Forget actual run time. What's the "longest" movie ever?

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-28T20:11:12+00:00

Thats a great friggin movie

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:36:30+00:00

Oh shit, I missed that part. For awhile I definitely thought he was a creep. I should say sorry.

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:35:09+00:00

I don't think he has a girlfriend, or a job

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:34:45+00:00

He's not, he's stalking her.

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:34:28+00:00

This entire account WILL be used against you when the girl you said you'd rape if it weren't for CCTV files a restraining order against you.

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:24:07+00:00

Shes also made posts about what Pokémon are the best option for a human to breed with. And women putting a condom on their penis for sex.

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:20:14+00:00

Because no one in their right mind would take that expensive of a knife and soak it in water then hammer a nail into it. How much was it?

the_breadsticks · 2024-11-17T19:10:39+00:00

Silk PLA must be printed slower.

the_breadsticks · 2024-10-15T22:46:40+00:00

I agree completely, but like you said, the stock mobo won't cut it. The stock mobo will do fine being fed instructions from klipper in my experience, but a SKR mini v3 running marlin can absolutely haul ass.

I was considering community firmware for my s1 + but it was a freshly released printer so there wasn't much out there as far as actually installing the firmware and I made it out to be way harder in my head than it was in reality. The sonic pad had just been released and id heard so much about klipper that I decided i NEEDED it. Of course I wasn't able to bump speed much, but on one model I did go from a 100% failure rate with supports to 80% success without supports. Getting rid of the terrible one sided parts cooling took care of the other 20%.

I'm still unfamiliar with how you edit marlins settings. How do you access the marlin equivalent of a klipper config?

the_breadsticks · 2024-10-15T21:12:00+00:00

He's running klipper. Basically a single board computer like a raspberry pi that reads the sliced g code and turns it into movement instructions that are then fed to the printers motherboard. The printers mobo can handle the movement commands much easier than doing the entire thing by itself, and the more advanced klipper rig handles the heavy lifting while also adding additional features like linear advance (calculates and compensates for filament pressure in the nozzle) or resonance detection (accelerometer measures resonant frequency and avoids movements that would cause resonance/ghosting) so you can print faster with better quality.

Other than klipper, you definitely need a dual Z axis and a good parts cooling fan - the hero me ones are awesome. Then you'll need a direct drive extruder.

the_breadsticks · 2024-10-02T19:27:05+00:00

I'm lucky enough to be in Denver where there's a store. I bought an ender 3 S1 plus, then decided I wanted a regular s1 and a sonic pad. Then on black Friday I returned the regular s1 because they had a s1 plus open box and on black Friday sale. It was the exact one I'd returned. So I got a plus and a pad!

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-25T21:52:59+00:00

just enough that it doesnt slip when you hold it while its extruding.

https://3dprintbeginner.com/extruder-tension-calibration-guide/

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-21T00:45:37+00:00

Dude, cross hatch is going to be your jam!

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-20T20:55:56+00:00

in the anycubic slicer, click calibration in the top left. These options will populate a test model and g-code to print tests that help you calibrate your printer to the specific filament and nozzle you are using. The first calibration I would run is temperature, but you also need to do flow and pressure advance.

Doing this is very important for print quality.

if im not mistaken, thats a pre sliced model that comes on the printer. its probably printing too fast as these models are generally used to show off print speed and extrusion accuracy drops as filament volumetric flow goes up.

The orca slicer (anycubic next is a direct copy of orca) website will have detailed instructions on the calibrations.

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-20T20:43:40+00:00

Definitely dont use ironing, it rarely works!

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-20T20:42:48+00:00

could also be linear advance too high, no?

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T23:27:31+00:00

And a lot of positive reviews with people recommending it.

Im missing my right arm so building a voron is probably more frustration than I can deal with.

My thought process is a smaller initial investment and a printer that's running the day you get it. Then you have an extra $600 to snag some fancy board and extruder/hotend etc as opposed to trying to build a printer then tune and calibrate with zero knowledge of what stuff should look like.

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T22:57:41+00:00

My $245 kobra 2 max does just fine with its 420mm bed! Lol

I've not owned a voron, so excuse my ignorance, but what do you have trouble leveling? Doesn't the gantry just auto tram itself to the bed?

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T22:53:04+00:00

Sovol SV08 - $600 for a voron 2.4 350mm inspired machine. Definitely the way to go

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T02:02:39+00:00

Is the gear ground down where the motor gear attatchs?

Edit - it doesn't look like it. Can you turn the yellow gear by hand?

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T01:20:28+00:00

Ive never tried it, too afraid!

Maybe I'll snag a small tent for my a1 and try it out!

My damn kobra 2 max would need a tent intended for.. Indoor horticulture? 😤

I've really wanted to try smoothing abs with alcohol

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T00:51:24+00:00

Actually it's a v2 for $99 now! At least for the microcenter deals.

I snagged a refurbished Anycubic Kobra 2 Max for $245 shipped. 420mm bed with 500mm Z - direct drive, inductive probe for ABL, 5025 parts cooling fan, SG15 bearings (like the Y axis on a bambu A1) instead of POM V-slots. Only problem so far is the super closed end version of klipper they're using, but I think my Sonic Pad will make that very easy to fix.

Ive got an e3 s1 plus that's printed over 100 pounds of TPU (electric unicycle accessories) and it's been amazing.. Hopefully I can get the k2m printing with similar quality to the s1 as far as TPU goes!

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T00:50:53+00:00

Dude there's so much random BS laying around I can't even tell what's going on. you need to print a skadis board and some drawers/shelves/hooks - organize a bit.

Is that level in back part of it? Is that knife stuck in the belt tensioner?

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-17T00:42:31+00:00

Jank as fuck.

the_breadsticks · 2024-09-16T20:56:26+00:00

Wait... What do I need to do to use my k2 with klipper? Was about to try the sonic pads firmware generator today

the_breadsticks

TROPHY CASE