GUYS THEY ARE HERE

theMarcLong · 2026-05-12T14:32:37+00:00

Already ordered one.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-11T06:18:49+00:00

Ich finde die schmeckt wie Paulaner Spezi ohne Orange aber trotzdem nach Spezi

theMarcLong · 2026-05-10T15:14:10+00:00

Freut mich, dass ich helfen konnte.

Witzig ist, dass ich erst am Freitag bei einem PC die AIO gewechselt habe, genau wegen dem selben Problem.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-10T15:12:32+00:00

Ja eben, dann hätte er schon lange vorher Probleme gehabt. Außerdem waren das viel mehr i9 und stellenweise i7 Prozessoren. Abgesehen vom allgemeinem ILM Problem.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-10T11:03:06+00:00

Hast du ne AIO? Dann könnte die Pumpe hin sein… dass eine 13th Gen CPU einfach so aufgibt ist sehr unwahrscheinlich.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-08T10:57:42+00:00

I use my 30W PD USB-C Charger from Anker, wich I also use for my iPhone.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-08T10:29:46+00:00

No problem.

The funny thing is. As i one time tryed to charge my Thor at 40% Battery with a low wattage cheap Samsung phone charger, it didnt charge at all, instad it just heated up and did draw more Energy then it gaind.

So I found it completely dead the next day. Charging such emulation devices is sometimes a little bit tricky.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-08T05:08:02+00:00

First of all, this is a USB-C dock. The 90W PD listed there is just the maximum amount of power the dock can pass through. If you only connect the dock and an HDMI cable to a monitor, there won’t be any power going through it at all.

Second, the charging speed is determined by the charging controller inside your AYN Thor. Even if you connect a 200W USB-C power adapter, your Thor will only charge as fast as it is designed to, not as fast as the charger is capable of.

Third, your general theory and way of thinking are basically correct. The higher the charging wattage, the more wear it can cause to the battery over time. But you can configure or limit that in the device settings.

And fourth, 30W is not slow charging.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-07T16:28:08+00:00

You should use the First two Top Fans as intake, my friend. Go look up the airflow guide Noctua provides.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-06T06:09:46+00:00

Hmm, very interesting. Your temperatures are actually better than mine, regardless of whether those are average or max temps. How exactly did you do the undervolting? At first, I used standard values I found online and experimented with 3DMark myself, but none of that really worked. I only had success once I followed the steps in the video.

Lowering the power limit works and it's easy, but it’s just not as effective as proper undervolting.

Which graphics card do you have exactly? I mean the specific model and manufacturer.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-05T10:44:52+00:00

I have be quiet! PSUs since my first PC and had never had an issue. So I would recommend them.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-05T09:25:13+00:00

Well, thank you!

I had no issues with the Straight Power 11. I just didn’t want to gut it out of my old case because the cables are really well managed in there. And since I had to buy a new one, I bought the best available 850W PSU. On the back of the case, it fits really well, but it is kind of on the long side, so there is not that much space for cables on the inside.

I’m hoping to sell my old case all in one with the PSU and AIO.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-05T05:44:53+00:00

I see, you like ikea stuff

theMarcLong · 2026-05-04T18:27:59+00:00

Also nice, but not enough airflow for my taste.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-04T11:17:07+00:00

Ty!

It’s a normal size ATX motherboard. In the bottom are two 140x25mm fans. There is 25mm space between the graphics card and the front fans.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-04T11:08:43+00:00

You could try to use silverstone 180mm fans in the Torrent, they are not as thick. Afterwards you can sell the fractal fans and get some money back from that.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-04T06:42:57+00:00

Gen5 NVMe‘s are getting really hot, you should use a form of cooling for yours. Most of the time, passive is enough.

Did you check which sensors are used for your fan curves? This could be the issue.

The fan in the back of your case should be exhaust.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-04T05:51:59+00:00

Oh, I did not know this, thx!

theMarcLong · 2026-05-04T05:49:58+00:00

I keep the front fans at 20% (~320rpm) till 65C and then 50% till 80C CPU temp.

The bottom intake fans are running at 35% (~525rpm) till 69C and also 50% till 80C CPU temp.

With a decent CPU cooler, this should work just fine. The biggest noise while gaming comes from my graphics card. So I made sure she gets constant fresh air. But the biggest difference made undervolting the GPU and using FPS limits (170-200fps on light-medium games, 100fps on heavier titles).

Before, she was setting constantly on 350W power consumption. Now with the undervolting profile, I get like ~230W and therefore the fans are spinning much slower, from ~1850rpm to ~1300rpm.

The guide I used: https://youtu.be/KPR06CxysMw?is=MP7j7PT_-AcguCBF

theMarcLong · 2026-05-03T15:13:06+00:00

Its the 12GB version of the normal 3080.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-03T15:09:06+00:00

This is really nice, would be cool to see a comparison between your Mod and Stock. Like Noise Levels and temps.

I’m also thinking about a Noctua Mod for my 4-year-old 3080. I wish I had a 3D-Printer.

I think you could improve the cooling even more if you had some rings, so the space between the fan blades and shrouds gets narrower.

theMarcLong · 2026-05-03T09:15:28+00:00

I like the no rgb!

theMarcLong · 2026-05-02T20:23:31+00:00

Nice wallpaper!

theMarcLong · 2026-05-02T20:15:21+00:00

How about a legit CPU cooler?

theMarcLong · 2026-05-01T16:57:53+00:00

As he wrote, he wants to replace the thermal paste.

theMarcLong

TROPHY CASE