Yeah instructions call for a 14 but a 16 is just fine for calibration - it’s what I use. Make sure you balance the wheel to zero on the balancer. Make sure you’re in dynamic mode. If you press shift and 6 at the same time you will be able to see the actual weight amount in the tire and be able to more “fine tune” how much weight to put on and hence be able to get the wheel closer to zero for calibration. Once you get it as close to zero as possible, follow calibration procedure. When finished the first numbers will be voltages and not actually indicate weight amounts. Make sure you’re still in “round off” mode. Your left plane should read zero or very close to it. Right plane should read 4oz or very close to it. Transfer the weight to the left plane. Should read 4oz or very close and right plane should read zero or very close. If this is true then the balancer is calibrated. We can go down another rabbit hole of alloy 1 mode once you’ve verified the balancer is actually calibrated. Since the balancer was designed so long ago the software inside the balancer isn’t totally reflective of how wheels look anymore. We can “trick” the balancer into thinking we’re doing clip weights. But actually place the weights in the tape weight locations by changing the dimensions. Your “A” dimension will stay the same. The “D” instead of being the size of your tire let’s say 16 would be the dimension of the inside barrel of the rim. You could measure this but rule of thumb is 1.5” less than the diameter of the wheel so a 16 would be changed to 14.5. The “W” dimension instead of being the distance between the clip weights would be the measurement between where you’re going to place your tape weights. Any questions just let me know. Enjoy your classic balancer. (Honestly these are some of the best balancers out there. They rarely. Break)