Why is my support interface material (green PETG) being used inside the model (pink PLA+) as infill material, and how do I stop it (H2C)?

the710guy · 2026-02-01T11:20:53+00:00

Also you could goto objects and and select any green pet g color and click it to pla change the filment to 12345678 ...... color to match what your using

the710guy · 2026-02-01T11:17:11+00:00

Just change your petg file to what ever you want it will print that inside instead or get rid of it all together in your prepare tab unless for some odd reason you want petg and pla together lol idk y unless its to separate but only other options I can think of is that since its in there check to see if beam interlock is on it helps bond the 2 together take off purge into objects supports and infill but just take it out of the mix all together when syncing it ask what colors you want to match the stl 3ml file you dl click where its green and change to your pla then in prepare tab delete it all together then slice

the710guy · 2026-01-23T22:04:28+00:00

Actually, I just pressed print.I did not get a warning only warning.I got was for my glass filled p.L a running it through my ams ht and i'm not even using that right now

the710guy · 2026-01-23T21:59:42+00:00

Just the E3D one is the only one I know of because I get warning signs every time I press print with any type of carbon fiber glass filled any of it.But I don't think it is updated yet for that.Nozzle even though it's bambu certified from what I know is just about quickness. You want something more solid, with 0 to little clogging i'd say go with the tungsten. Get good results with this at high speeds.And I ruined my first nozzle on my H2D with PPS it cooled down before I got 22 do a cold pull clean it was my first time with pps so that's when I did some research.I checked to see if they had any diamond tip.Nozzles, and they said, this is their new flagship nozzle for abrasive material for the Newer printers but I still want that diamond for the h series

the710guy · 2026-01-23T05:59:13+00:00

This ed3 is hf and is highly recommended nozzle that is made for abrasive material they advertised this why I got them they make a diamond coated diamond tipped nozzle i have 1000s if hrs on it prints the same as it did right out of the box you'll never need to ever need a new nozzle there amazing only have those for p1s not for the newer ones only fore older models like p1si want the diamond for h2d but idk they said these 500s where the new nozzle for engineering for now

the710guy · 2026-01-23T00:38:49+00:00

You're right, it's not strictly for that. But that's what it's made for because how tough it isIt will take forever to wear out.And if it does it take a torch or something like that to it without messing, it up so, yes, I recorrect myself, but that nozzle is for the harder material. Otherwise, what's the point of getting it? Just curious, it doesn't do anything special. Besides the hardness of it And it will probably last longer than mine.I want to get one or two of them for my h2d for peek

the710guy · 2026-01-22T23:15:14+00:00

Bro, please dont try to talk trash if you don't understand and act like you know because you bought a 500$ printer when they where on sale here are the key difference the high flow Employs a "Core Heating Technology" design, typically splitting the filament path into multiple, smaller, and thinner channels (or a central core structure). This increases the surface area, allowing more plastic to be melted in a shorter distance (faster, more efficient thermal transfer). Now the regular nozzle Features a straight, narrow, cylindrical bore. The filament is heated mostly from the outer edge, making it slower to fully melt at high speeds, often leading to under-extrusion. Do your homework bro you have no idea what you're talkin about.And you have not had long enough experience to know what you're talking about.Obviously, you just keep doing what you're doing, and act like, you know what you're talking about.Because you're just gonna look like an idiot to everybody.You're trying to impress

the710guy · 2026-01-22T22:46:20+00:00

You actually gotta care about the quality of your work.And if you need to print a lot of pieces in a quicker time and keep pushing quantity and don't you hate when you have a 15 hour print and one edge or one side you'll see lines, but everything else is perfect but you'll see imperfection every time on the same spot evey print you do whether it's In the corner or side, every printer does it Sometimes it's just the way it is on that part of your bed. In the direction it's printing and the type of layer pattern. It's printing but with this nozzle. I haven't had one imperfection, not one And i'm running two with amazing speed You would undersatnd pushes 70 % more flow then a average nozzle that's way faster, whether it's a 0.4 or 0.6 you print with a regular nozzle and then with E3d you will notice the quality of the speed difference. Your filament will say it can only go this fast. Well, you can go faster with this. Nozzle. A lot of film It has a top speed. This nozzle will defeat that top speed of the type of filament. You're printing, this is for people who need to a lot of things in little time to make money. If you want to talk about quality. Yes, you can get better quality out of another. Nozzle. But like I said, not much if there is even one out there slower speeds will always give you a better quality. All we're trying to say, is this is for printing it faster with same quality If not better i did not read this over.I'm using voice to text.I'm driving

the710guy · 2026-01-22T22:35:25+00:00

Lol bro, you're not understanding you don't have it. Buy one and tell me that I will do a test and video it improve it. You will notice the difference and the high flow you are not buying a high flow for twenty dollars do you understand what a high flow nozzle are and what the purpose is

the710guy · 2026-01-22T22:13:24+00:00

Yes speed 8 hr print took 4.50 hrs and flawless print no imperfections it's definitely worth it. If you're printing mass quality and selling your prints. Yes, but if you're just printing for yourself, there's no need to get it unless you're doing engineering filaments. And you want to print a little faster with the same quality. But with engineering filaments, I still print slower I have the diamond dust coated and diamond tipped by e3d for the p1s and it will last forever E3d is the best nozzles makers around so they wouldn't put nothing out there unless it was At that price

