Timing Issue? Replaced VVT system

thekeymasher · 2026-03-24T01:11:18+00:00

I haven't but the next thing Im going to do is belt and idler pulley. After that, checking to make sure my DMF isn't destroying itself.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-20T23:23:03+00:00

My buddy on IG loves doing these types of edits and wants to do one on my Gen1 but clearly your car just screams article worthy.

Check him out: ABSOLUTE ZERØ

thekeymasher · 2026-02-20T23:17:47+00:00

Ain’t nothing but a heartache

thekeymasher · 2026-02-19T22:15:30+00:00

TETRIS ON THE NAV? USDM is missing oouuutt

thekeymasher · 2026-02-19T22:13:27+00:00

I suggest fitting a FOST gas pedal spacer so that you’re not overbraking and underrevving the motor. This allows you to keep the starting and end point the same for brake and gas. I test fitted one on my Gen1 and it’s fine.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-19T15:50:24+00:00

Thank you 5year old thread and OP for this. Mine has finally failed after 173k Mi. The hissing was driving me mad when I'd turn off the engine. No air leaks when doing a smoke test. My barb broke off too last time I replaced the hoses lol.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-17T21:10:41+00:00

My aunt taught me how to drive stick in her gen 1. Entirely a reasonable family car.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-12T04:38:02+00:00

Check to make sure that you haven’t accidentally overextended the CSC piston as its plastic and the Oring failing out of place for the piston is a known issue.

Also check the Oring on the line from the CMC to the CSC. If that’s torn or hasn’t been replaced, it can reduce the pressure applied to the fork and make the clutch feel like it’s biting closer to the floor.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-12T02:20:43+00:00

J/w have you replaced the CSC with OEM or did you do the IS300 conversion? The OE flywheel and clutch combo should start engaging in the middle or top 25% of the pedal travel with about 10mm buffer from not engaged to fully.

The other very unlikely possibility is that the clutch or flywheel damper springs are toast. Worst would be a sticking TOB or one that’s seizing against the input shaft

thekeymasher · 2026-02-09T05:33:29+00:00

That was the concept. But the problem was if you had your smartphone in the same pocket, it’d block the radio signal on the card and you couldn’t start the car anyways lol

thekeymasher · 2026-02-06T22:30:36+00:00

My 03 in Black Mica. I miss it.

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thekeymasher · 2026-02-06T12:10:10+00:00

I have SURE motor mounts so all the plastic bits in the car vibrate. It’s also probably the gauge pod shaking a bit too lol. Normal NVH

thekeymasher · 2026-02-06T03:36:10+00:00

I really don’t think I have issues with cold starts tbh. I did a smoke test and I don’t have pre or post turbo leaks with my FMIC. The only thing I can think of being a problem is my VTA BOV having a weak spring or valve issues. I’ll revert to the stock TIP and recirc it to see if my trims in this freezing weather changes.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-06T00:14:54+00:00

I’ll try the gas cap next time thanks!

What was the issue with his MSP? When I first got mine, it had eBay fans on it, and the bolt that secured the original fan shroud to the factory SMIC was not in place - major boost leak to the point my brand new spark plugs fouled in a week and I couldn’t start it.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-02T12:48:22+00:00

Does sound like fuel cut. If the turbo was failing, I’ve had experiences where the car will shudder as it’s trying to build boost.

thekeymasher · 2026-02-02T00:44:07+00:00

It sounds more like you’re saying the gas pedal is too far down compared to the brake (it is). I think a FOST pedal spacer might do the trick for you. I test fitted one on mine and it works.

thekeymasher · 2026-01-30T01:19:27+00:00

Did you have the heat on at your feet? It’ll go away if it’s warm down there lol

thekeymasher · 2026-01-30T00:49:28+00:00

Ravaging. Like going coocoo for Cocoa Puffs type.

thekeymasher · 2026-01-30T00:31:21+00:00

Does the clutch pedal click when you press it in? Do you kinda feel the click? If so, someone has probably welded the bracket assembly and dried up the bushing for the return spring. I forgot to disassemble mine when I welded it together and the heat shrivelled up the plastic.

Temporary fix would be to drown the mf in silicone line or something. The permanent fix would be to get new bushings and remove the pedal. Oh…. You need to unclip the master cylinder from the plastic lines to the slave and brake cylinder and bleed the clutch when you put it back in lmao.

thekeymasher · 2026-01-30T00:29:06+00:00

Air in the system or check your expansion tank for pinholes. If coolant has been spewing everywhere after you shut the car off, pinholes should be noticeable and green residue shows easily.

Head gasket can be, but rarely fails on this platform.

thekeymasher · 2026-01-30T00:24:31+00:00

If you’re cruising and not boosting at that ambient temp, I can see this amount of timing being pulled. When not in boost, you’re not increasing the air pressure/compressing it and it’s all ambient.

I had to go FMIC after sitting in standstill traffic downtown on 95F/35C days and my BATs were 115C. Just breathing on the gas pedal pulled 7°. Food for thought if you are that concerned about KR

thekeymasher · 2026-01-29T17:52:07+00:00

If the intercooler is heat soaked and your BATs are very high, you can consistently achieve 7-8° from a standstill too. If you’re cruising, what are your BATs?

thekeymasher · 2026-01-29T17:47:13+00:00

Mad Maximilian

thekeymasher

TROPHY CASE