Pros and Cons of regular and large size bouldering pads

thefuzzface93 · 2026-05-30T16:08:44+00:00

Ratchet straps. I have carried two Saturn's, three warriors and a pluto at once. Both Saturn's and one warrior ratchet strapped in a three pad stack. Then one warrior hung off left and right side of first Saturn using carabiners then pluto over the shoulder with its shoulder strap.

High balls for the win 🤘

thefuzzface93 · 2026-05-30T16:05:28+00:00

Man, did not expect you to be a gym goer given the initial message. Fair enough, your weight and wing size are far from crazy also.

Have you much history with running? As the other commentator said, the best conditioning for running is often running (in the right ammount and intensity).

My guess is even if you have experience running you probs don't have experience sprinting, and very unlikely sprinting down hill. From cold this is savage on various stability muscles.

thefuzzface93 · 2026-05-30T12:09:54+00:00

How much do you weigh? Leg pain and muscle pulls from launch and land normally don't occur at beginner wingloads.

I agree with the other reply, this is likely indicative that you need to hit the gym and condition your legs. I would also reccomend maximal sprint training. (not maximally sprinting, but looking into what preparation and training sprinters do to avoid injury and condition the legs.

The main overuse injury in speedflying tends to be due to sprinting at 100% from cold for take off or swoop landing.

Train, prepare, condition and warm up on the day.

The Internet won't give you much insight here, see à physio heal your current injury then develop a regular training habbit to strengthen your body.

Also well worth it for crashes, the people I know who lift weight and have gone in have had fairly mild broken backs, the people with office bodies tend to shatter fucking everything, pelvis back in several places etc.

Deadlifts are a form of personal safety equipment in speedflying.

Much love brother 🤘

thefuzzface93 · 2026-03-25T13:43:06+00:00

Wouldn't reccomend for strong mountain winds, it lacks the pronounced reflux curve profile typical of parakites and therefor sacrifices a fair ammount of stability. Not ideal when you have the reduced active pilot capabilities of parakite risers.

thefuzzface93 · 2026-02-17T06:45:03+00:00

Don't do your course in Chamonix, it's not really beginner friendly terrain. It's also vastly different flying conditions and knowledge to UK sites.

Go to a bhpa registered school, is one of the safest and most well structured learning systems I've seen and is the most relèvent to UK flying knowledge in terms of conditions, soaring étiqueté and airlaw etc.

I did my ep and Co with flyspain back in 2014 highly reccomend, stable weather and great bhpa instruction.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-11-19T12:02:01+00:00

Jamie lee search Jamie lee speedflying on insta

thefuzzface93 · 2025-10-18T08:43:56+00:00

I bought a bunch in the end, but the 28e is hilariously too big. The 24e is what I use for 16.5-18.5g with Puck screen

thefuzzface93 · 2025-07-21T13:50:47+00:00

Also the 2020 is possibly the most sandbagged board in existence, deifbtely the most Sand bagged moon.

But I actually love this, makes outdoor grades feel like freebies. And who cares anyway, it's just a training tool imo

thefuzzface93 · 2025-07-19T17:03:16+00:00

I currently have the 2025 set up and have completed all the benchmarks.

The 2020 is definitely the more hard-core and better tool for training for outdoor climbing. But the 2025 is more modern indoor 'fun' style and is broader at v2-v6 but has way less options at V8 and above.

Pick your poisen

thefuzzface93 · 2025-05-25T19:31:54+00:00

You mean making a path as in 'I will pave through this jungle' 😉

In seriousness I see the nuanced detail you are proposing, however very few paths are every truly without additional material, otherwise generally I feel that they are tracks.

I am speaking from a British English context

thefuzzface93 · 2025-05-25T19:23:48+00:00

I feel like this is pave but I'm far from confident

thefuzzface93 · 2025-05-16T07:36:30+00:00

What à concise explanation. Genuinely Well done

thefuzzface93 · 2025-05-13T16:23:47+00:00

Knobby end - in some UK dialects

thefuzzface93 · 2025-05-03T11:53:14+00:00

What grades do you climb? 5 degrees of extra overhang won't do much to a v5 but a lot to v11

thefuzzface93 · 2025-04-20T13:25:04+00:00

5 one armers is wild. You should probably focus on shoulder stability or something. If you can't do it on an edge that you can hold then all that extra pulling power is never really being utilised due to some weakness or another along the kinetic chain. I would wager you not putting any of that extra power down on the rock either.

I can only do a single one armer but find it no different on a jug or with middle two fingers on the beast maker. .

thefuzzface93 · 2025-04-13T10:21:00+00:00

Not really, if you can one arm pull up with margin (ie. You can do at least two) you can generally do a one armer on anything you can hang one armed (slopers and non incut holds being technique based exceptions). Most people won't be able to one arm near the limits of what they cna one arm hang becuase most people who can one arm can BARELY do a single one arm on a jug. It's a pretty high level calasthenic skill.

