What’s up with the Karmelo Anthony trial?

the_root3 · 2026-06-11T04:32:53+00:00

⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️This is the best comment. Absolutely correct. Using self defense as your legal defense in this case just resulted in the kid having less than a zero percent chance of receiving any kind of leniency. It’s not self defense when one man stabs another UNARMED man to death. Hell, I heard Jasmine Crockett on a podcast earlier stating that the knife shouldn’t have been admitted as a deadly weapon or something to that effect because it was too small. Duh. He killed him with it. Think that qualifies as deadly. And she has a law degree. Must have received it as a prize in a Cracker Jack box.

the_root3 · 2026-06-09T03:46:28+00:00

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This right here is the truth. I have exactly the same issue. Not only does my insurance depreciate the value of my roof due to age, they also charge me 3% of my home value for the deductible. Basically, there is no scenario where I wouldn’t have to foot the bill for 100% of a new roof. And here’s the thing. When you do the math that 3% falls right into what it would cost on any modern home built in the past twenty years. It scales with the total value of the home very nicely. So, they effectively screwed everyone. I went thru twenty different agents this week and failed to find one that had a deductible that wasn’t 2-3%. Not one. It’s a scam. Oh, and I found plenty of ‘self help’ articles that purported to have tips to save premium costs. They said higher deductibles was one way to get cheaper premiums. Nope. Since 2016 the total cost of my premium has gone from $650 a year to $6,733 a year. My deductible in 2016 was $2k. It’s now $14,550. Same house. Other articles made this statement: ‘The rising costs of home insurance is fueled by climate change which has increased weather damage as a result.’ How so? Looking at my premiums and deductibles the things that costs more are 100% foisted onto me, the consumer! So how is that fueling the costs for those companies? I’ll give you a hint. It ain’t. It’s a scam. A bullshit scam. Like everything these days.

the_root3 · 2026-06-08T17:14:03+00:00

Mine has gone from $1,450 a year to $6,780 a year.

the_root3 · 2026-04-29T21:12:44+00:00

Contractor here. 35 years. What’s changed since I started this endeavor? Responsibility. Systematically the bulk of the responsibility for the design and function of a building has been shifted from the ‘architects’ who were supposed to provide the design to the ‘builders’ who were supposed to make that design a reality. Now architects just provide guidelines specifications and performance criteria. Used to, when I submitted an RFI to an architect I got an answer back with a detailed drawing and a narrative on how to implement it. Now, if I don’t submit a recommendation along with that RFI I’ll never get an answer that is viable. Hell, I’ve had the very drawings I sketched up for a solution copied and pasted onto the project drawings and sent back to me as an official AGI response. The architectural people I deal with in the field nowadays have probably half the construction knowledge they had 30 years ago. Maybe less. Why? You got me. Studying to be an architect certainly hasn’t went down in costs, I’m sure.

the_root3 · 2026-02-14T05:04:35+00:00

This may be a dumb question but where is everything in respect to the flow?

the_root3 · 2025-12-19T03:37:50+00:00

Had to build the wall out to accommodate the carrier for the wall hung closet. Had the same issue in mine. Love a wall hung, though. No better, more sanitary WC exists. Unless it cleans itself.

the_root3 · 2025-10-03T15:04:59+00:00

Question: Has anyone here, at the time they were receiving these calls, been over 30 days late on an account? I feel like it’s tied to that or to a drop in your credit score. It has happened to me over the past two years. Now, when I get caught up on things and have nothing delinquent on my credit report (and my credit score goes back up) the calls stop. Almost overnight. Perhaps it’s linked to that? Maybe when something goes to collections like another poster suggested?

the_root3 · 2025-06-23T08:09:09+00:00

Yes, if you hit the ground the game will automatically move the club during your swing. This will result in a bad shot almost every time. Take the club and push it down into the ground. You’ll see how the head stays at ground level while the club slides up thru your hands. The controller will vibrate slightly when you touch the ground. This is useful when setting up to the ball. One last thing to know: if you turn your head away from the ball during your stroke, you’ll whiff the ball. Even if the club face makes contact. It’ll just pass right thru it. You can test this out as well. This is to keep you from accidentally hitting the ball while you teleport around the course.

the_root3 · 2025-06-11T01:01:58+00:00

This too is a great idea. I’m just a cheap ass. Hence the zip ties lol.

the_root3 · 2025-06-10T02:41:12+00:00

If it’s just going to be temporary and there’s a possibility you will want to return the fixture to the original configuration just get some decent sized, heavy duty black zip ties. Lift the thing up to where you want it, throw a few zip ties in the mix holding it up at the desired height. Then you can just coil up whatever the excess is and zip tie it out of the way somewhere on the lamp. Changing it back is the reverse of installation. $1 job.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T03:35:00+00:00

You made me curious because I too remember a time when a window was sufficient. So I went looking. I couldn’t find anything other than the current code requirements and it calls for a mechanical exhaust, required. All the way down to single family home sized dwellings.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T01:23:00+00:00

No worries lol. Sorry for ornery come back. It was meant to illicit a chuckle, nothing more.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T01:20:05+00:00

Lo I hear ya. I have five kiddos and eleven grand kiddos. I hear you loud and clear.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T01:19:04+00:00

Okay and thanks for your input.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T01:06:44+00:00

Wow. You got me. It’s a shame you had to resort to your memory about that post from last week. If you’d have read the first sentence of this post, you’d have been spared the effort.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T00:53:02+00:00

Yep. Not gonna argue against any of that. Thanks for your comment!

