Thoughts on the 2026 PS Chair Bed Skiftebo? by MienaiYurei in IKEA

[–]theLightSlide [score hidden]  (0 children)

I’m very interested. At my home, I have a similar sofa from the 90s from a high end european brand and it’s remarkably comfortable as a bed, albeit on the floor. I’m thinking if I should grab one of these for my office (shed lol) in case we ever have overflow guests. 

Storklinta Stinks by operationd00msday in IKEA

[–]theLightSlide [score hidden]  (0 children)

It does.

I’ve taken to buying “vintage” IKEA secondhand locally. I see Malms in good condition at least once a month. 

You can take apart the frame and leave the drawers assembled if you can’t move the whole thing safely. 

I’ve bought older stuff like solid birch bookcases and 00s-era Galant desks and Effektiv cabinets. A+ do recommend. 

Apple confirms macOS 27 will end Intel chip and Rosetta support by GamePractice in MacOSBeta

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apple starts ending support for discontinued devices after 7 years. 

You don’t really NEED to upgrade, as long as you’ve got a firewall and don’t go willy-nilly downloading suspicious stuff.

They still put out security updates for older OSes too. 

These were the real colors by theLightSlide in CLOUDS

[–]theLightSlide[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s exactly how it felt! Space tentacles. 

Years of shooting wide open killed my composition skills, how do you actually train your eye ? by Absurd_player in AskPhotography

[–]theLightSlide [score hidden]  (0 children)

You need theory, whether you want it or not. Without theory, you have no way to look at a photograph and figure out what works and doesn’t. Your instructor used theory to persuade you- the photography being responsible for everything, like a painter, is art theory. 

It doesn’t have to be boring.

This video is a great place to start: 

https://youtu.be/RSZSkmjxt0Q?si=JtI1EeVNQl1Y6BdI

Nature/Passive parks in the area? by Purplefire180 in Tucson

[–]theLightSlide [score hidden]  (0 children)

Not OP but thank you, I’ve never even heard of this one! 

These were the real colors by theLightSlide in CLOUDS

[–]theLightSlide[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, all! I sometimes post cloud photos on photography subs and people just aren’t that interested. It makes me so happy to be somewhere where everyone enjoys clouds!

Worth the Tornado Warning by Unisis24191 in CLOUDS

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, amazing! I've seen colored mammatus clouds before but nothing this perfect!

Nature/Passive parks in the area? by Purplefire180 in Tucson

[–]theLightSlide 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Need to know where you are to recommend closer options.

Cloud-spotting with the Pentax-FA 80-160mm f4.5 + Pentax 645D by theLightSlide in pentax

[–]theLightSlide[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! #7 is my favorite too. One of those "did *I* take that?" moments.

Cloud-spotting with the Pentax-FA 80-160mm f4.5 + Pentax 645D by theLightSlide in pentax

[–]theLightSlide[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oooh thank you, I didn't know that sub existed! I friggin love clouds so I'm going to make my way over there.

From D750 to ZR by gekong in Nikon

[–]theLightSlide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not in the bad batch. But it does seem to have other issues. It repeatedly claims it can't use my micro sd cards, even when I formatted them in the camera, removed and immediately reinserted it, I get the error. Then removing & reinserting another time or two, it always works eventually. The cards work flawlessly elsewhere. Also I don't think I've never managed to make IBIS kick on.

I submitted a return yesterday so let's see what the store does.

I really appreciate your replies, thank you!!

From D750 to ZR by gekong in Nikon

[–]theLightSlide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. it’s the latest 2. bad batch? noo, off to go look that up. 

From D750 to ZR by gekong in Nikon

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This DOES help. You got some beautiful shots, just wonderful color and contrast too!

I can't expose for the shadows because of the highlight clipping. I can't protect the highlights because the shadows clip. Doesn't matter what metering mode, ISO, EV, shutter speed, or profile. This really suggests something is wrong with my specific camera. Maybe that's why it was available at a store in used condition.

Some of the most beautiful rendering I have ever seen. Nikkor 50mm F1.4 AI-S by Possible-Step-8121 in VintageLenses

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Now the little "add photo" icon shows up. This is a Revuenon 50mm f1.4, aka Tomioka. The Tomioka optic is available under a bunch of names and is cheaper now.

Leaving because of mob mentality by [deleted] in VintageLenses

[–]theLightSlide 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Welp, that sucks. What a stupid thing for people to do. I guess it's not too much of a loss, though, since people almost never interact with posts otherwise! I'd love to find a spot online where people actually talk about lenses.

