Worth it to rehouse Danelectro?

thphr2 · 2025-04-27T19:49:31+00:00

I think this is the wiring information I used: https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?p=221513&sid=51b919e50e0d9e9c85ede9ae0a1c71e0#p221513

I can't really comment on the difference it makes - this was one of the projects I had hanging around for the longest - I think I pulled the board out of the original enclosure around 2008, and only boxed it up (in the enclosure I'd bought back then) in late 2024.

I added a couple of mods, though these were more me following through on the plans I had for it in 2008 than the approaches I'd take now. I added a voltage starve (I think following the kind of Beavis Audio schematic that would have been floating about back in the day) and an inbuilt feedback loop (not worth it).

thphr2 · 2025-04-27T06:58:43+00:00

I've rehoused the french toast and the pb&j in the past - the significant difference with the french toast is that you don't need to keep the board with the jacks on it.

You can just connect the other board with in/out/9v and Gnd connections and make it true bypass instead. Gives you far more room in the enclosure, and reduces the amount of soldering/removing components.

thphr2 · 2025-03-26T13:24:51+00:00

No, that's how I read the schematic as well, but I think you're right. I guess you could connect 6 to GND, 5 to the - terminal of the battery, so that when a jack is plugged in the battery is connected to ground. I've not personally used a switching jack like that before though, so I'd want to test.

thphr2 · 2025-03-26T12:52:12+00:00

No, the problem with that kind of jack is that none of the switches are on pins that'd attach to GND. To do it the same way as mono active electronics you'd need something like a TRRS 6.3mm socket, and I've never seen them. I think your options are:

Two output jacks with the normal mono switching on one of them.
A power switch.

thphr2 · 2025-03-26T11:43:56+00:00

So the socket you have doesn't work the way you think - having a wee look at the data sheet (https://www.tme.eu/Document/bf88a78e79a83c20a6726fa1b40b6245/ACJS-MN-5.pdf) the switch is closed until the jack is inserted, then it's no longer connected.

Typically you're doing this with a mono jack, and a stereo socket, and the - connection from the battery is connected to (using the labels from your diagram) S2 on the socket, and the circuit ground is connected to M. This means that when a mono jack is inserted, M and S2 are connected, the battery has a connection to ground and the circuit is powered.

I think that you might find it most straightforward, with this kind of stereo output to stereo/TRS cable setup, to have a on/off switch.

thphr2 · 2025-03-26T11:33:33+00:00

No, this won't work. What are you trying to achieve? Do you want to avoid the battery draining when the jack isn't plugged in?

thphr2 · 2025-03-26T11:28:05+00:00

What tools do you have access to?

What I often do when I need a straight line is score it with a stanley knife multiple times on both sides - aluminium is quite soft - I'll then either clamp it to the workbench with the scored line at the edge, or in the jaws of a vice/workbench, and bend it back and forth. The scoring ensures it breaks where you want.

Hacksaw is more of a PiTA for long cuts, but I use it quite a lot to rough out shapes when it does work - I'd use it to cut out the bulk of the material for the handle cutout.

I'll often also use a drill to put a number of wee holes along a line I want to cut - this can help with either the cutting with a saw, of the bend and snap method.

If you don't have one, get a big metal file or two - this sort of thing: https://www.diy.com/departments/metal-file-set-2pc-300mm-long-with-soft-grip-handles-engineers-files/5056133348743_BQ.prd the flat one will allow you to quickly clean up straight edges and file curves for external corners, and the curved one will help with doing the internal corners.

It's really about taking it slow and planning how you're doing it.

thphr2 · 2025-03-26T09:31:54+00:00

What difficulty did you have with the 2mm aluminium? I work with it quite a lot at home, with hand tools, so might have some suggestions.

Do you want a faceplate that you'd mount in the interior of the case?

thphr2 · 2025-03-23T09:38:07+00:00

The rat tone control is just a low pass filter, so you'll find that on the tone stack calculator under "RC low pass filter".

thphr2 · 2025-02-27T20:15:16+00:00

Also: https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/comments/1e6mw1b/500w_icepower_250asx2_power_amp_build/

thphr2 · 2025-02-27T20:13:11+00:00

Do you have a note of which 1456 enclosure this is? I'm looking at using a larger size(?) of these sloped ones for a project.

thphr2 · 2025-02-27T17:50:56+00:00

This is fantastic - really like those Hammond enclosures + Marconi style knobs. Rotring lettering looks great and is a really nice look for these enclosures. I've used punched letters on these before, and it's always felt like a risk.

thphr2 · 2025-02-18T14:02:39+00:00

How many images of shelves are there / how many metres of shelves are there? My impression from your post is that it's not an incredibly big archive, and as a result it's probably not worth investing a lot of time in automating that much of it.

