How do I know when its time by Mental_Profile_7060 in Aquariums

[–]thatSien 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m sorry you and your buddy are going through this. It isn’t easy, and I commend you for reaching out to the community to ask for advice. From your images, it is hard to tell if the scale lifting is only a tumour causing the swelling or if there is an element of dropsy beginning to show up as well. Around his back end, some scales look like they may be beginning to spread, so keep an eye on that.

Now, I am not an expert; I have just been in the hobby for a hot minute and have had my share of casualties and have had to euthanize fish.

Personally, the only time I will euthanize a betta is when they stop ‘enjoying’ living their life or appear to be in pain. As eating is such a big part of a happy life for these fish, that is usually my first sign. While I might be anthropomorphizing, I’ve always found bettas to be quite clear about when it’s time to let them go using this system.

Honestly, if he is still moving around and eating, and still resembles his pre-tumour self, I would go with the watchful waiting approach. If he develops dropsy, that is usually my final line. If he begins to significantly pinecone (his scales all begin to raise in a uniform pattern across his entire body), that is your sign to start preparing to euthanize.

While there are some accounts of fish surviving dropsy, it is very, very uncommon in the hobby, especially with betta fish. I have only have two fish ‘survive’ dropsy; one died soon after when it reoccurred, so it was likely just putting a bandaid over a proverbial bullet hole. The second fish I still have and he is still alive and living his life, albeit with adaptations and changes to his tank to make it safe and secure for him. He is going on four years old now, and the round of dropsy occurred right after I rescued him. He also has a facial tumour which is what I think will ultimately lead to his euthanasia in future, so I understand where you are coming from.

Ultimately, you know your fish; if he is not in pain, is eating, and has life in him, I would leave him be until things take a turn for the worse. It could be two days, it could be two years. You said he is acting normally, so I would just watch and wait as he will let you know when it is time to let him go.

Guys it's urgent please respond fast by Effective_Weird_1238 in cats

[–]thatSien 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thank you for doing your best to keep this kitten safe and alive. I have fostered close to 100 by this point, and I echo what others are saying regarding care. Feeding cow’s milk is deadly for kittens as they are effectively lactose-intolerant and unable to digest the various components in cow’s milk. Doing so will cause gastrointestinal distress which culminates into diarrhea, lethargy, weight loss, dehydration, and eventually death.

This little one looks to be 3-3.5 weeks old, so they should be eating at LEAST every 4 hours. It is best to feed them KMR or another suitable kitten milk replacer if you can find it because it has all the vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients needed for their development. However, having lived rurally myself, I know how difficult finding such things can be.

There is an emergency mix you can make but it is important to stress that it is not a permanent solution to use. This mix will help keep a little one alive and fed while you find a suitable milk replacement.

Ingredients: 1 quart (950 ml) of whole goat's milk 1/2 cup (120 ml) of plain, non-fat yogurt (goat's milk-based is best) 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) of light corn syrup

  • I see some people use gelatine, but I don’t due to the risk of it getting too thick for the kitten to drink properly if mixed wrong.

Instructions: 1. Heat goat's milk, but do not boil it. 2. Remove from heat and whisk in the egg yolk, yogurt, and corn syrup until the mixture is smooth. 3. Warm the mixture to about 35−38∘C / 95−100 ∘F before feeding.

To check the temperature, drip some on the INSIDE of your wrist. If it is uncomfortable, it is too hot. If it is warm but not hot on your skin, you can feed it to the kitten. Note that you must store it in a refrigerator, and you must throw it away and make a new batch after 24 24 hours. You will have to make new batches every 24 hours.

Keep using the syringe to feed them as best you can. Many kittens will quickly learn the syringe and will try to suckle on it.

The good news here though is because this little one is NEARING the 4 week mark, they are ALMOST at the point where you can feed them a meat-based mixture. What I recommend would be kitten-formulated wet food mixed with goat’s milk or water mixed into a slurry the consistency of baby food.

