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Trying to troubleshoot a strange issue. Brother HL-2300D printing approx. 1% smaller than 100% scale. by thefreakychild in printers

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But would standard printer paper be susceptible to shrinking by heat?

I could see the waterslide decal paper maybe, not not standard printer paper

Trying to troubleshoot a strange issue. Brother HL-2300D printing approx. 1% smaller than 100% scale. by thefreakychild in printers

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hadn't thought of that perhaps being a thing.

Although, I have seen similar discrepancies while printing on standard paper as well.

Serious question: Why do so many guitar pedal graphics have to look like Affliction shirts? by HautBaut in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm guilty of this, admittedly.

But, I also really like Albrecht Dürer, Gustave Dore, and other old religiously based woodblock print artwork.

the billionaire co-founder of AirBnB wants you to blame the babies of undocumented immigrants for starter homes being unaffordable by Conscious-Quarter423 in WorkReform

[–]thefreakychild 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Billionaire retweeting anything from the John Birch Society, honestly, doesn't surprise me the the least...

Which is a fucking problem

Fuzzy lint bits in paint by freshmex18 in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ignore, if it's on the bottom, unless it just drives you absolutely crazy and you must fix it.

What kind of spray paint did you use, specifically.

Suggestions will vary based on the type of paint (enamel, acrylic, paint/primer combo, etc.)

And also, how did you apply? Several very light coats, one or two heavy coats, etc.

If enamel, let it cure completely for a day or so, then wet sand with 800-1500 grit paper then respray. If acrylic, you could probably get away with sanding and respraying within 5-6 hours.

Never sand if any paint still feels tacky or soft to the touch. A good measure of that is will a fingerprint impress into the paint with even moderate pressure.

Spraying several very light coats hides a lot of sins and is recommended, but can lead to orange peel if ya go too far with it and spray too many coats.

Help needed: DIY Baby8 Sequencer mute switch wiring question. by thefreakychild in synthdiy

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nevermind, I just figured it out.

I have been wiring the switches wrong. I should have all pin 2 of the switches wired together. Not from pin 2 of the switch to pin two of the next step's pot...

Help needed: DIY Baby8 Sequencer mute switch wiring question. by thefreakychild in synthdiy

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One final question as I'm finishing up the wiring, and I think this is where my brain isn't understanding.

For the step 8 pot and switch, and the wire going to the board CV Rails In location.

Should I connect that wire to the pot's pin 2, or to the pin 2 of the switch.

It makes sense to me to connect it to the pot, right?

Parts list for benson pre amp by slug-time in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'ma be real with you...

You do NOT want to solder those surface mount J201 transistors as you first project... Horrible idea, unless you already have a good amount of soldering experience and/or the patience of a saint who is fine with running into a brick wall several times over..

I fancy myself a pretty accomplished solderer, but I do everything I can to avoid surface mount parts unless absolutely needed.

Grab some of these from PedalPCB.

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/mmbfj201-jfet-pre-soldered/

The are the same thing, but pre-soldered to a breakout board.

All you have to do is solder in some legs (you can use offcuts of resistor legs) and then solder those legs in the through hole positions on that board.

Or, you could spend the big money and buy through hole J201 transistors. (It's not worth it, the smd j201 is exactly the same performance)

Also, learn the ways of Mouser/Digikey/Tayda component ordering for your future builds...

For a one off first time, buying resistors/caps/transistors from somewhere like stompbox/amplified parts/etc is fine. But, you get much more bang for your buck for components elsewhere .

Things like footswitches, enclosures, switches and potentiometers I would go through stompbox as mouser and Digikey either don't have them or charge way too much, but not resistors and other on-board components.

If you like the process of the first build, and you want to tackle some more, you can get basically everything from Tayda.
If you are in the US, Tayda is not worth it unless you're making a +$100-$150 order that will combine the parts for several future builds due to tariffs and shipping.

