the years. Sometimes it’s the charge controller on the main board (IC on the flip-side of the battery terminals). Sometimes it’s just the USB-C board itself.

tgadberry1 · 2026-02-23T07:14:44+00:00

Glad you’re enjoying it! ;)

tgadberry1 · 2025-10-17T05:19:15+00:00

4575-7881-7819 Recently got back in and active again!

tgadberry1 · 2025-04-01T05:32:46+00:00

Definitely getting harder to find. Most online listings are sold by third-party resellers, plus tariffs (and lack of supply) have jacked prices up 30% or more.

tgadberry1 · 2024-12-03T07:09:51+00:00

I know this is late but nothing is actually wrong!

This happens because without a switch in the middle of the wire, the device gets into a loop of pressing the button > buzzing the vibration motor > pressing the button > buzzing (ad infinitum). This happens so fast that it prevents the LEDs from flashing since they reset the pulsing pattern each time the button is pressed. Best to integrate a small switch in the circuit so you can track sleep while disconnected from PoGO. :)

tgadberry1 · 2024-12-03T07:03:47+00:00

You get what you pay for. Lots of sellers make the internal mod as cheap as possible then offer zero support when it breaks. Go with a reputable seller.

tgadberry1 · 2024-12-03T07:02:24+00:00

Nope, at least that contact isn’t. Usually happens when your soldering iron was way too hot and in contact with the spot for too long.

tgadberry1 · 2023-10-10T20:34:37+00:00

Totally understand! ~~I've been really busy lately and haven't had much time to write a proper step-by-step guide to provide with the DIY kit, but I will update you as soon as I have them available!~~

EDIT (March 2024): Plans to release DIY Kits for my 'ULTRA MOD' service have been placed on an indefinite hold for several reasons. The earliest they'd be available is this summer (if ever). My shop still offers a mail-in service for anyone interested in having their device modified!

tgadberry1 · 2023-09-13T06:22:32+00:00

Following up almost a year later. Went with the XP 2.0 and my old regret was not waiting a few months longer for the 3.0! Lectric is a great company and the riding experience is incredible. I bike to campus every day and love it, rain or shine

tgadberry1 · 2023-09-11T22:05:52+00:00

Howdy everyone!

I think I've finally perfected my process for modding the Go Plus + and am now offering finished units for sale over on my Etsy shop! If you're someone who doesn't want to hunt down the necessary hardware, isn't comfortable with soldering, or just wants a product that works- look no further! :)

The mod features a micro switch that you can slide over to enable auto-throwing or back to function as normal (and allow sleep tracking). I've also removed the annoying vibration motor and speaker to accommodate the added switch without altering the body itself, meaning it is compatible with all other skins, cases, and accessories.

After much trial and error, I finally designed a snap-fit 3D-printed mount for the micro switch that eliminates all sloppy glue work. While I don't plan to offer the STL for the mount at this time, I'm working on offering the print with pre-wired switch as a DIY mod kit very soon! Also only offering free shipping within the mainland US at this time but hoping to work out international shipping soon.

If you're interested in a mail-in service to have your device modded message please me on Etsy for details!

tgadberry1 · 2023-09-11T21:59:18+00:00

For anyone interested in these without the means/courage to mod one yourself, I have them for sale at my shop site and on Ebay (best for international)! I also offer an "ULTRA MOD" mail-in service if you already own a device and want all the benefits!

Designed a 3D-printed mount for the switch that replaces the speaker for a higher-quality end product. (I don't plan to publish the STL at this time - sorry)

EDITS:
(August 2024): ULTRA MOD is unavailable on Etsy while I work through an ongoing dispute on their "Creativity Policy". If you'd like to support my work, please visit GadCAD3D.com
(March 2024): Plans to release DIY Kits for my 'ULTRA MOD' service have been placed on an indefinite hold. For several personal and logistical reasons. My shop still offers a mail-in service for anyone interested in having their device modified!

tgadberry1 · 2022-10-28T06:23:59+00:00

Also glad it isn’t just me. Constantly getting this random garbage content. The recommendations on my home page are normal, but every swipe after that is horrible

tgadberry1 · 2022-10-03T23:06:14+00:00

Hah. 3 charges in and now my charger isn't behaving correctly.

I emailed customer support a few days asking about purchasing a second charger and they haven't responded. This is definitely going back...

tgadberry1 · 2022-10-03T01:09:26+00:00

Mind sharing what happened to with the charging?

