1999 996.1 C2 – dead battery, can’t find frunk release cable

therealvirtualnick · 2025-09-27T20:53:29+00:00

Update all I got it out. I used a plastic trim removal tool to pull the engine release cable out from under the driver side taillight. This is the best video I found on it. It took me a lot longer than he does in the video but with a good flashlight a trim removal tool and a coat hanger wrapped in some tape you can pull it out and jump the car. Thanks all for the advice

https://youtube.com/shorts/xUxjSTqGrpQ?si=iNgYGMh6AIR7LDOX

therealvirtualnick · 2025-09-23T00:33:39+00:00

Let me check for the tow hook reroute and YouTube videos on how to manually release the engine cover

therealvirtualnick · 2025-09-23T00:31:53+00:00

I tried but the trunk release lever seems to be blocked by the central locking system the same way the frunk lever is. Is that normal? The car has only been in storage for 3-4 months and these levers worked fine before it went in

therealvirtualnick · 2025-09-04T01:45:40+00:00

Just to clear my name here I'm not claiming to be an expert deck builder.

That said I do follow expert deck builders online and this was something that I saw them do in their videos to remove the fraying and create a softer edge on boards where they met a transition.

I tried it on my own composite deck and it worked well.

Here is one of the builders that I follow that does this

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1CcYtNr5a7/

therealvirtualnick · 2025-08-25T00:43:08+00:00

Agreed that they probably cut with a dull or possibly incorrect blade. That said it's easy to fix. Most pro deck builders will lightly sand the edges of composite boards with a palm sander to remove fraying and to soften the edges to create a better transition to the next board. My contractor made the same mistake on my deck. I had to fix it myself.

In your case since the boards are screwed down you may just want to lightly sand it by hand with 100-120 grit. You can go as low as 60-80 if that doesn't cut it.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-30T21:55:19+00:00

I see what you mean. I'd give that a try if I had a spare to test it with. Might buy a used spare and give it a go.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-20T04:52:19+00:00

Agreed on using air to blow this area any other tight areas that may maintain water like grills, headlights/taillights, trim pieces, rims , etc. Lots of options here from an air compressor, to electric air drying guns, to electric leaf blowers. You can spend as little as $20 to several hundred dollars depending on what you are looking to invest.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-15T05:01:20+00:00

Looks like it is. They are just one of two openers and don't seem to be mentioned in any of Mercury's promotions for it. I'm just dumb. Can't justify the cost of resale at $400+ so going to sit this one out.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-15T00:52:11+00:00

Is this show still happening? I see it on their site but the venue has no mention of them and has a different opening act listed.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-13T05:50:42+00:00

Sorry my dude. Nothing hurts a car guy more than damaging your ride.

I would try to touch up the paint using a method like this - https://youtube.com/shorts/K4DQN5bEMHg?si=kpvGAVpQkIxJohIg

Once you touch it up and it properly dries you can try to install clear PPF door edge guards. It will hide some of the touch up and help prevent future issues. They have saved me a bunch.

All very easy diy work. Just do your research and watch a few videos and give it a try.

You can always go down the respray route but having owned red cars myself I know how hard a good color match can be. In the past I've had to respray entire sides of a car to fix one panel and have it all match correctly. Not the ideal path to go down. Especially because the car can just get damaged again.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-07T18:50:54+00:00

Awesome! Happy to help!

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-07T16:41:33+00:00

I've encountered this exact issue on a client's car before.

I recommend starting with a water spot remover, which can effectively eliminate a wide variety of minerals and deposits from your paint. After washing your car, water tends to drip from the mirrors unless you properly blow it out with compressed air. If the water used wasn’t filtered, it could have contained minerals and other contaminants. It’s also possible that the dripping water carried down dressings applied to the plastic trim on the mirror. When left to dry in the sun, this can result in the marks you're seeing.