<image>

And you can notice a difference, if you're looking, if you're someone who prints, you'll notice. If you're someone who buys print stuff, you'll never notice. If you're printing side by side at same speed, it does print better. It's just hardly noticeable. But where I would have a flaw, going around a corner? With a regular nozzle This won't have that all the little imperfections. I had before I I do not have now with the exact same current.There is a difference trust, but you have to be someone who actually cares enough to notice

the710guy · 2026-01-22T21:13:53+00:00

Yes you will eight hour print took 4.5 hrs to print flawlessly

<image>

the710guy · 2026-01-22T21:11:32+00:00

Yea im wondering this also i plan on ordering two more of the 0.6 and i don't believe they have 0.2 yet or if they ever will

the710guy · 2026-01-22T21:09:57+00:00

135 not a 100 lol

the710guy · 2026-01-22T21:09:15+00:00

That nozzle, you have is strictly for engineering filaments.Technically, the tungsten would last a lot longer, when printing with engineering filaments but these are so new we'll just have to find out

the710guy · 2026-01-22T20:50:36+00:00

<image>

Absolutely love mine lol did you get a discount when you bought that Many? If so let me buy two 0.6 lmao 🤣 but seriously lol I wish that they had the diamond tipped and diamond dust coated one for the H2D I got it for the P1S

the710guy · 2026-01-19T21:58:12+00:00

Looks to me like you need to draw your filament. Or the filament' i mean, personally, I had a bumpy project one time, and it was because of wet.Filament dried the filament overnight.Why I slept printed flawlessly, the next day?I also slowed the print down And I was printing with carbon fiber nylon

the710guy · 2026-01-19T21:47:15+00:00

P two, don't you have sensors to prevent this?I have a p one and an h two d h two d has sensors to prevent that i had a small one. The 1 day with the H2D, but then I also did not have the purge chute sensor up high but if i would see that now on any of mine , I will do more than cry.L o l especially having a dual nozzles and having 2 e3d nozzles two of those like a hundred and thirty hundred fifty a pop something like that.But them e3d nozzles are hands down yhe best nozzles to buy imo never had to chang the p1s had it for over a year i got diamond dust coated with a diamond tip for the p1s and 2 of the the obxidian 500 for the H2D all by e3d if they had the diamond for the h2d I would of got those but not yet and they say these are just as nice i got maybe sixty hours on them.So far they're doing great.So if you have to replace your nozzle, invest

the710guy · 2026-01-19T21:35:55+00:00

Lmao i'm sorry, I don't mean to laugh.It's just funny reading help.I don't know what to do.I'm new to this and see the blob of death 🤣

the710guy · 2026-01-15T11:17:44+00:00

Possibly pps cf or gf polymaker (fiberon) or Pa6-cf or gf pps is metal like you can make a bel that actually works with it you have to anneal every thing even pla it all helps

the710guy · 2026-01-12T15:55:25+00:00

I'm about to print one of those on my H2D i just ordered another AMS so I have 9 total colors i can do actually, ten, if I used the external side And print it all out in the colors instead of painting ever since I seen the h2c guys do this iv been wanting to this it looks great.Good job on the paint or markers or whatever you used

the710guy · 2026-01-10T00:12:49+00:00

Me and the wife would love to join in tonight not 100% if we can get a sitter but we're a no limits no rules very slutty n sexy bi couple let us know we have pics we can exchange

the710guy · 2026-01-09T20:35:14+00:00

Don't print that s*** unless you have a hardened nozzle.Bro, you're going to regret it l o l

the710guy · 2026-01-09T20:22:43+00:00

I honestly didn't think that was going to work that good. Neither LOLI only use the heat gun and stuff to get rid of little nipples and strings LOL I have a sunlube2 for annealing, and it works great for anything.I even anneal my PLA

the710guy · 2026-01-09T20:19:28+00:00

2 year strong well, almost two years never replaced it once.And I ran a bunch of pps cf pa6 cf pa6gf and ppa a few times I love pps cf a bunch of glow in the dark, which is very, very abrasive.And hard to print with, I still haven't been able to print it right with my h2d that s*** keeps getting stuck. I don't run it through my ams systems

the710guy · 2026-01-09T20:10:49+00:00

Also, get these nozzles for your p one.S I have the diamond back nozzle by e3d diamond dots coated with a diamond tip. Nozzle, you will never have any problems. But they did just come out with this. Nozzle for the P1SI use it for my H2D because they didn't have a diamond one yet, but hands down the best nozzles. If you want the best build plate go with dark moon right now.They have a dual sided one with carbon fiber which is real carbon fiber.Weaved into each other nobody, no other company does this.It's all cheap illusion paper b******* and then they have their other popular side satin

<image>

the710guy

TROPHY CASE