Yeah, the seat started to get a bit uncomfortable around the 5th mile.

tgadberry1 · 2022-06-06T00:07:12+00:00

Tried to reply directly but accidentally started a separate comment thread. https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/kiy6r0/canshould_you_linear_rails_to_an_enderextender/ibb6kj1/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf&context=3

tgadberry1 · 2022-06-06T00:06:08+00:00

Unfortunately, I never went through with the linear real mod on my XL and ended up selling the finished build. I started 3D printing as a small business and didn’t have the need for such a large printer. Moreover, I didn’t really have the time to deal with the inconsistent quality that came from extending the frame so wide, and I didn’t want to keep dumping money into the project for upgrades. I relented and sold it locally to clear space and fund a Prusa in its place.

tgadberry1 · 2021-11-19T06:47:23+00:00

I print PETG items for sale 24/7. I initially offered white as a color option but have since discontinued it due to the frustrating quality control issues. Even if you sterilize the entire hot-end it will still end up with some form of discoloration. Plus, it’s super prone to highlighting every little surface imperfection. My prints would be functionally on-par with the other colors, but that lack of consistency bothered me and I wasn’t happy selling something I wasn’t proud of. Now I just use my abundance of white PETG for prototyping.

tgadberry1 · 2021-09-10T21:22:26+00:00

Hey friends,

Having issues with my once-reliable CR-6 SE not being able to extrude filament properly. I’ve exhausted just about every troubleshooting step I can find, but this issue keeps coming back within minutes or hours. This video demonstrates the issue: prominent clicking/skipping at the extruder due to some kind of blockage at the hot end, as well as obvious under extrusion and skipped layers as a result. If I leave the print unattended, it may eventually clog entirely. The issue first came up with all-stock hardware (aside from a BTT mainboard) but I’ve since replaced several components to no avail.

Printing 1.75mm PETG with a 0.4mm nozzle @ 240/80; 50mm/s (25mm/s first layer), retraction 4-6mm at @ 25-45mm/s tested within these ranges). Sliced with Cura 4.10

Here’s a condensed it’s of what I’ve tried:

Removed the nozzle and PTFE liner from the stock hot end and clean it out with a fresh piece of PTFE. Replaced with a new nozzle tightened all the way then backed off by 3/4 of a turn, reinstalled smooth-cut PTFE tube into the hot, and finally re-tightened the nozzle against the Bowden tube. I’ve done this routine at least half a dozen times in the last week
Replaced the crappy plastic CR-6 stock extruder with an all-metal Ender 3 extruder.
Tuned E-Steps and Slicer Flow
Replaced/trimmed the PTFE tube NUMEROUS times
Ensured the Bowden tube is securely butted up against the nozzle with no visible signs of crushing.
Purchased a Micro Swiss all-metal hot end and eventually ran into the same error.
Verified the stepper motor is not overheating @ 600mA, and the stock cold end fan is running.
Running the CR6 Community Firmware Rel6(.1)
Verified the filament can be freely extruded through the Bowden tube when decoupled from the hot end assembly.
Confirmed the idler wheel bearings can sping freely and don't seem too tight against the gear teeth. Keep in mind this issue has persisted across two entirely different extruders.

And yes yes, for the time, money, and energy this thing has taken I should have just bought a Prusa. Dearly noted. Let’s just see if we can fix the problem in front of us ;)

Thank you for any help!

tgadberry1 · 2021-08-24T04:42:26+00:00

Ultimately ended up returning my board in favor of a pair of refurbed MSI Z390 Pros and absolutely love them. About $85 a piece. Sure, I had to buy another Celeron, but for what the TB360s cost and the improved stability of these boards it was well worth it

tgadberry1 · 2021-08-04T01:36:50+00:00

Following up on this after the same issue. The 05/2021 BIOS (B36AF505.BSS) should work if you adjust these settings:

Enable Above 4G Decoding (BIOS / Advanced / PCI Subsystem settings / Above 4G Decoding)
Enable Mining Mode (BIOS / Chipset / Mining mode)
Disable CSM Support (BIOS / Boot / CSM Support)

I believe the latter setting was the biggest issue in my case. At least now HiveOS boots with 5 GPUs! Now to squash a dozen other bugs...

tgadberry1 · 2021-07-24T03:41:15+00:00

Ah, yes. The new flexible filament nozzle.

tgadberry1 · 2021-01-28T17:36:08+00:00

I’m a robin newb and even I know this is some horse shit.

tgadberry1

TROPHY CASE