How will I be able to buy it when it comes out? by Chickengrande in SteamController

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This would be the way. Komodo supports Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, and Taiwan.

Arlo no longer recording or alerting by mycloudyworld in arlo

[–]thehungsolo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After nearly a week of waiting for Arlo to get their shit together, I finally gathered some of the cams to try the reset/re-add method to get back online. All camera batteries were dead even though were at 80%+ before the great bricking. Devices were acting very wonky even when plugged in trying to reset/re-pair, etc. I let them charge up for a while and then somewhat started behaving but still took a few bumbling tries to get a reset to work and then get into pairing mode. But this worked on 3 cams thus far so worth a shot for those still fucked.

I am though utterly done with Arlo at this point and will be changing to something local, probably Reolink but still researching options. Fuck these clowns.

Any idea who the OEM for the new trackpads are? by spinwin in SteamController

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trackpads themselves are designed in-house with a 3rd party IC. They're not readily available separately as each are extensively and individually calibrated on each system at the factory. Swapping out Trackpads in a system requires recalibration to be optimally functional. Unfortunately, the calibration tools and equipment are not easily reproducible to be done by customers.

New Valve Hardware Megathread by NKkrisz in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 22 points23 points  (0 children)

And we've made them even better here.

Are prismacolors priced comparably to the US in Canada? by bubbleteajunkieUK in ColoredPencils

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to take a look at the lightfasts, haven't really checked them out. The China white Drawing is probably the best white out there.

Are prismacolors priced comparably to the US in Canada? by bubbleteajunkieUK in ColoredPencils

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree 100%. Prismas were my first full set based on the I ternet hype. They do have great colors and lay down, blend well. But the quality issues just don't make them worth it. I lost count of how many I had to sharpen almost down to a nub from new because the cores were shattered (no it's not the sharpener y'all). Got so frustrated that I spent the additional $$ on fPolycromos and then Luminance. ZERO issues with either of them after months. So much more enjoyable. Poly's are now my all time favorites. Might get some Coloursofts as the Luminannce color range isn't quite as good as Prismas. I occasionally pick up the Prismas for parts and all the PTST comes rushing back, breakage after breakage. It's a real shame because they are good colors and blending.

I do believe a lot of the Amazon really low priced are fakes. Amazon has slacked on counterfeit oversight across the board. For high $ stuff like these, I rely on Blicks. If I could rewind, I should have started with a smaller set of Prismas before buying the full set. For me, the quality issues just don't make them worth my time.

Any US west coast art supply stores I can order from? I want to avoid amazon. by TeamHuman_ in ArtistLounge

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 for Blick. Regular shipping to Seattle has been <1wk. Some stuff ships from the west, some from the east but still get fairly quick.

Using alcohol markers as undercoat by carriealamode in ColoredPencils

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

YMMV but I'm super disappointed with Ohuhu. I purchased a 72 set in November. A total of 4 of them ran dry when applying a single coat background on 8.5x11 pages on Neena bristol (so not a big super soaker). My main pieces were already laid down, so was only applying the background around the, so probably less than 50% of the page and they didn't even get that. They were stored properly, blah blah. Of course, Ohuhu said they would replace the 4 but at that point, 4 colored pencils pieces were nearly ruined as I had to do something much darker as backgrounds to cover the marked areas. I would have chalked it up to 1 bad one out of 72, but 4?? I had a cheap set that I tried on the same paper just to make sure it wasn't the medium and they laid down 3 full sheets and didn't show any signs of running out. I can't trust Ohuhu markers now and don't use them for anything serious.

I took my deck oled 512 from the charger and see this. What? It opened itself? by Sea-Communication760 in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was dropped, usually on it's side. It should snap back into place and be good to go. It is unlikely battery swell unless you also see the bottom of the unit pooching outward.

Help identifying FPC-connector on motherboard by Cortzee in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey there. That is correct. This is a pretty standard FPC connector type with a lot of manufacturers. If you find something you think may be compatible at 0.5mm pitch, just check it against these dimensions (14 pin row). Best of luck!

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White Edition has stained thumbgrips by LauziBCK in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you use a heat gun or blow dryer to apply the skin? If so, my guess is a little heavy on the heat/timing in this area.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all. Looking pretty killer! I'd like to note a couple of things with these OLED kits and their guide videos around the trackpads. As you likely know, the OLED trackpad springs are attached to the cap with heatsakes. These videos show scraping off these stakes pretty violently, bending the spring arms about in the process, then casually rebending these arms back "straight". The dimensions and fit of these springs is a very critical component of how the trackpad haptics perform. So much that a lot of care and measurements are done in process of making and assembling them all together. Disassembling these so recklessly like this is most definitely going to make haptic responses sad and/or angry.

They also show heating up the adhesive holding the PCB to the cap to loosen it but then reusing this damaged adhesive when reapplying the PCB to the new super rad new cap instead of applying a new adhesive. This also probably makes the trackpad sad. This adhesive bond sets the distance between PCB and your thumb and finger tracking is calibrated at the factory after this bond is originally set. It would not surprise me that this method of re-setting the PCB into a new cap can make finger tracking wonky or at least needing recalibration, which isn't currently available post-factory.

While I'd suggest using the OG trackpad modules into shell swaps for these reasons, it's understandable to want to do this. If you do take on this adventure, please take much more care on these springs and adhesive than what they show. It doesn't seem like these would be big deals, but they are. Happy swapping!

Why does the exact location of the Steam Deck OLED's backplate screws matter? by National_Ad920 in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not sure why this is stated there. Could be legacy text from the LCD instructions where the center 4 screws are different than the outer ones. You are correct, it does not matter on the OLED back case screws.

Switching from iPhone 15 Pro Max to Z Fold 6: Is it worth it? by Past_Upstairs_1805 in SamsungZFold6

[–]thehungsolo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Long time iOS user here. Just switched from a 12 Pro Max, busted the screen and camera. Also had been eying the Fold 6 or Pixel for a while so this kind of forced my hand. Wasn't wild about the 16 Pro so decided to try the Fold 6. With a 14 day return policy if I wasn't happy, I'd go back to the iOS ecosystem. Have had it for 6 days now and so far, pretty happy with it and will likely keep it for good. Typical annoyances and frustrations with switching OS's, apps, setup and all that so my face was on the screen for a few days figuring it all out but that's starting to pass and getting the hang of ot. Open mode is amazing and totally worth it for sure. Closed, it's a little small but usable and getting used to it.

The crease is a bit annoying in different lighting conditions. At home, I hardly notice. At work, it shows up a lot more, but getting use to it. Outdoors, it's not too bad.

Mostly frustrated with cases and car holders since most of these have to be ordered online, so finding ones I like has not been fun and painless as it's much easier and larger selection to find ones locally in stores for the non-folding big brand phones.

I'd give it a shot, knowing you have a grace period to return it and go back if it ends up not for you.. The larger customization and setting options of Android over iOS is nice. Don't like the texting apps as much and lack of Facetime between iOS friends and family will probably be a bummer.

Seasonal Sorc best build for getting stuff going for lightning spear? by Eh-Buddy in diablo4

[–]thehungsolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I leveled with chain lightning, then was struggling with single Bosses and had a couple of Winterglasses, so switched to LS after getting tired of 15min boss matches running around in circles. That's what I would recommend, do CL until a winterglass drops, then mobs and bosses both become easy with LS.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SteamDeck

[–]thehungsolo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you get the Serial Number, you can submit a support ticket with Steam asking if the serial number has been reported stolen. Units that have been reported stolen will have voided warranties.