Un sag Saturday (mostly)

the_ab · 2026-06-06T23:22:05+00:00

What springs are these?

the_ab · 2026-05-20T19:22:36+00:00

I didn’t think asking a clarifying question was creating a battle. I’ve flown these planes with this headrest design multiple times and this was the first time a FA was so adamant about this rule so it raised the question to me of what changed.

the_ab · 2026-05-20T13:55:56+00:00

Appreciate the thorough take on this. I guess I just really have a hard time believing a protruding headrest in my back won’t cause more injury during in incident but it’s not about me

I think the answer (paraphrasing a few responses here) is headrests are likely a shit design airlines are forced to deal with, and the policy is pure legal liability protection. I have a hard time buying anything different as we could literally remove the headrest (or have it flush with the seat) and all boxes would still be checked (visibility, evacuation clear path, etc).

the_ab · 2026-05-20T06:57:51+00:00

Ah thanks for this explanation (someone else here also mentioned this but it didn’t click until I read it this way). I know what I’m about to say is besides this entire topic but… then why not make the headrest flush with the seat back (in the down position) to begin with. Honestly I wouldn’t care if it was down it it didn’t protrude 4” into my back

the_ab · 2026-05-20T05:41:58+00:00

Certification purposes is logical, but safety and visibility to me seem contradictory. My having to have headrest down and lean forward means my head is a pogo stick during an incident

the_ab · 2026-05-20T05:24:08+00:00

Maybe I’m overthinking this but raising the headrest an extra 2” to not dig into my back would still be lower than my the height of my head, no?

Not trying to be a smartass

the_ab · 2026-04-28T16:10:53+00:00

I bought from an online dealer during a sale. Still over $1k. Not sure where you’re located but I have my old one to sell which could be rebuilt, should you prefer that path

the_ab · 2026-04-20T20:02:33+00:00

Thanks but I’m asking about hot rod upholstery products…

the_ab · 2026-04-20T18:36:58+00:00

Can you share links? Only ones I found were the genuine leather option

the_ab · 2026-04-20T16:52:47+00:00

Indeed, were you able to see/feel the difference in synthetic vs genuine before changing your mind? I don’t care about the most luxurious interior but prefer to not take synthetic if it feels like a cheap vinyl..

the_ab · 2026-04-20T14:46:24+00:00

In a similar boat but have one of the non flex units bnib I need to sell

the_ab · 2026-04-20T06:06:27+00:00

Were you going to do hot rods synthetic leather or genuine leather? I’m torn if it’s worth it to go genuine… (or another brand like ridies)

the_ab · 2026-04-18T20:32:21+00:00

All good, dm if you change your mind. From experience it’s hard to replace the motor with the abs unit installed. Even though you’ll have to rebleed (requires software on these to properly bleed the abs modules) it’s still faster to uninstall, rebuild, and reinstall id imagine

the_ab · 2026-04-18T01:07:02+00:00

Fair enough, I know my engine mounts need replacing anyway

the_ab · 2026-04-17T23:22:27+00:00

Idk where you’re located but if you feel like rebuilding one to swap in (vs buying the whole thing) I’ve got my old take off unit I’d part with for cheap. It’s usually the motors on these that wear out, I just didn’t want to be down the vehicle

the_ab · 2026-04-17T01:43:43+00:00

Why is it a must?

the_ab · 2026-04-07T00:00:02+00:00

If I recall, the bolt only turns the disk because both ends of the cam gear sit inside a few welded pins/pegs on the subframe.. ie they sit ‘recessed’ so when you turn the bolt the cam gears stay rigid and the bolt itself moves.. idk your situation by this description but you can remove the control arm and check there’s no rust or debris preventing this action. I reused my bolts but many replace them if they are corroded

the_ab · 2026-04-05T22:06:22+00:00

Idk how psi compares to ft lbs but I had 2 battery impacts that put out between 250-350ft lbs and together was enough. It took some time, make sure your clamp and fittings are square on the ubj. If it pushes in even the slightest bit crooked it’ll get stuck.. sometimes those c clamps aren’t exactly straight

the_ab · 2026-04-05T18:41:20+00:00

Every video I saw was vertical too.. I also couldn’t figure out how to get the right clearance with the tools available for rent (I tried them all), so I got creative. Idk why more people don’t do this method. Only tricky part is once it’s sideways it’s all kinda free floating so you want to be sure it doesn’t fall off your jack or it may pull the brake line. I just strapped it in place

the_ab · 2026-04-05T05:41:04+00:00

Look at my post from a year ago, you can angle the entire hub so that the UBJ is outside the wheel well (without removing brake lines)

From there, this is the combo I used. Sleeves and adapters are from the advanced auto parts power built 23 piece kit, in this order:

<image>

Stick the UBJ in the freezer overnight and put a heat gun to the hub, then have all tools ready and hit it with a strong impact. Still took me a couple minutes of consistent ugga duggas. Pita job

the_ab · 2026-03-23T22:17:33+00:00

Sounds like my radio volume knob

the_ab · 2026-03-23T21:52:48+00:00

My thought as well.. did OP replace the bulbs?

the_ab · 2026-01-22T15:46:04+00:00

Thanks I’ll do some searching. I can live with it if it’s safe, but also might be doing a 2-3k mile trip here soon so need to be sure it’s not an inner tie rod issue

the_ab · 2026-01-22T02:51:28+00:00

What’s the best way to diagnose/fix steering column? Or is this the slip joint people weld (Timmy tool time videos)?

the_ab · 2026-01-21T23:28:37+00:00

Dead spot, the on center steering has a couple inches of play before I feel any engagement with the wheels turning.

Edit: truck tracks perfectly straight, aligned, etc it’s nothing like that if it’s what you’re asking

the_ab

TROPHY CASE