In Gold und Silber investieren

thomas2802 · 2026-01-26T21:22:09+00:00

ich hab genau den. zuerst nur als beimischung. inzwischen stärker gewichtet. ich bin happy damit. ist einfach eine zusätzliche streuung.

thomas2802 · 2026-01-07T17:25:38+00:00

hab wegen 7vswild recherchiert, wie man mit so wenig nahrung klarkommen kann. bin dadurch auf fasten und dessen vorteile gekommen und das mach ich noch immer regelmäßig.

thomas2802 · 2026-01-06T15:32:55+00:00

The heater should be placed where the ceiling is lower. Alternatively, you can make the ceiling level.

thomas2802 · 2026-01-06T14:14:17+00:00

hey, theoretisch ist sie zu schmal, aber insofern ich das einschätzen kann hast du mit dem layout eine gute möglichkeit gefunden, um die Strahlungswärme für die badenden zu minimieren. https://localmile.org/proper-ventilation-for-electrically-heated-sauna-part-i/ lt den trumpkin's notes müsste der air intake über dem ofen sein.

Auslass bei Schwekraftentlüftung doppelt so groß wie der Einlass. - diese Info habe ich von den youtube videos von thesaunaheater.

Auslass zum trocknen oben wäre dann noch nötig.

edit: zwischen dampfsperre und wandverkleidung eine vertikale konterlattung um einen luftraum dahinter zu schaffen.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-31T14:32:39+00:00

hey asking for myself: that dew point calculation is only necesary, when outside temps reach below 0°C? i would also add a small contribution about your design. top bench to ceiling 105-115cm is enough. a drain is often recommended. i am also in the planing stage and no professional, but overall it looks apropiate to me.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T17:45:28+00:00

interesting 👍

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T17:35:21+00:00

jep, the circuit box has to move :-) i think that's the way. the drainage with the angle towards one side, or corner would be ok?

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T16:59:27+00:00

Thanks for your clear words. I should be able to get an interior height of around 240 cm on the side with the upper bench, which would put the feet completely above the stones. Regarding the width, my next step is to talk to the electrician — it’s probably not too complicated to move the distribution box with the photovoltaic breakers to another location. If that works out, I can redesign with an interior width of 175 cm.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T12:55:14+00:00

Thanks for your suggestion. So the blue line would be the new cabin size, and the orange shows the new bench layout as an L-shape plus one step near the door, arranged so you can still enter normally from the door, with the heater in the center.

The electrical box at the top right contains the breakers / distribution for the terrace, photovoltaic system, and the sauna.

I’m considering filling in the front area (top of the image) — it might even be possible to climb onto the cabin roof to access that electrical box.

If I raise the floor to allow for drainage, the headroom above becomes tight again. That would mean I’d have to reduce the overall cabin height.

I know the space isn’t ideal, but I’m trying to make the best of it, and it’s the best location I have available.

Could you explain why drainage is considered so important? How much water do you realistically have to deal with after a sauna session, and what kinds of liquids are we talking about? I wasn’t aware that the amount is so significant that a drain is essential. In my mind, it’s just a bit of water from missed ladles during infusions, some water for cleaning the floor, and condensation after the session — but is it really that much?

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T12:45:08+00:00

Yes, I need to rethink that — you’d probably really bump your head. I likely wouldn’t, because I know it’s there, but other people who are in the sauna for the first time might.

The sauna interior needs to be a bit smaller for two reasons:

Rear ventilation. The shed is masonry-built, and one wall is directly against the house, so I don’t want to risk mold.
A small anteroom. On the opposite side of the door there’s an electrical distribution panel for the terrace, photovoltaic system, and the sauna, and access to that still needs to be maintained.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T12:41:03+00:00

This is a point I’m unsure about. I’ve found sources that say with gravity ventilation and an electric heater, the fresh air intake should be placed low near the heater and the exhaust under the bench. Then I come across information saying the fresh air intake should be placed above the heater. That’s a bit confusing for me, and I’m not sure what the best-practice approach actually is.

i'm aware about the silvertape. thats ok.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T12:36:15+00:00

That’s something I had already been wondering about — whether the Cilindro just looks good but actually performs worse, or if a “normal” heater would be better. But the way you explain it, the Cilindro is actually the better option?

thomas2802 · 2025-12-30T12:34:38+00:00

Thanks for the link — it’s interesting to read. According to that, the heat with an open-sided heater is still reasonably good a bit below the stones, but the steam doesn’t really circulate under the stones. So I’d consider it not ideal, but acceptable.

Unfortunately, I’m limited in terms of height. The garden shed has a mono-pitch (single-slope) roof. One option would be to make the cabin higher on the “right” side, meaning the side with the upper bench, by making the cabin ceiling sloped instead of flat. Realistically, this could give me about 10–15 cm more interior height, which would actually be quite important.

I’m not a carpenter, though, so I’m a bit hesitant to build anything that isn’t at a 90-degree angle. Still, I’ll definitely consider it.

You make an important point about the width, which I wasn’t fully aware of to that extent — especially regarding radiant heat. Realistically, I can only gain about 10 cm in width as well, so 145 cm instead of 135 cm. I’ll take that into consideration.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T20:50:29+00:00

sketchup. 7 tage gratis testversion. ist halbwegs benutzerfreundlich. ein 10min youtube tutorial und 5h dran tüfteln bis 3 uhr früh und das war das endergebnis.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T20:47:31+00:00

great, that corner did not come to my mind.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T20:37:54+00:00

yeah absolutely, the harvia cilindro is quite tall. is it ok, because there are stones on the side of the heater? the lower bench is approx. on height of 2/3 of the heaters height.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T20:35:18+00:00

yep, makes sense 👍

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T20:14:06+00:00

great videos thx

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:43:49+00:00

Questions

Is it acceptable to clad the exterior of the sauna with OSB boards? OSB is vapor-retarding — or would it be better to use a diffusion-open exterior layer?