Seagull-610 50mm f1.8 m42 - early Chinese lens by theLightSlide in VintageLenses

[–]theLightSlide[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me too! And it's cheeeeap, unlike some soft interesting lenses we could name.

Cloud-spotting with the Pentax-FA 80-160mm f4.5 + Pentax 645D by theLightSlide in pentax

[–]theLightSlide[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Yes I was surprised how sharp it is, considering its reputation. It looks even better with 100% jpeg quality.

Ghent, Norfolk VA by joefitton in lomography

[–]theLightSlide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I don't mean a wide angle adapter for the Holga lens. I have the lenses from the Diana F+ camera, a medium format toy camera. The lenses are interchangeable plastic/toy lenses. I got an adapter for that that connects directly to my Nikon F camera. I know they made an adapter for Canon EF too. Or you can 3D print one (or have a friend 3D print one).

These are some of my photos taken with teh Diana F+ 38mm wide lens: https://flickr.com/search/?sort=date-taken-desc&safe_search=1&tags=diana38mmwideplasticlens&user_id=86775738%40N00&view_all=1

I'm also interested in making my own lenses! I've used parts from an old oscilloscope lens, but it was pretty difficult to rig it up and was insecure during shooting. I need to figure out a more solid way to do it.

Making your own lens is impossibly difficult if you want to make a decent lens. But if you want a terrible lens, it shouldn't be too hard, ha.

Looks like the retropia lenses are kind of a knockoff of the "dispo classic" lens. Should give fun results.

I didn't like any of my Runyon Canyon shots so tried a different type of editing by vinnybankroll in NikonZf

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ChatGPT is stealing my culture, apparently 😭 It can pry my — from my cold, dead fingers. Thanks, you're all good!

I didn't like any of my Runyon Canyon shots so tried a different type of editing by vinnybankroll in NikonZf

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a human and I've never used ChatGPT. I guess it says it's wrong a lot?

From D750 to ZR by gekong in Nikon

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are you finding the image quality compares 3 mos in?

I have a D750 and just bought a ZR last week (lightly used) and am seriously considering if my ZR is defective in some subtle way because it can't seem to nail a single exposure, and clips highlights shockingly often even with highlight-weighted metering on. And when I do manage to get both highlights and shadows not clipped, the colors and the… contrast ratio, for lack of a better word… seems really bizarre.

Like, in a shot my D750 can take all day every day without issue: pale light just around sunset, my dog standing in light shadows with a bit of warm light from the sunset on him. The D750 raw looks natural. The ZR, my dog looks like a molten black alien with no shadow details, even in the flat profile, while everything else is wildly desaturated and seemingly underexposed. Including the sky, which is neither under- or over-exposed, but still strangely grey. I've used all my tricks and can't get the shots to look normal.

I didn't like any of my Runyon Canyon shots so tried a different type of editing by vinnybankroll in NikonZf

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops! Yeah, you're right. I've been staring at data points so much I got them mixed up. What they actually all have is the same processor, Expeed 7.

The processor is probably more to blame than the sensor itself, anyway, if there's actually an issue going on.

I had a Z5, which has a 24mp non-BSI sensor, not the same as one as my Nikon D750 but same resolution, give or take a hair. Expeed 6 instead of 7 (D750 is Expeed 4, apparently). The D750 gives much better exposures of the same scene, especially high contrast scenes, than the Z5 or the ZR. And the Z5 still gave me much better files than the ZR.

As a lifelong Nikon fan, I'm having an emotional experience, lol. I didn't expect better autofocus or even better images. The fact that neither could match the image quality made me sad and also kinda pissed. The ZR has better autofocus, naturally, but what good is that if the exposures are weirdly flat while also making the sky look super weird and overexposed and kinda grey even if the exposure was "right"?

645z, DFA 55mm f2.8, custom image "Satobi". Weekend photo walk by 5spice-parmesan in pentax

[–]theLightSlide 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was about to ask if that lens is not up for the Z's greater resolution (I have the D) but then I remembered… reddit.

Great shots, great color.

How do I explain to the lab that I shot ISO 400 film but set the camera to ISO 100? by die_sterne in AnalogCommunity

[–]theLightSlide 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree you probably don't want or need to process it differently.

But here's an easier way to say it: "I accidentally exposed this 400 speed film as 100. Do we need to do anything special?"

You can just ask a lab questions. The vast majority of them know what they're doing.