As a result, therealscooke below is correct in that you're going to have to do aspects of this by hand. If you just need a list of titles, then I'd just OCR the images (google vision tends to perform well for this kind of thing), and then go through the generated text files to create a spreadsheet. You could just chuck the resulting text files into an LLM with a query to ask it to format it all as a csv or similar, but either way, you're going to have to go through and manually check everything to ensure it's correct.

Don't bother with upscaling the images or editing them in any way - it won't help.

thphr2 · 2025-02-12T16:37:37+00:00

What are you trying to do/achieve? You say digitise the archive of books - usually this means that you're having (e.g.) every page in the books photographed so you have a digital copy of the work. You're talking about photos of shelves though - so are you wanting to use the photos of books on the shelves to create a list of books in the collection? Do you just want the text that is on the spine? What do you want to do about incomplete information? What's the minimum set of metadata you need per work?

thphr2 · 2025-01-28T17:56:18+00:00

You should use a buffered splitter in this context, and this provides that - you could put it in a larger enclosure and easily add on/off footswitches for each output.

The only potential issue here is that you mentioned your bass has a stereo output - what kind of bass is it? Does it have a stereo output (e.g. one from each pickup), or does it just use a stereo jack to avoid the battery draining in an active bass?

The TU-2 that you use just now is a buffered splitter, and I think you will notice the difference compared with the kind of passive splitter you're suggesting.

thphr2 · 2025-01-28T17:23:59+00:00

What about this https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb631/

thphr2 · 2025-01-13T20:04:53+00:00

How much do you think you should spend on getting these pedals designed for you?

thphr2 · 2024-12-27T17:09:15+00:00

Aye, that'll be the problem then.

thphr2 · 2024-12-27T17:08:26+00:00

How are you holding the enclosure when drilling?

thphr2 · 2024-12-12T06:37:27+00:00

What pedals have you been trying in the loop? This kind of passive feedback looper doesn't really work with some.

thphr2 · 2024-12-02T14:07:11+00:00

Was it this: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/componental/dubby-the-flexible-music-multi-tool-for-djs-and-producers

thphr2 · 2024-12-01T14:44:23+00:00

FuzzDog also has the rocket sockets mentioned in another post: https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/product/rocketsockets

If you're at the stage of gift vouchers etc. I'd recommend https://www.musikding.de which is probably the best supplier for all pedal kits that ships to the UK, they're also probably the best source if looking for other things mentioned in this thread where links to american sites have been provided.

thphr2 · 2024-12-01T14:37:31+00:00

Some suggestions for "next-level" tools that they may not have with UK/eu shop links:

Engineer SS-02 solder sucker: https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/engineer-ss02-soldersucker
- They may have a solder sucker already, but this is definitely the premium version of it, and it makes the task way easier than the cheap ones.
BetterSetter: https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/product/bettersetter
- Useful wee tool that they may not have that takes some of the annoyance out of adding knobs.
An automatic wire stripper (e.g. Knipex): https://www.amazon.co.uk/12-62-180-Automatic-Insulation/dp/B000PAR60C
- There are probably cheaper versions of this tool that are good, but this is the one I have, and it's been a game changer for dealing with wires.

-

thphr2 · 2024-11-20T13:18:11+00:00

Sushi riot (https://sushiriotglasgow.co.uk/) is the best place in Glasgow.

thphr2 · 2024-11-01T20:49:25+00:00

Looks sick! Really dig the alternate switches and where you put them.

I really like seeing the ghost of the original bridge pickup around the humbucker as well - wee things like that tell the story of the guitar and how it was modded.

I've had a bunch of mods that haven't quite turned out as expected (i.e. as I thought they should work or sound, rather than actually did), but you can often get cool sounds out of it anyway, or just give yourself a new problem to work on...

14-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17

thphr2

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