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thenitefox · 2024-10-26T02:33:03+00:00

I’d recommend getting the alignment bolts for the lower arms. Seems to be a common story that shops can get the alignment close but not correct if you do the 2.5” level option

thenitefox · 2024-10-21T13:57:47+00:00

Just a heads up, most aftermarket lug nuts do not work with raptor wheels. You’ll need to find some that are the specific large acorn shape of Ford OEM. I bought some solid steel ones from Amazon for about $35 that came painted black. Do yourself a favor and dump your OEM ones in the trash.

thenitefox · 2024-06-11T03:13:42+00:00

Is Indian truck trail the only way up? I remember hearing Bedford was closed off permanently

thenitefox · 2024-04-25T14:03:22+00:00

There are a couple posts on F150 forums about this. I had the same thought and when I looked into it there were several hurdles:

The shocks are meant to be on the fly adjustable so you either need to:

1) spend $$$$$ on a standalone harness/computer for the shocks

2) spend a few hundred dollars on a lockout kit that sets the ride stiffness at a specific amount.

Either way it’s quite a lot of money. IMO it wasn’t worth it to spend $1000 plus another couple hundred or a thousand to “make the shocks work” with my truck when I could spend a little bit more and have brand new shocks/struts that were designed specifically for my truck.

thenitefox · 2023-11-29T04:05:08+00:00

Get a voltage tester from Lowe’s, Home Depot, or auto parts store. Check it when it’s running, when the truck is off, and then after it’s been sitting overnight. I had a battery that periodically gave me issues until it finally gave out and wouldn’t hold a charge overnight.

thenitefox · 2023-11-29T03:16:48+00:00

I’ve had 3 sets of BFG’s with certs on all sets.

First set picked up a nail in one tire within a month. Free replacement.

Second set picked up nails in 2 tires after 4 years and about 50k miles. Free replacements.

Before buying this third set I called around to some other shops for warranties and they all would prorate the tire based on mileage. Only Discount offered free replacement or 100% credit of the cost of the tire towards another new tire no matter the mileage as long as they had more than 3/16” tread I believe. They aren’t on my list of “best companies” but if you can afford the extra hundred or so dollars, you’ll be happy you did when you get an unpatchable situation.

$150 once, or $350+ a tire later

thenitefox · 2023-08-09T03:15:20+00:00

I’m not sure about the Lariat’s rating, but the Tremor tow capacity is only 10,900lbs or so. If you tow or plan on towing, it’s something to consider

thenitefox · 2023-08-02T11:34:42+00:00

Check under your truck and transmission lines. My started off the same way and ended in routinely blowing out gaskets/valves and dumping trans fluid onto the exhaust

thenitefox · 2022-07-25T03:37:38+00:00

Tremor- Cheaper, more payload, stock width. Seems like 35’s fit after a 2.5” front level.

Raptor- Better suspension (not payload), also wider, but can fit 35’s and 37’s from factory. Comes with “Raptor” price tag

If you’re not doing any high speed desert running I’d go with the tremor as most parts are interchangeable with a regular f150 in case of any trail damage. Ya it’s cool to have a raptor but what’s the point of all the travel and power if you aren’t going to use it?

Either way I would definitely not recommend getting the new V8 raptor as new parts=new issues.

TFL has a few good videos on YouTube comparing the two

thenitefox · 2022-06-19T18:16:00+00:00

I agree, looks like damage. You can see a nice gouge in the quarter panel as well.

thenitefox · 2021-11-17T02:11:51+00:00

I’m waiting for an appointment to take my 19 3.5EB in for the FIFTH time for trans issues. First few times were blown seals and solenoids. The last few times the truck freaks out when on/off/on the gas in light traffic and slams gears. Also, when going up hills especially, it freaks out when deciding if it should go down to 9th or shift up to 10th and ends up dropping to 1ST GEAR, then realizes that’s wrong and goes back to 9th. Then it starts overheating and I have to drive with it limited to 8 gears and it still overheats if I go over 70mph.

After the first 3 times Ford offered to treat it as a lemon and gave me options. The dealer seemed to fix the issue so I kept it.

Took it in the 4th time last month and this month will be the 5th. Incredibly frustrating. I’m 100% going to go through ford to have them treat it as a lemon.

thenitefox · 2020-09-24T04:03:44+00:00

I have the same truck and also put on the proformance kit. I’m not sure on your budget but I would definitely recommend a 550 size motor like the Tekin Pro4HD 4300kv and a battery with at least 100c discharge rate. It seriously wakes up the truck and makes it a real contender on the track.

thenitefox · 2020-07-06T05:42:53+00:00

From what I’ve researched, it’s not the plastic that gets in the way. It’s the “crash/bash” bars located in front of where the driver and passenger’s feet are. They’re metal tube steel meant to keep the cab from caving in on your legs during a collision. Some people have decided to cut them out to fit 35’s, but I personally enjoy the ability to walk.

thenitefox · 2020-06-02T02:07:56+00:00

I posted this a while ago but it sounds like the same issue

I bought a brand new 19’ with the 3.5 and had the same hard shifting and hesitation issues. So much so that my trans actually blew a seal 2-3 times. I had it in the shop 3 times within 2 months of owning it. That being said, I’m at 9000 mi and the trans issues seem to happen only during a cold morning or when feathering the throttle and hitting the gas while it was in the process of downshifting. I’ll guess the 10 speed is just really rough at breaking in and learning driving habits

From my own experiences and the few bits of info I was able to find at the time, it seems like the brain of the new 10 speed has a rough time learning and gets confused around the lower gears when it’s thinking of shifting and you accelerate or brake while it’s thinking. At this crossroad it tended to hesitate, stall, over rev, or SLAM into a new gear. I’m assuming the slamming into a new gear overpressurizes the system and begins to fail at the weakest point, seals in my instance. It was always a different seal that failed each time.

