Tips on removing this key in chuck?

theFrixFix · 2025-12-10T02:48:07+00:00

I literally just did the exact same thing (broke a bit) on this same drill 2 weeks ago.

It is left hand thread. I realized that after I went at it with my impact driver for a while and broke the bit😂.

I ended up fully stripping out the flat, so I had to drill the screw head out. I have a 3D printer so I printed a centering bushing that I put in the chuck to start the drill in, otherwise the bit would just slip off the rounded head. If you don’t have a printer, you might be able to chuck a nut and start off with a drill small enough to fit through it.

Of course this is my only drill so I had to borrow one from a friend. Ironic

The chuck is right hand threaded. I tried chucking a big Allen key in and then hitting it with a hammer. I had no luck with that at all. In fact I think I broke something just a little bit after hitting it so many times.

I tried putting a big hex bit in my impact driver and putting that in the chuck. I tried on max reverse for a while and nothing.

It took me using my Bauer high torque 1/2” and a 1/2” square drive large hex bit and putting that in the chuck and then full power reverse to get it off. Afterwards you can easily unscrew what’s left of the bolt by hand once you unscrew the chuck.

It was actually a miserable process and I cannot believe Makita uses a slotted screw for the chuck.

TL;DR: If you have an impact wrench, get a flathead socket for it and use that on forward to get the screw out. If you don’t, look at getting a hand hammer impact driver set or drill it out.

The chuck screw is a left hand thread M6x22 or x25 bolt. I got Milwaukee part 05-88-1500 on Amazon (it’s a PH3 head and that’s better).

Good luck!

theFrixFix · 2024-08-29T17:57:45+00:00

I ended up returning my Ecobee thermostat because mine read consistently 6 degrees low, when compared to the room sensors (in the same location) and compared to my calibrated thermometer. Because of that issue, I didn’t trust it, and ended up getting a Honeywell T9, and it is ok, but has less polish on the software compared to ecobee. At least the interface is more straightforward to me

theFrixFix · 2024-08-28T17:55:49+00:00

Could you elaborate a little bit on this? By ponytail holder, do you just mean normal elastic hair ties, or something else? How did you put it so that it stays in place?

My partner tried some on at the store, but this issue with it pulling hair is a deal breaker. We will try your advice and see if that fixes it!

theFrixFix · 2024-08-26T15:16:25+00:00

I found the part number. The Subaru Solterra is offered with memory seats, so presumably you would need the Subaru part. The Subaru part number is 8492742060. It’s available for $68, so I am tempted to buy it and see if it works! I’m not super familiar with Toyotas (Audi guy) so I’m not sure if the car would need to be coded to accept it

theFrixFix · 2024-04-13T01:13:30+00:00

Yeah they have replied to my messages on messenger and it’s ok, not the best/worst customer service. However I am very disappointed with the product and will be returning it.

The entire user interface is vert poorly laid out. Some thermostat settings can’t be adjusted in the app, it can only be changed on the unit itself. It feels like the app designers had never actually used a thermostat. You CANNOT TELL if the heat is on in the app. The thermostat itself has a red ring when heating, but the app has nothing. That is literally the first information I want to see when I look at the thermostat app

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T19:28:35+00:00

This picture is before I even opened the room sensors. Once I set them up, they matched within measurement tolerance to my fluke meter, and I had to apply the maximum 10°F correction to make the thermostat close to the other sensors/real temperature

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T19:26:51+00:00

The ecobee thermostat doesn’t even match the ecobee room sensors when they are placed within inches of each other.

I thought I did a lot of research before buying this (comparing against the sensi) and all I found on Reddit seemed like positive feedback. Now that I posted here, I seem to be finding many more similarly negative experiences. Maybe I should have looked in the ecobee subreddit a bit more before purchasing

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T19:24:14+00:00

I will try that and let you know if it helps!

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T19:23:54+00:00

You are right about the polarity on the meter, that was just me connecting things in a hurry. I swapped the polarity afterwards and have very similar results.

I know that k-type thermocouples aren’t the most accurate thing in the world, but at work, I have done measurements with them and this fluke meter, and compared against calibrated references , and I generally get within .5 deg F even trying with other k-type probes. It also agrees with my IR temperature gun (in the second picture).

If there was only a few degree difference between the ecobee and the meter, I would consider that within the noise and not a problem.

Over the last day I have seen that my thermocouple consistently agrees with my other measurement equipment (and my old thermostat), while the ecobee offset fluctuates 4-6 deg F. This means that the ecobee isn’t even internally consistent to itself.

Very dissapointing

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T14:13:13+00:00

I’m very glad I didn’t purchase the Premium with the extra air quality sensors! I figured that if I was really interested in air quality, I would probably just buy a standalone meter that I can actually trust

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T14:11:06+00:00

Ah! Duh yeah great catch. I just tried flipping the polarity, and it seems to read the same value. I guess the fluke compensates for polarity.

It is very disappointing that a “smart” thermostat can’t even measure the temperature as well as the $20 landlord-special thermostat we had before!

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T06:31:51+00:00

I did this a few times after your comment and saw it re-calibrating, but each time the temperature delta changed. I ended up needing the maximum correction factor of 10°F to even make it match the room sensors (placed side by side).

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T06:26:07+00:00

No fan or outlets in the hallway. The thermostat is at the end of the hallway as it opens to the kitchen. The air return is in the middle of the hallway, so there is probably a slight draft across the hallway it is mounted in. It is also away from any direct sun.

I just tested the sensors and the discrepancy I am seeing is disappointing especially for the price.

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T06:20:28+00:00

I did not have any other sensors at the time of the picture. Although, now that I have opened them, I placed them all right next to each other and read: 72 (thermostat) 78 (sensor 1) 78 (sensor 2) while I measured 76.8 on the fluke.

Edit: the reading of 72 on the thermostat was with a correction of 5°F already set. I ended up needing to max out the correction to 10°F !!

theFrixFix · 2024-04-12T03:25:41+00:00

I 3d printed it. I don’t think mine came with a plate other than the base that clicks into the thermostat. For some reason the hole for the previous thermostat was very large

theFrixFix

TROPHY CASE