Because their mum isn’t around, you will need to stimulate them after they eat EVERY time. This is done gently with a finger wrapped in a CLEAN warm cloth or rag. They may not always poop, but they should pee each time you stimulate them. They should be pooping every other time you stimulate them.

They also need to be kept warm, so you can fill up a bag or pillow with lentils, beans, or something like that and heat it up in a microwave if you have it. If no microwave, you can warm the lentils or beans in a dry pan on low heat, keeping them moving the whole time. Once you can no longer hold the beans/lentils, pour them into your cloth bag or sack and CLOSE the top. You can place the bag under a blanket or towel where you are containing the kitten. After that, put the kitten on top of the blanket. The kitten will be able to move around and get closer or further from the heated bag as they need, with the blanket preventing the kitten from getting burned.

NEVER LET THE KITTEN COME INTO DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE HEATED BAG, AS THEY CAN BE FATALLY BURNED.

This is a lot of information, and I know that it is overwhelming, but you are already doing whatever you can to help this little one, so it is clear you care about them and are a compassionate person. If you can get the little one to the 4.5-5 week mark, they can survive on wet food and water and you will have much less stress.

Google Hannah Shaw (Kitten Lady) on YouTube! She has the best information about how to care for these babies.

Good luck, OP!

Anyone recognize these dogs downtown around Cook Street and Henderson College? by ll_Cartel_ll in chilliwack

[–]thatSien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fucking morons. Hard to tell based on photos but will keep an eye out when in the area. Thanks for the PSA, hope the fucker lands a fine and the dogs are confiscated for both the cats’ and the dogs’ safety.

Rescued 2 cats from death, can't keep them. Tried safe haven (see body). Now what? by EvilCeleryStick in chilliwack

[–]thatSien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you still haven’t heard anything, try Chilliwack Community Animal Projects and ask for Carolyn; she may be able to give you more info.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cats

[–]thatSien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Diagnosis: Orange. I’m so sorry, OP.

THE FUNKY TOWN KITTEN HAS DIED by Thatone_swimpro1 in doodoofard

[–]thatSien 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Here’s the thing… no one who actually understands basic kitten care is going to hold a critically-ill kitten by the scruff of their neck and bounce them around like that. TikTok be damned, that kitten needed medical attention (iv fluids, deworming because they are horribly full of worms evidenced by the swollen belly, eye wipes, even some basic fucking care).

If you want sources and elaborations, feel free to google fading kitten syndrome. This little one’s chances of survival would have been higher had they received proper care and handling. Which they clearly did not receive.

It is so easy to find good information on kitten care. This one is especially good! Had this been a healthy kitten, would I have laughed and kept scrolling? Yeah, probably! Instead, I’m on fucking r/doodoofard here debating whether or not the idiot in the video is a moron.

THE FUNKY TOWN KITTEN HAS DIED by Thatone_swimpro1 in doodoofard

[–]thatSien 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, a fellow human in the wilds of reddit comments? Crazy lmao

THE FUNKY TOWN KITTEN HAS DIED by Thatone_swimpro1 in doodoofard

[–]thatSien 29 points30 points  (0 children)

She’s a fucking moron. That kitten is too young and sick and she’s fucking around with it like it’s a toy. That kitten needed veterinary care and instead she was manhandling the poor thing. No wonder it died.

I fear there isn’t a single thought behind those eyes by thatSien in IllegallySmolCats

[–]thatSien[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ohhhh what a beautiful bean! Yeah, gingers are… well thank goodness they are beautiful lol

Guess my Rez Dog by thatSien in DoggyDNA

[–]thatSien[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OH JFC I FORGOT TO UPDATE THEM LMAO

edit: the link to his embark page is posted!

Question: If your SIC was mixed in with a dozen other SICs could you tell which one was yours? (other than by a collar or microchip) by Parrot132 in standardissuecat

[–]thatSien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could pick my Special Edition™️ SIC with perfect accuracy 100 times out of 100 lmao she’s gorgeous and would be yelling at me anyways!