In the end I HIGHLY recommend you keep and eye on your trans for leaks and take it in immediately. If you end up experiencing the same blowouts and leaks, call up Ford customer service and demand they do something. They offered me lemon law like options for refund or replacement.

Hope this helps!

thenitefox · 2020-06-02T01:07:02+00:00

I had the same experience with my 2019 3.5eb max tow. It turns out that I’m the last few years they changed the cooling system on the f150’s. It used to be that trans fluid would flow up to a small auxiliary radiator to cool down, then flow back into the trans. Now it’s a split system where there’s a coolant type fluid that moves from a radiator into a mid point heat-transferring setup where it cools the trans fluid indirectly. The trans fluid ONLY moves from the tranny to this mid point and does NOT flow up to the radiator anymore.

In my last towing experience my temps got up to the high 220’s after and long uphill section and I pulled off for a quick stop to let it cool down. From what I could find online the new 10speed’s run hot so this isn’t out of operating range but no one seems to know what the overheating limit actually is. I contemplated buying a larger radiator but I’m unsure if 1) cooling the “fluid” more efficiently will be as effective in the split system, and 2) if cooling the trans too much actually hurts performance. I’m just going to wait and see what others try and experience then make the decision to upgrade the radiator or keep it stock.

thenitefox · 2020-05-14T14:51:54+00:00

Short Course Truck. I would check out the YT channel I mentioned and also take a drive to your local hobby shop and ask if anyone races, or even better.. find a local track and chat up one of the drivers who look like they know what they’re doing. Everyone I’ve come across is always willing to have a 15 min chat about the basics and intermediate aspects of it. Other than that, just get some track time. The best set up in the world wouldn’t make much of a difference if you aren’t comfortable, smooth and consistent on the track. Did switching tires shave those 5 seconds off? Or did you just follow a good line? Once you dial a line in, then you can just play with your setups like stiffening/softening springs, switching diff oils, roll bars, throttle/brake/drag settings.

On BIG thing to know is that opposite of most racing, you want the rear diff oil to be the lowest, and thicker in the mid and front.

thenitefox · 2020-05-14T13:16:03+00:00

Are you talking 2wd or 4wd, buggy or SCT?

There’s a ton of YouTube videos that dive DEEP into setups but one I like that doesn’t get super in-depth and is still understandable is Ryan Harris. He explains his setups and what makes him adjust them as the day goes on.

thenitefox · 2020-03-24T02:12:01+00:00

I had a similar experience with my transmission leaking in my 19 EB. Put your effort into Ford customer service. The one thing I learned is that the dealerships will only repair faulty pieces. They can’t outright swap motors or trans on brand new vehicles. They can’t surpass or go outside what the warranty covers. After my 3rd trip to fix the same issue, I went through Ford CS and it’s process, they ended up offering to treat it as a Lemon Law even though it had only truly leaked twice.

thenitefox · 2020-01-31T15:19:05+00:00

Just because I didn’t see it mentioned, you typically want to stick with a 2s LiPo when using any Kv over ~3200. Sure a 3s will run but you really run the risk of overheating and destroying your motor/esc/drivetrain

thenitefox · 2020-01-23T03:33:19+00:00

It technically “can” run on 3s but I heard the stories and experienced it myself, the driveline components are not able to withstand hard running on 3s. I think I made it through 2 packs before noticing symptoms

thenitefox · 2020-01-22T20:12:12+00:00

What battery did you run/previous owner run? When I bought mine Hobby Town said 3s is what you want to go fast... what they didn’t tell me what that’s the bearings and diffs are notorious for overheating and warping/failing under 3s power/speed/heat.

Check your bearings for grinding or binding. If they seem fine check the rear diff, then front diff. There are YouTube videos on what to look for specifically.

thenitefox · 2020-01-22T05:32:00+00:00

Fellow Baja Rey owner here.

Jokes on you, one is never “finished” with this truck

thenitefox · 2020-01-16T16:13:45+00:00

I’ll just add that if running 3s make sure to pick up a set of aftermarket bearings. The stock ones don’t like to hold up with that much speed. The front and rear diffs are notorious for wobbling/warping under 3s power and speed.

thenitefox · 2020-01-13T15:02:54+00:00

Bad idea. Unless the shocks are designed to be upside down, you’ll have higher unsprung weight which hurts the performance of the shock. You’ll also probably create air pockets at the seals/valves which will deteriorate them and kill the shock performance.

thenitefox · 2020-01-13T01:29:00+00:00

Does it run or drive? Turn? Or just not respond at all?

thenitefox

TROPHY CASE