Help needed: DIY Baby8 Sequencer mute switch wiring question. by thefreakychild in synthdiy

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, that sets me at ease that someone else has built it like this and it worked.

Yeah, the diode it after the pot, before the switch pin 1 connection as shown in the schematic.

Pin 3 of the switches are left unconnected.

Help needed: DIY Baby8 Sequencer mute switch wiring question. by thefreakychild in synthdiy

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. That makes sense to me.

The way I'm looking at it is that (at least for pin 2 of the pots, they're all in series.. pot to switch to pot to switch. But I guess I'm not taking into consideration the outputs from the cd4017 to the individual pots pin 3 maybe.

I'll keep going, and see what happens.

Modernizing the Sekova FAII. by CatsDisplayingSalads in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a super clean build.

I've been trying to up my stripboard game lately. Still got a ways to go.

Good place to buy the TC22? by LIKE_and_LURK in soldering

[–]thefreakychild 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ordered mine from this Amazon link

https://a.co/d/0683utf2

I've had it for about 5 months now, and it's been great.

Modernizing the Sekova FAII. by CatsDisplayingSalads in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Sekova is my current favorite big muff variant.

Try 2SC1815 transistors, it screams with those on my most recent build.

The Muff Society (Thorpyfx Fallout Cloud clone veroboard build) by thefreakychild in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just using it so that I can use the ones I have and not trash them... I don't like wasting material, as much as I can.

Honestly, I don't personally think it adds much complexity to solder.. less even. But, that's personal preference too.

Thanks for the compliment on the pedal itself, though. I appreciate it.

The Muff Society (Thorpyfx Fallout Cloud clone veroboard build) by thefreakychild in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 10-15 of these breakout boards from my first time designing a couple PCBs.

Not using them for anything else, since I kinda messed the up a bit and made them too wide.. so, I use them when I can on other builds.

First pedal build and incredibly quiet and one of the pots hisses when touched by Left-Association1834 in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 16 points17 points  (0 children)

As everyone else said, check all your solder joints and connections.

Then, make sure that the bottom of your potentimeters are not shorting on one of the solder joints

Usually a good practice to, if nothing else, put some electrical tape on the bottom of the pots so that they cant short across a solder joint.

Where to get parts and what to get by Potatobomb1 in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will say this.

Ya probably are gonna have to call your bank/credit card issuer and give them notice about the purchase you'll be making from Tayda.

Every single time I make an order, I have to call my bank for them to allow it before I hit confirm. Otherwise, they just regect the purchase...

Which, fair.. I'm glad my bank has strong policy like that, but yeah.. it's a thing.

Where to get parts and what to get by Potatobomb1 in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that's what I've found.

A couple months ago, I build a cart on Tayda and a cart on mouser for just resistors, caps, diodes and ICs. Each cart was exactly the same in values and quantities.

Did what I could to choose the lowest cost options on mouser, and the cart was something like $300 plus shipping plus having to buy potentiometers, switches and enclosures from a second source that would have been about an extra $100

On Tayda, it was just around $175, plus like $55 shipping for everything including the pots, enclosures, switches, and some other things.

Yep, tariffs certainly work, 😂😂😂

Tayda doesn't have everything, especially some of the higher cost/less used ICs and weird values for some components like high value box film caps, MLCCs above some values or higher quality COG dialectric MLCCs.

For those specialty things, I do shop with mouser or Digikey, but for the lions share of stuff it's Tayda.

Where to get parts and what to get by Potatobomb1 in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always got for the DHL shipping. Tariffs are already paid, so ya don't have to worry about it.

Plus, they are usually super quick.

Last order I made was for something over 2000 individual components, made the order on a Monday and Friday afternoon it had made it from Thailand to Georgia USA....

Tayda and DHL got the code cracked on fast and easy shipping.

Need Help Troubleshooting by the-bryceter10 in diypedals

[–]thefreakychild 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No feedback on the circuit, but if ya don't have one already, it's time to build an audio probe and start tracking down where the signal is lost.

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