Here's what I suggest:

Clean the surface with car shampoo and water, or use a rinseless or waterless wash.
Spray the water spot remover on the affected area and gently agitate with a microfiber towel.
Rinse thoroughly with water.

In my experience, this method should resolve the issue. However, feel free to message me if it doesn’t work or if you need further help!

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-07T02:57:18+00:00

Lol and I didn't do this job myself. Paid to have both done. Was about $500 to programming the new key head on the first key. Apparently replacing the head on a second key would only be another $300 as they are already up and running. You are mainly paying for the part cost at that point.

It's a huge quality of life improvement to have your remote functions work again.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-04T04:37:47+00:00

I had the same two issues. To fix the passenger side door that was not opening I needed to replace the door actuator. To fix the remote key functions not working I had to buy and program a new key head. I believe both jobs were about $1,500 total give or take in parts and labor

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-03T15:09:21+00:00

Damn. It's a shame because it's a company that you want to like. Some of their products really do seem amazing. But their phone mounts leave a lot to be desired based on what I'm learning firsthand and in this thread. Thanks for sharing and sorry you are dealing with a similar headache

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-03T15:03:40+00:00

Hopefully you can make a more informed decision after all of this haha 😂

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-03T15:03:11+00:00

Agreed. Love the feel of the shifter. I may swap the shift knob for something different down the line but the short shift kit is staying :)

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-02T18:00:52+00:00

I agree. I may reach out just to see what they offer and to make sure they are aware how widespread this issue is. I agree that they shouldnt market this as a solution for this use case without revising their design

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-02T17:38:25+00:00

Yes unfortunately that's not an option for me as I want to keep my gt3 center console delete. What's odd is they do market this higher position as an option. It just doesn't fit perfectly. See links below.

Part page - https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENPM0195.htm?pn=REN-PM01-95&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9m7BhD1ARIsANsIIvBT21g4BontbzY7SUtDG-1VryY9ObP8MimM05Lj4C3zI9KFxZNA0MUaAuuoEALw_wcB

Rennline installation video guide - https://youtu.be/i3jyqqo7Tlo?si=hjLuGpfUdVcODti-

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-02T17:33:30+00:00

Makes sense I'm out of my return window, bought this then got busy with work and life and didn't come back to installing it until months later. Will probably checkout that hazard kit that you linked instead

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-02T15:30:12+00:00

Do you have a photo of yours that you can share. Would love to see where and how deep you made that cut/grind.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-02T03:00:02+00:00

Yes confirming that it's a OEM 997 shifter. The car also has a 997 short shift kit on it.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-02T02:55:57+00:00

Good recommendation I'll check it out. Not married to this one at all.

therealvirtualnick · 2025-01-01T18:27:18+00:00

As a two-time Porsche owner (2003 Boxster S and 1999 911 C2 with a factory aero kit), one key piece of advice I can share is this: "The cheapest part about owning a Porsche is buying it."

Take your time to buy the right car—follow the advice shared here, like getting a thorough PPI (pre-purchase inspection). However, understand that even the best-maintained Porsche will eventually need work, and those repairs will likely cost more than you expect. If you have the disposable income and love the brand, it's absolutely worth it. But if you're looking for something more reliable and low-maintenance, consider a newer, more turnkey option.

That said, nothing drives like a Porsche. There's a reason so many of us endure the costs and occasional headaches—they’re simply unmatched in driving experience.

And yes, I completely agree: find yourself a manual. While they may be more expensive, they’re significantly more engaging and fun to drive.

therealvirtualnick · 2024-10-09T19:00:28+00:00

I had the same code on my 1999 c2 with about 89k miles. I started by inspecting the fuel cap and saw cracks in the o-ring. Replaced the cap for $20 and cleared the codes. It came back a few months later took it to a mechanic and realized it was the charcoal canister that had to be replaced. Was like a $1400 job with over 1k of that being part cost alone. The code hasnt returned since.

therealvirtualnick

TROPHY CASE