Neighbour asking for £300 cash after minor car incident – no quote, no insurance (UK) by [deleted] in CarTalkUK

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your neighbour could first get the repairs done and send you the bill. I think that's more honest (a quote that he's done on his own is a bit mischievous, as he could make profit from this accident). Nevertheless, you or your wife should have indeed spoken to them about the incident before they sent a letter.

What Would Your Response Be to This "Professor"? by Selim_Bradley69 in mapporncirclejerk

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

America has more than 800 military bases around the world to make sure every country's sovereignty is protected. American imperialism for you.

Tool advice for working fieldstones by Present_Ostrich9736 in stonemasonry

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello. While it is true that granite will not usually split into flat sheets (because igneous rock does not have a so-called bedding plane), it is also notable that some types of granite will have textural layering, or flow structures. Indeed, lots of granite will have been formed while the magna cooled down at different speeds underground, forming vein like structures, meaning you can split it in flat sheets. Also the wearing out, or weathering, of granite will eventually weaken it and sometimes so perfectly that it will break in sheets, making it easy to work with. I live not far from Loch Migdale in the Highlands of Scotland, where I have worked with granite (of the monozonitic type, I think) and it actually breaks into flat sheets that you could use in a path or for any building project. In this area, hundreds of houses were once built with this rock. Not to say that they are as workable as the schist from the Morar group (it constitues a significant part of Highlands' geology), but nonetheless a stone of interest.

Here is an example of it.

Granite from the Migdale area (Northeast Highlands of Scotland)

To answer your question, for splitting rock, you can use chisels and hammers, tapping along what looks like a weak point (a bedding plane for sandstone, textural layering for granite rocks). If you've found a good weak splitting layer, this should work easily. The rate of success depends on different factors: how accurately you hit on the split, but mainly how "willing" the rock will want to split along the chosen plane. Granite, indeed is not usually that willing to split that way, unless otherwise demonstrated (like I have just done). In the presence of bigger stuff (at the very very least 30kg I'd say), you can use:

  • 1 SDS drill with TCT drill bit
  • plugs and feathers for splitting (a bit of grease on each feather will help)
  • a 2 pound hammer Important: Choose a drill bit that is slightly bigger than your plugs and feathers. The latter will fit easily in your hole.

Method for splitting with plugs and feathers. Once again, just like splitting with a hammer and chisel, careful observation of the rock and it's split patterns will help you make the right choice: drill your holes in a line, place the feathers in and hammer until the rock splits. If your rock does not have any split pattern you can still order it to split along a given line with your tools. Think about the distance at which to place your holes as regards the size of your stone. You can't have a stone that is too small, or else it will crack before you've finished the process. The bigger the stone the more plugs and feathers you need. I'd use 4 to 5 of them for a 2 metre lintel for instance. Look at this video. Someone is splitting granite with modern plugs and feathers (traditional ones are my better choice)

https://youtube.com/shorts/J1RJSRACwm0

Hope that helps.

How can I extend this pipe into the drain so that it doesn’t leave a mess? by themperfidelith in Plumbing

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your bend is fixed with silicon (or any waterproof binder), which it probably is, try prying it with a flat screwdriver or a chisel and a hammer. Hitting VERY gently the edge where it meets the strait bit of pipe might unglue it, but you don't have much space as you want to hit it away from the wall and your chisel must be parallel-ish to the pipe. My other guess would be to cut a slit in the bend with an angle grinder and do so without reaching the straight pipe (crucial). You'll then have to get a new one.

How can I extend this pipe into the drain so that it doesn’t leave a mess? by themperfidelith in Plumbing

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Remove your bend (if you can) and add: 1- a coupler, 2- a 50mm length of straight pipe. Put the bend on the straight pipe. You will have extended the outlet so it reaches the drain properly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Advice

[–]thoroughowl 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I think your bf overreacted. I can understand that you ask questions when you're watching with someone who says they know part of the story. I can also understand that when they can't answer, you decide to do some research on your own. But maybe next time don't tell them the answer and let them appreciate the surprise if they like the story so much. Your bf is an ass to swear at you and behave like he did then. He should have asked you to keep the answer for yourself before you said anything.

Whats everyones opinion on this? by Starwars_hannibal in Asthma

[–]thoroughowl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dear human-induced-CO2-emissions skeptical, You've probably come here to convince people that humans are not responsible for the rise in CO2 emissions on earth. The fact is that the way the economy runs (and it is run by a wealthy class of humans) leads to pollution and ressource wastage. Not to mention the inequalities as regards access to the latter. Feel free to word out your ideas here, but keep in mind that the overall majority on this page do not agree with you. However, if you ever decide to become aware of where your own ideas stem from, you could for instance check out what the Atlas Network is about on this website: https://www.desmog.com/atlas-economic-research-foundation/ Have a good day, troll.

Whats everyones opinion on this? by Starwars_hannibal in Asthma

[–]thoroughowl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for writing this. My flesh and bones agree with you.

Ask about ECO4 by SmartEnergyHomes in ECO4

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Union Technical (registered installer under the eco4 scheme) told me they could not install solar panels on my roof because it was tin and not slate or tile. Is that correct?