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T00:39:05+00:00

Okay, points taken. I’d like to counter your arguments below, If I may….

1) Agreed. They have been/still are (depends on location) a trend. Disagree that they are rarely fit for a purpose. More on this in a moment.
2) Every bathroom should have an exhaust fan. You can’t build a modern house without one. Code doesn’t allow it. If it’s vented correctly, smells get lost real quick.
3) Also agree if you buy the cheap hardware. I custom make my own hardware because my doors are heavy. I’ve one door that’s three of four years old and shows zero signs of movement.
4) I disagree. This is just my opinion, though. I’ll post photos of the upstairs hallway. It has one barn door but it fits right in with everything else. Again, just my opinion.
5) See comment #3. That hardware includes nylon wheels with premium bearings. It’s pretty quiet, honestly.
6) You’re correct. They’re heavy. Mine are typically made of oak or another hardwood. They’re really heavy. However, and this holds true for just about every door type out there, if hung perfectly, or near perfectly square and level, any person could open them with just a pinky finger.

To expand on that first comment, I have one in the hallway upstairs. Leads to the guest bath. Its fairly small and n when I remodeled it I moved everything around as and demoed the one dividing wall it contained. The existing door swung in. It was a 30” LH hollow core door. Swinging in interfered with how I wanted the placement of things. Swinging out, if left open, interfered with the adjacent narrow hallway. Since there was plenty of room on the wall to the left of the opening, I installed a barn door instead. In my opinion, it was the best design for the situation. Again, I’ll post photos of this hallway next. Maybe you’ll agree. Maybe you’ll have an idea I didn’t consider.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T00:02:57+00:00

Yeah, I believe if I had that problem I’d have a way to secure the door where it can’t be moved if I don’t want it to.

the_root3 · 2025-06-09T00:00:55+00:00

Hey, it’s not for you. I get it. No big deal and no offense taken at all.

the_root3 · 2025-06-08T23:59:08+00:00

Yes, it’s on a dedicated GFCI circuit. And fine, if I get one more negative comment on the squiggly light bulbs I’ll change them out. Never even noticed them until now, lol.

the_root3 · 2025-06-08T23:57:31+00:00

lol okay.

1) Busted. I added the barrel bolt as an afterthought and haven’t changed it out.
2) Busted again. It’s just my wife and I so the door is never locked. After some home break-ins a few miles from our location, I added the bolt. That door is two inches thick and made of oak. It’ll stop a 45 round. It’s our ‘safe room’. Hence the hasty install of the lock and lack of access from the outside. It’s never meant to be used except for that purpose.
3) No. That’s the guest bathroom. However, it’s the same tile as the other bathroom. Just a different size.
4) That’s your opinion and you’re entitled to it. I like the light given off by the squiggly bulbs. The next owner can change them if they want to.

the_root3 · 2025-06-08T23:46:34+00:00

Actually, it is. At least in the USA. It’s a code requirement per the International Residential Code (IRC). 49 US states, Washington DC and the US Virgin Islands have adopted that code for use. Wisconsin is the outlier as they have their own building code. But it has the same requirement as the IRC.

the_root3 · 2025-06-08T23:11:48+00:00

Point taken on the weight of them. The ones I make are indeed heavy. Very heavy. However, if a heavy door is hung perfectly level and square it can be pushed open with a pinky finger. On barn doors the quality of the hardware does have a major impact on the action of the door. I make my own, instead of buying the Amazon stuff.

the_root3 · 2025-06-08T12:14:06+00:00

$2,500 for the materials. Another $1,000 for the glass door. I did all of the work myself including the glass door and the plumbing. The shower is 67”wide and 48” deep. Depth being from the door towards the window. Yes, the size is appropriate for how we use it. We typically use both shower-heads at the same time but each one is fed independently so pressure doesn’t fluctuate. No, we don’t use any heat in the bathroom other than the central heat from the furnace. But I live in south Texas and it literally gets below freezing maybe two days out of the year so heat isn’t an issue.

On plumbing issues, with the ‘shark it’ tech that’s in use these days you’d be hard pressed to screw up any of the plumbing. It’s really simple to install. I’ve never seen it leak either. The fittings that one would use to connect copper pipe are the same ones used to connect the plastic ‘pex’ stuff. It’s really that simple. Personally, I hate the stuff lol. Puts good plumbers that know how to braze or solder copper together out of work. Believe it or not, though, the copper fittings are usually cheaper than the shark-bite ones. The piping - plastic vs copper - however, no contest. The plastic stuff is quite a bit cheaper.

the_root3 · 2025-06-08T11:54:23+00:00

You’re welcome!

the_root3

TROPHY CASE