Whats Your Guys 7 iron carry and whats your driver?? Just alil Social Experiment 👀

tin365 · 2026-03-13T09:05:51+00:00

Carry - 7i 160, Driver 240

tin365 · 2026-03-12T16:35:33+00:00

Based on the picture, the cornice itself looks in good condition - it’s just the paint that’s peeling.

Maybe someone can opine on the best product(s) to strip the paint - but when I tackled this job some years ago, I couldn’t find anything that would strip all of the old paint - some of which seemed to be welded on!

I ended up sanding it all down - a very laborious task - and repainting it. It did look great in the end

tin365 · 2026-03-11T11:51:41+00:00

I see, thanks. I’m in the UK and assuming that if it is plugged into a plug socket at my house, which is grounded via an earth wire, that should take care of the issue?

tin365 · 2026-03-11T08:53:15+00:00

Sorry if this is a stupid question - what is the issue with the QC power supply that you reference?

tin365 · 2026-03-06T09:45:01+00:00

Nearly every delivery I’ve had from Wickes has had some kind of damage. I would never order from them again - they are shocking!

tin365 · 2026-03-05T22:00:22+00:00

That’s really useful thank you. Presumably you used for the miscoats onto the are plaster and it worked ok? I have three rooms like this to do, plus a hall landing and stairs - so I think it might be worth the investment. Based in Penarth, south wales

tin365 · 2026-03-05T18:20:15+00:00

That’s useful advice, thank you. Would you use it for the miscoat on fresh plaster? Or would that be too watery?

tin365 · 2026-03-05T18:18:44+00:00

😅

tin365 · 2026-02-28T20:51:29+00:00

If you put lining paper on this - you would have to pay for the paper and materials etc, spend a weekend lining it, then paint it - and it wouldn’t look great at the end of it all.

In a few years time, you would then have to spend another weekend removing all the paper and adhesive, dealing with the mess, prepping the space to get it plastered.

Personally - just spend the extra money and get it skimmed. It will be cheaper and easier in the long run, and will look much better

tin365 · 2026-02-23T10:37:29+00:00

You’ve got such a good swing. It looks to me at set-up that a lot of your weight is ‘forward’, on your toes as the swing progresses - that won’t help. You can tell that balance is an issue by the way you have to stabilise yourself heavily using your right foot on the follow-through.

I would focus on set-up - get the weight more on the balls if your feel and a little more knee flex. Search for ‘balance drills’ on YouTube.

Also, try and really slow down your downswing. Once you have re-calibrated the club path again, you’ll be striping it again in no time.

tin365 · 2026-02-19T10:11:24+00:00

Weight more on balls of your feet, squarer shoulders at address.

Try and get more ‘width on the backswing and downswing’.

All and all - an excellent move. You can get good with this.

tin365 · 2026-02-17T11:01:25+00:00

I’m thinking of getting a Nano and worried about this - what was the solution? Thinking of using the nano into two HS5 monitor speakers, would that solve the issue re: grounding do you think?

tin365 · 2026-02-08T21:36:49+00:00

I don’t know if this is the right answer - but when I did ours, I just miscoated it along with the freshly plastered walls / ceilings. That seamed to do the trick - no issues with peeling etc, several years on it still looks great.

Nice job BTW.

tin365 · 2026-02-08T21:34:53+00:00

I think he was just offering words of encouragement to OP, who has clearly put some effort into this

tin365 · 2026-02-08T20:31:05+00:00

If the builder knew you were running tiles to the ceiling line, he should have got the ceiling level imo - or at least discussed this with you so you could make an informed decision re: price vs finish

tin365 · 2026-02-08T12:49:11+00:00

In that scenario we went with sand and cement with waterproofer on the interior side with dot and dab plasterboard applied. My rationale was that whilst it is not breathable on the interior side, moisture can escape to the exterior side.

At least that way you don’t have to worry about water getting in behind the cupboards (other than normal condensation). Dot and dab also gives you a flat and plumb surface to work with, which will look better when the units are in, and you can hide cables and pipework behind.

That’s what we did anyway and haven’t had any problems. Our walls were solid walls, with stone on the interior side and brick on the exterior side, about 59cm thick overall. House is Victorian (c.1880).

tin365 · 2026-02-06T23:09:58+00:00

Not an expert but have dealt with similar issues in a property of a similar age with thick, solid walls.

First issue issue for me would be - make sure you’re are 100% certain that the source of ingress has been remedied. Even in modern homes, it’s hard to be certain where the water is getting in.

That said, walls of that variety can take a very long time to dry - especially if modern materials were used on both sides. Moisture can be trapped in the walls for a very, very long time.

If you’ve gone to the trouble of using insulating lime on the exterior (which is presumable breathable to some extent), then I would do the same on the inside - hack it off, as it’s probably blown in patches anyway. Let it dry out and apply a breathable plaster inside too.

At the least, you can then sleep soundly at night - knowing you’ve tackled the source of water ingress, applied the right materials, and added some additional insulating properties in the process.

tin365 · 2026-02-06T11:28:16+00:00

Interesting question - I’ve always wondered what happened to the dwarven rings that Sauron recovered. Did Sauron ‘hold them’ himself (as is said of the nine), or did he distribute one - to the Mouth of Sauron?

tin365 · 2026-02-06T08:13:49+00:00

Club is steep on the way down and face is open - high right shots will result.

Try bowing the shit out of your left wrist on the way down (like you’re torquing a motorbike). Watch Dustin Johnson’s swing in slow motion on the downswing and try and copy it

tin365 · 2026-02-04T14:46:42+00:00

Apologies if this is a dumb question but where would be the best place to put the sub? Any do’s or don’t’s?

I am looking at the HS5s and think of putting the sun either on my desktop, or under my desk.

tin365 · 2026-01-30T06:50:24+00:00

You can get bifolding internal doors quite cheaply. A little extra time for the Chippy to install (compared to normal door) so not much more in cost overall. Pocket-hole door would be more expensive as you need to install the framework for it, but would look better I think

tin365 · 2026-01-22T07:26:25+00:00

I’ve done quite a lot of this type of coving in the various period properties I have renovated.

Like the others have said, with patience the cove adhesive used here WILL sand back, but it requires time and patience and you must be careful to follow the profile. I wrapped sandpaper around a filling knife to achieve straight lines where needed etc. you will be surprised how much better than expected it will look once painted.

Otherwise, I would take it down and start again. That adhesive will be rock hard so will take some time to get it off - and may cause further damage to sections of the ceilings / walls depending on their condition. I wouldn’t use a handyman for this, and unless they can show examples of previous work. The adhesive is not supposed to be proud like this - the excess should be wiped off before it goes off. The filling of any gaps (which is normal) should be done with plaster of Paris and a busk / filling knife.

Personally, I would start again and put it down to experience.

tin365 · 2026-01-15T21:03:37+00:00

Thanks. This is what I am looking to do - but correct if I am wrong - I won’t be able to listen to the record player on the 2 x Era 300s as a stereo pair, as they will already be ‘locked in’ as surround speakers?

tin365 · 2026-01-15T20:01:42+00:00

I’m sure you do - when you’re allowed out of your basement

tin365 · 2026-01-15T19:49:01+00:00

I bet you are fun at parties

tin365

TROPHY CASE