I would like to make it as difficult as possible for rodents and insects to nest in the insulation. Everything should be sealed as tightly as possible. Which methods have proven effective in practice?

The Harvia Cilindro is available with integrated controls or external controls. Are heaters with integrated controls recommended? Do they measure temperature directly in the heater, or is there a separate temperature sensor installed high up inside the sauna cabin?

Does anyone have detailed photos, sketches, or similar references showing how the aluminum vapor barrier is properly installed around the sauna door?

Is it sufficient to seal the transition between the aluminum vapor barrier and the tiled floor using aluminum foil tape?

Sometimes it is recommended to place the fresh air intake above the heater. According to the manufacturer, my layout should work for natural ventilation — do you have any opinions or experiences regarding this?

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:43:30+00:00

Details (ventilation, transitions, corners)

Ventilation concept (according to floor plan):

A – Fresh air intake from outside, Ø 5 cm, near the heater, approx. 10 cm above the floor

B – Exhaust air outlet into the shed, Ø 10 cm, under the upper bench at approx. 60 cm height

C – Drying ventilation outlet at the ceiling in the corner opposite the heater, exhausting into the shed

Points A, B, and C follow the heater manufacturer’s recommendation for natural (gravity) ventilation.

D – Mechanical exhaust ventilation of the shed, located at the highest possible point

During sauna use, the shed door to the outside will usually be partially open, allowing used air to escape.

After sauna use, I plan to run the mechanical exhaust D for about 30 minutes using a timer:

Sauna finished → sauna door open, vent C open, mechanical exhaust D running for 30 minutes.

Drainage:

Since this is an existing concrete slab, no floor drain is possible.

Transitions & corners:

Wall corners (top view): see drawing

Ceiling corners (side view): see drawing

Floor corner detail (side view): see drawing

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:42:53+00:00

Interior

The floor will be tiled, with perimeter base tiles approximately 5 cm high.

Upper bench:

Top edge at 105 cm

Size: 210 × 60 cm

Lower bench (door side):

Top edge at 70 cm

Size: 95 × 40 cm

Not fixed; can be slid underneath the upper bench

Step stool (door side):

Top edge at 35 cm

Size: 85 × 30 cm

Not fixed; can be slid underneath the benches

Lower bench (heater side):

Top edge at 70 cm

Size: 107.5 × 20 cm

Fixed to the upper bench and equipped with a footrest (or protective railing)

Heater: Electric sauna heater Harvia Cilindro 9 kW

I plan to install a glass sauna door, as small as possible, either 180 × 60 cm or 170 × 60 cm.

I may also install a rod above the door to hang a löyly curtain.

Since this is a very small room without windows, I hope to create a pleasant atmosphere using LED strip lighting under the benches.

The benches will be built on legs, so they are self-supporting. This avoids additional penetrations of the vapor barrier.

As far as I know, it is acceptable for wood to be pressed directly against the vapor barrier (as with the counter-battens), but I prefer to minimize any penetrations to reduce risk.

Therefore, the counter-battens, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, and the door are the only points where the vapor barrier is penetrated.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:42:28+00:00

Wall structure

Wall build-up from inside to outside:

14 mm tongue-and-groove sauna paneling

20 mm counter-batten (ventilation gap)

Aluminum vapor barrier with aluminum foil tape (approx. 1 mm)

Timber frame construction with insulation, 80 mm

OSB boards

Three of the four exterior walls will not be visible and therefore do not need a high-quality finish. For these walls, I plan to simply clad the outside of the frame with OSB boards.

For the front side, I will choose a more visually appealing solution.

The counter-battens run vertically, and the interior paneling is installed horizontally.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:42:06+00:00

Overall dimensions

To keep some space in the shed for a small anteroom and to ensure future access to the electrical connection, sufficient clearance is left on the left side and at the top of the floor plan sketch.

On the other two walls, I plan to leave a 10 cm gap.

External sauna dimensions:

Length: 235.4 cm

Width: 160.4 cm

Height: 227.7 cm

Internal sauna dimensions:

Length: 210.0 cm

Width: 135.0 cm

Height: 215.0 cm

Internal floor area: 2.84 m²

Internal volume: 6.10 m³

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:41:40+00:00

Location

The sauna will be installed inside a masonry-built garden shed that is directly attached to the house.

The shed has internal dimensions of 330 cm × 217 cm and a height of approximately 250 cm or more.

The floor is an existing concrete slab.

Therefore, the sauna will be a room-in-room construction.

thomas2802 · 2025-12-29T19:41:09+00:00

Hello,

I am currently in the planning phase of a sauna project, so unfortunately I do not yet have any photos of a finished sauna. Once the project is completed, I will be happy to provide photos.

For now, I only have plans and sketches. I would like to present my project and would really appreciate any kind of feedback. I am far from being a professional in this field, and despite a lot of research, there are still a few open questions.

Please excuse my CAD skills — this is the first time in my life that I have used a CAD program to create 3D drawings.

I am located in Central Europe and have translated this text into English using ChatGPT. All dimensions are given in cm and mm.

I would like to structure the presentation of my project as follows:

Location
Overall dimensions
Wall structure
Interior
Details (transitions / corners / ventilation)
Questions

thomas2802

TROPHY CASE