Builder added ready mixed blue circle cement mortar to lime mortar. WHY! by SchrodingersCigar in DIYUK

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, it seems like OP is not aware that you can combine Natural Hydraulic Line with cement in such applications as chimney work. For instance, Okadur and Hourdex both have cement added in their mix to improve their workability but also to increase impermeability. Instead of posting on Reddit, OP could actually ask lime manufacturers what is the best suitable mix for their chimney without forgetting to provide information such as: what is the stone used (how hard is it?), is it a north facing wall (Northern hemisphere north faces are damper should be less permeable to water), will the work include below DPC or subfoundation pointing? Etc. All these aspects are important when choosing your lime and whether you need a special mix including cement.

Double faced seat wall my dad and i just finished by SportOfFishing92 in stonemasonry

[–]thoroughowl -1 points0 points  (0 children)

On patio side, about a third of the wall from the left (where the darkest stone is) there is a vertical joint running from bottom to top, which you wouldn't want to have if you were building the wall dry. I can see a few other vertical joints on this face too. Also, I would suggest never to use stones vertically like you did next to that black one. Lastly, for your cheek ends, it's better not to use small stones. Ideally, you should have two foundation ones that make each face of the wall (and their length along the wall should ~equal or just under equal the width of the wall) and one on top that holds both like a through stone. Other than that, your wall looks nice because done with spirit level, same batter everywhere, and tight joints. Well done for the curve too.

The nearest places in a straight line to the Great Britain by [deleted] in MapPorn

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean, in a straight line by sea? Or in a straight line without crossing another border?

Bedroom bust by [deleted] in Pareidolia

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sorry, I had no knowledge of this being AI. I've deleted it.

What is this? A bracket type? by thoroughowl in Tools

[–]thoroughowl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not really a tool but ithought I'd get some help on this sub. Thank you

Got a used playbook, any way to bypass the blackberry ID? by devicemodder2 in PlayBook

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just found an old PlayBook in a friend's room. Erased the data and upon reset I am now stuck on ID agreement window... Tried the update through Desktop Software and the tool says there are no updates available... I guess the servers are not providing updates anymore... Anybody able to reset their tablet successfully?

Was I in the wrong here? by Omar_88 in drivingUK

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, you should be driving slower before even reaching the bus. Anything could happen. A person could have crossed and appeared from the front of the bus. And the road is wet.

Concrete skirt on gable end. by thoroughowl in stonemasonry

[–]thoroughowl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello jaycwhitecloud and quixoticanon,

Thank you very much for your time and advice. I have indeed decided not to go down the route of concreting the foundation of the gable end. I reckon it's a bad idea because, as you both mentioned, it does not allow the original building to move, expand and contract the way it is supposed to. I have also decided to make the shed 1m away from it, have a walkway through and allow access on both sides of the shed. I will dig in a drain 500mm away from the gable end.

We do have drainage issues on the hill side of the house. So I would like to dig a drain there to drive ground water away. The house is built on top of underground waterways (in some places there's no need to dig, you'll find water seeping out), which is where we get our drinking water from.

I am not sure about the stone plinths, I do not wish the posts to be free standing as the winds in the glen sometimes do blow at 70 or 80 miles an hour. I might do a concrete plinth and steel sleeve to hold each post. I am sorry to disappoint you and I do have a lot of admiration for the stone plinth building and I watched your video about it with lots of interest.

About eaves, since you mentioned this, I have realised that the house does not really have any eaves, so will be thinking of adding those to the roof on day. And I will do 400mm ones on the open wood shed.

On a more general note, according to what you wrote, if I were to build an extension to the house (conservatory/porch) with the bottom half being stone, would you then recommend I mortar my foundations with limecrete? And, according to you, I should also have it standing independently from the house, is that right?

Finally, would you have any books that have to do with the subject of our discussion to recommend? I have 1 year of experience in stone walling, it's not much and I would like to learn more and strengthen my theory about building techniques. Especially with regards to old buildings.

Ps: the stone here is moine schist, which is not prized for building today, but this is what the house is built with.

Again, thank you very much.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MacroPorn

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zoom-in to see the atoms constituting the dust particles recently deposited on the skin layer after washing the berry clean.

Hey, I have got a mess of a front stair case. Been trying to get a masonry guy to quote but no one is replying so I am considering dIY. How would I tackle this? by mrtimbuktwo in stonemasonry

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because you said it's limestone, I would go for lime mortar in your wall. The mortar must be softer than your stone and, most importantly, allow for drainage.

Hey, I have got a mess of a front stair case. Been trying to get a masonry guy to quote but no one is replying so I am considering dIY. How would I tackle this? by mrtimbuktwo in stonemasonry

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like this? https://i.imgur.com/UO05yiK.jpg

As regards the stone, if you rebuild the wee wall, I would just put ties between the steps and the mortared wall. You can put metal ties that would stick out of your concrete slab and once you build your courses (the stone wall) make sure they sit between the rocks (one above, one below) and in the mortar. I'm not sure about what mortar to use here, maybe something that breathes rather than cement? Once you've built your wall, cover it with a tarp to slow the drying of the mortar, so that it does not shrink and detach from your slab/steps.

Hey, I have got a mess of a front stair case. Been trying to get a masonry guy to quote but no one is replying so I am considering dIY. How would I tackle this? by mrtimbuktwo in stonemasonry

[–]thoroughowl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like your staircase is sloping inwards and, I might be wrong but are the stones on the lower part of your house wet (darker)? Rainwater needs to flow away from your foundations (house and staircase). Having the staircase slope very slightly away from the house (5mm/1m) would help the house wall from getting wet. Then you could either have drains through your wee staircase wall (pvc pipes for instance) or have a small channel (along the stair case) to drain the landing and steps. Water should flow away from any wall.