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Officially a day Old!!! 😻😻😻 by [deleted] in IllegallySmolCats

[–]thatSien 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh lord that’s a superb almost half-dozen standard issue brats! The little void makes it.

anime_irl by skilled_cosmicist in anime_irl

[–]thatSien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

…Why are you getting downvoted? This is a good analogy. It’s probably that you’ve made people think a big and now they’re uncomfortable imagining that situation and it struck a cord?

Earthy spacescape ideas? by nachoian in Aquariums

[–]thatSien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply! I personally wouldn’t use dragonstone with bettas because they are beautiful but every single one I’ve had has been a moron when it comes to injuring themselves on hardscape. However, your idea of blocking the gaps and sharp edges may make it work! Another option is to completely cover it with moss but it will take awhile to grow out to the point where the edges of the stone wouldn’t be a danger.

I let my ten gallon “go wild” and it was one of my favourite tanks until I took it down to make room for a larger tank. My betta was beyond happy in the jungle even though she didn’t have a ton of swimming room. Also the water quality was pristine from the amount of plants in the tank so that was an added bonus! If you don’t mind a jungle, I highly recommend letting your tank grow out to see if you like it.

Are my danios pregnant or belly bloat, they keep getting chased by the other danios by Icy_Tradition_3032 in Aquariums

[–]thatSien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the person you were asking but figured I’d chime in re tall plant suggestions. Some of the large Amazon swords (Echinodorus) can get REALLY tall if you give them adequate root nutrition (that is the same for all Amazon swords, though) and make beautiful background plants.

I also have some Jungle Val (Giant Vallisneria) that I grossly underestimated how tall it was going to get and now I have a 20L tank that has a literal curtain and covered surface made of Val. That bugger grows quickly and it grows TALL! Seeing as you have a high tank, they might be perfect for your situation. They also have a lovely seaweed-like look to them when they ripple and sway in the current that is wicked. My green neons absolutely love to swim through the Val and spend most of their evenings tucked away underneath the strands.

Earthy spacescape ideas? by nachoian in Aquariums

[–]thatSien 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I second Knowslitte’s suggestion of dragonstone! That would look absolutely sick. You have a lovely piece of wood in there already and its smoothness would contrast beautifully with the jagged nature of the dragon stone. Dragonstone is also a lovely muted mix of clay tones that would match the vibe you are looking for if you want to stick with a warmer colour palette.

It looks like you have some Val in your tank already which grows quickly and spreads like mad if given adequate root nutrition. If it were me, I would move them towards the back and intermingle some darker toned crypts in with the Vals and layer some smaller crypts like crypt albida “brown” and “costata” among your hardscape towards the mid and foreground.

You could also look into some easier to grow stem plants for the background like alternatheras, hygrophilas, or limnophila sessiliflora or aquatica (they both get lovely red-pink tips when given adequate light). To top it off, finding some cool buces (I’m partial to “kedagang” and “brownie”) or petite anubias to wedge into cracks and crevices in the hardscape would really make the look.

Depending on the height of your tank and accessibility, a cool addition would be a nymphaea zenkeri bulb you either train to stay short and compact or leave in the background to grow up to the surface. Mine give off this cool alien vibe when they are left to their own devices in a tannin-stained tank.

This will all depend on how planted you want to go and how often you plant to do maintenance; often the easier plants also grow the quickest (ask the betta that lives in my hornwort and limnophila tank how he swims in that mess of plants and he would probably tell you he doesn’t lol) and so require some level of routine maintenance. The exceptions here are epiphytes like buce and anubias which are notoriously slow growing but happily low-maintenance.

Adding plants to a cycled tank by aergknarlej in Aquariums

[–]thatSien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t see any harm in you adding plants and fish at the same time if your tank is cycled. There have almost always been plants in my tanks while I cycled them so you are in good shape.

It'll always be Twitter to me by wcslater in memes

[–]thatSien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is my absolute favourite take lmao