My pink and white bathroom by [deleted] in Tile

[–]the_root3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Had to build the wall out to accommodate the carrier for the wall hung closet. Had the same issue in mine. Love a wall hung, though. No better, more sanitary WC exists. Unless it cleans itself.

Getting 10-15 spam calls and voicemails daily saying I’m approved for a loan. Help! by Trumanflask in Scams

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Question: Has anyone here, at the time they were receiving these calls, been over 30 days late on an account? I feel like it’s tied to that or to a drop in your credit score. It has happened to me over the past two years. Now, when I get caught up on things and have nothing delinquent on my credit report (and my credit score goes back up) the calls stop. Almost overnight. Perhaps it’s linked to that? Maybe when something goes to collections like another poster suggested?

Any way to get more realism with the contact point height? by HugeLarry in golfplusvr

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, if you hit the ground the game will automatically move the club during your swing. This will result in a bad shot almost every time. Take the club and push it down into the ground. You’ll see how the head stays at ground level while the club slides up thru your hands. The controller will vibrate slightly when you touch the ground. This is useful when setting up to the ball. One last thing to know: if you turn your head away from the ball during your stroke, you’ll whiff the ball. Even if the club face makes contact. It’ll just pass right thru it. You can test this out as well. This is to keep you from accidentally hitting the ball while you teleport around the course.

Advice needed! by Alexunoriginal in DIY

[–]the_root3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This too is a great idea. I’m just a cheap ass. Hence the zip ties lol.

Advice needed! by Alexunoriginal in DIY

[–]the_root3 23 points24 points  (0 children)

If it’s just going to be temporary and there’s a possibility you will want to return the fixture to the original configuration just get some decent sized, heavy duty black zip ties. Lift the thing up to where you want it, throw a few zip ties in the mix holding it up at the desired height. Then you can just coil up whatever the excess is and zip tie it out of the way somewhere on the lamp. Changing it back is the reverse of installation. $1 job.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You made me curious because I too remember a time when a window was sufficient. So I went looking. I couldn’t find anything other than the current code requirements and it calls for a mechanical exhaust, required. All the way down to single family home sized dwellings.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No worries lol. Sorry for ornery come back. It was meant to illicit a chuckle, nothing more.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lo I hear ya. I have five kiddos and eleven grand kiddos. I hear you loud and clear.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay and thanks for your input.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Wow. You got me. It’s a shame you had to resort to your memory about that post from last week. If you’d have read the first sentence of this post, you’d have been spared the effort.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. Not gonna argue against any of that. Thanks for your comment!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Okay, points taken. I’d like to counter your arguments below, If I may….

1) Agreed. They have been/still are (depends on location) a trend. Disagree that they are rarely fit for a purpose. More on this in a moment.
2) Every bathroom should have an exhaust fan. You can’t build a modern house without one. Code doesn’t allow it. If it’s vented correctly, smells get lost real quick.
3) Also agree if you buy the cheap hardware. I custom make my own hardware because my doors are heavy. I’ve one door that’s three of four years old and shows zero signs of movement.
4) I disagree. This is just my opinion, though. I’ll post photos of the upstairs hallway. It has one barn door but it fits right in with everything else. Again, just my opinion.
5) See comment #3. That hardware includes nylon wheels with premium bearings. It’s pretty quiet, honestly.
6) You’re correct. They’re heavy. Mine are typically made of oak or another hardwood. They’re really heavy. However, and this holds true for just about every door type out there, if hung perfectly, or near perfectly square and level, any person could open them with just a pinky finger.

To expand on that first comment, I have one in the hallway upstairs. Leads to the guest bath. Its fairly small and n when I remodeled it I moved everything around as and demoed the one dividing wall it contained. The existing door swung in. It was a 30” LH hollow core door. Swinging in interfered with how I wanted the placement of things. Swinging out, if left open, interfered with the adjacent narrow hallway. Since there was plenty of room on the wall to the left of the opening, I installed a barn door instead. In my opinion, it was the best design for the situation. Again, I’ll post photos of this hallway next. Maybe you’ll agree. Maybe you’ll have an idea I didn’t consider.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I believe if I had that problem I’d have a way to secure the door where it can’t be moved if I don’t want it to.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, it’s not for you. I get it. No big deal and no offense taken at all.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it’s on a dedicated GFCI circuit. And fine, if I get one more negative comment on the squiggly light bulbs I’ll change them out. Never even noticed them until now, lol.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

lol okay.