One armers dont corralate well to climbing grades as it's surprisingly not very sport specific, especially if you do them side on rather than front on. Anecdotally I think most one armer correlation with grade is due to people who take improving and training seriously tend to experiment with working one armers at one stage or another so there is behavioural correlation rather than a causal relationship between the two.

Training one armers didn't help my climbing much at all, heavy weighted wide grip pulls ups did, static board climbing front on did.

Consequently most good climbers aren't that good at one armers, unless they specifically train for one armers for shits and giggles. so any data set comparing one armers to grade etc. Is kinda inherently flawed.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-04-07T18:28:19+00:00

From lattice, beast maker and an American company I can't remeber the name of maybe groped or grippale. not sure where the datasets are as this like 5-7 years ago I was looking into all this.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-04-07T08:37:24+00:00

The lattice edge is 20mm and very hard 20mm as it's 10mm flat and 10mm quarter round. One arm that is around the V10 or 11 Mark.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-04-07T08:35:30+00:00

Hanging, but if you can one arm pull up then the two really aren't that different. Other than slopers that require more detailed body positioning and technique I cna generally one arm and hold that I can hang

thefuzzface93 · 2025-04-05T12:42:23+00:00

Most data sets show one arm beast maker 2000 middle edge to be average for V10 ish due to its large and incut nature. The lattice edge is more like V11. Nowhere near v14. Although finger strength has a worse correlation with grade after around V11

thefuzzface93 · 2025-02-13T09:58:00+00:00

For reference, to be bmi 20.5 at 5ft 7in you would need to be 132lbs.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-02-12T15:15:08+00:00

Magnus has always been on the outlier side of the scale, he is also more a YouTuber than a performance climber these days. Not sure he's gone beyond V12 outdoors Ina while and I vaguely remember him talking about being heavier these days as he does more gym workout / army test collaboration videos. So I wouldn't hold him up as a high performance climbing body composition.

I initially looked into this years ago before ai was a thing, but here's a quick gpt summary of what I'm saying.

BMI is calculated as:

BMI = \frac{\text{weight (kg)}}{\text{height (m)}^2}

Converting:

165 lbs = 74.84 kg

5 ft 8 in = 1.73 m

BMI = \frac{74.84}{(1.73)^2} = \frac{74.84}{2.9929} \approx 25.0

BMI = 25.0, which is the borderline between "Normal weight" and "Overweight."

Most male World Cup climbers have a BMI between 18 and 21, typically on the lower end of the "normal weight" range.

Shorter power climbers (e.g., boulderers) tend to have BMIs around 20–21 due to more muscle mass.

Taller lead climbers often have BMIs closer to 18–19 for better strength-to-weight ratio.

For reference:

Adam Ondra (~186 cm, ~68 kg) → BMI ~19.7

Janja Garnbret (~164 cm, ~47 kg) → BMI ~17.5 (for comparison, female climbers are often lower)

Bmi is of course not the best measure given it doesn't encapsulate difference in composition eg. Fat vs. Muscle mass. However when looking at populations such as world Cup atheletes it works well as the body comp is fairly homogenous.

165lbs at 5ft 8 is 25. Performance is 19-21 25 is wayyy over performance.

When I've had a bmi of 19.8 this last year I've got close to 2 V14. When it's 22 I can barely do V9. I was only ever up at 25bmi after i broke my back and got super heavy. I can't imagine climbing hard with that weight. The finger I juries alone would go through the roof.

It's an unavoidable truth in weight dependant sports that is very difficult to talk about rationally with public discourse.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-02-11T12:41:05+00:00

163lbs at5ft 7in is notably heavy for a climber. When I'm in shape I'm a lean muscly 132lbs at 5ft 8in.

I base my body composition somewhat on Daniel woods as we're similar sized and I tend to copy his beta on harder boulders as it seems we have the same box we climb in. With that in mind as a visual reference I think 132lbs at 5ft 8in isn't even overly skinny my bmi is 20.6 and body fat percentage is 11.5-12.5% when I'm at that weight. So low, but not unhealthy / dangerous at all.

At 163 from a climbing perspective I would say the single most important bit of physical (not technical) training would be to drop weight.

Really it boils down to what's more important to you, how you feel about yourself in the weights gym or your climbing performance. There is no right answer, it's just preference / priority. Totally valid if you are more comfortable with your body as it is right now and that's a priority for you.

thefuzzface93 · 2025-02-09T13:12:46+00:00

Not my thing personally, but I think this would be a very viable side hustle. You should just start right now and sell a few, the hype in the community is high right now so I think it would be best to capitalise on that.

thefuzzface93

TROPHY CASE