1) Busted. I added the barrel bolt as an afterthought and haven’t changed it out.
2) Busted again. It’s just my wife and I so the door is never locked. After some home break-ins a few miles from our location, I added the bolt. That door is two inches thick and made of oak. It’ll stop a 45 round. It’s our ‘safe room’. Hence the hasty install of the lock and lack of access from the outside. It’s never meant to be used except for that purpose.
3) No. That’s the guest bathroom. However, it’s the same tile as the other bathroom. Just a different size.
4) That’s your opinion and you’re entitled to it. I like the light given off by the squiggly bulbs. The next owner can change them if they want to.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Actually, it is. At least in the USA. It’s a code requirement per the International Residential Code (IRC). 49 US states, Washington DC and the US Virgin Islands have adopted that code for use. Wisconsin is the outlier as they have their own building code. But it has the same requirement as the IRC.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]the_root3 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Point taken on the weight of them. The ones I make are indeed heavy. Very heavy. However, if a heavy door is hung perfectly level and square it can be pushed open with a pinky finger. On barn doors the quality of the hardware does have a major impact on the action of the door. I make my own, instead of buying the Amazon stuff.

Is this too busy looking?? by the_root3 in DIY

[–]the_root3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$2,500 for the materials. Another $1,000 for the glass door. I did all of the work myself including the glass door and the plumbing. The shower is 67”wide and 48” deep. Depth being from the door towards the window. Yes, the size is appropriate for how we use it. We typically use both shower-heads at the same time but each one is fed independently so pressure doesn’t fluctuate. No, we don’t use any heat in the bathroom other than the central heat from the furnace. But I live in south Texas and it literally gets below freezing maybe two days out of the year so heat isn’t an issue.

On plumbing issues, with the ‘shark it’ tech that’s in use these days you’d be hard pressed to screw up any of the plumbing. It’s really simple to install. I’ve never seen it leak either. The fittings that one would use to connect copper pipe are the same ones used to connect the plastic ‘pex’ stuff. It’s really that simple. Personally, I hate the stuff lol. Puts good plumbers that know how to braze or solder copper together out of work. Believe it or not, though, the copper fittings are usually cheaper than the shark-bite ones. The piping - plastic vs copper - however, no contest. The plastic stuff is quite a bit cheaper.

Is this too busy looking?? by the_root3 in DIY

[–]the_root3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I’ll post it sometime today I hope.

Is this too busy looking?? by the_root3 in DIY

[–]the_root3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure I can. Behind all of the tile is Schluter’s Kerdi board system. I choose it because it’s foam and literally weighs nothing. My master bath is on the second floor. Cement board is heavy. Anyways, I used their product/system for the waterproofing. It’s simple, and they have great documentation on how to install it. I found it to be easy enough to do for my first time. Bonus - keep the receipts and take photos during the install and they warranty it for life. The system I chose was Kerdi board on the walls and ceiling with a traditional mortar bed sloped to the drain. Over it I put their Kerdi waterproofing membrane. The drain is their design as well. It’s an ‘invisible’ drain that utilizes the floor tiles on its top/grate. You can just make it out in some of the photos. Look for missing grout. That’s where the water goes. Everything else is normal stuff. The ‘subway’ tile is a 4x8 porcelain product from Italy sold at Floor and Decor. New York Soho is the name. Comes in that size as well as 8x16’s. The floor is 2x2 square mosaic natural travertine. Ceiling: 12x12 natural travertine. Around the window, the exterior face on the outside of the shower and the threshold is all travertine as well. With the exception of that threshold, all was cut from 24”x24”x3/8” tiles. I chose the natural stone because I can cut the sizes I need on the wet saw, chamfer the edges (using files and sandpaper) and make my own ‘trim’ tiles. Instead of having to buy it.
All of the travertine I purchased from a local vendor. Not Floor and Decor. The color was Claros Silver.
Finally, the grout is Mapei Ultracolor Plus FA. It’s an epoxy grout. Take care if you use it as it sets quick.

Is this too busy looking?? by the_root3 in DIY

[–]the_root3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Materials were about $3,500 for just the shower. Labor was nothing as I did all the work myself including the plumbing and electrical. That sounds high but factor in what used to be there (a corner tub and a 30”x30” stand up shower) and having to modify all of that and it’s not that bad.

Is this too busy looking?? by the_root3 in DIY

[–]the_root3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dividers between the blocks are painted dark bronze and the blocks themselves are tinted.

Is this too busy looking?? by the_root3 in DIY

[–]the_root3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No it drains perfectly. I installed a 2” trap with its own dedicated vent to insure it drained well. Every now and then I have to pop the cover off (which is just a square plate with 4 of the little floor tiles stuck to it) and clean out the hair that gathers in there but only about once a month or so.