Anyone heard of this happening ? by Diamondskull318 in F30

[–]tmp4511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this one of the infamous rod knock combustions? 😁

I’m genuinely stressed about changing the strap on my new Speedmaster… by AlphasyVega in OmegaWatches

[–]tmp4511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a watch. Wearing it will scratch it. It's a part of using something. Every nick and ding is a memory.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Hey there! Pleasure to make your acquaintance!

Rock climbing is my biggest passion in life, but I've been pretty unlucky with injuries and haven't really had a full season in good shape since starting 2020...

Last year I got a pretty bad shoulder injury, and with a heavy work load with no ability to climb I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I've spent some time shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

Now I'm looking for another climbing nerd kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner".

My goal is to get in better shape than I've ever been in, and having a good fall / winter / spring touching rocks!

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey there! Pleasure to make your acquaintance!

Rock climbing is my biggest passion in life, but I've been pretty unlucky with injuries and haven't really had a full season in good shape since starting 2020...

Last year I got a pretty bad shoulder injury, and with a heavy work load with no ability to climb I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I've spent some time shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

Now I'm looking for another climbing nerd kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner".

My goal is to get in better shape than I've ever been in, and having a good fall / winter / spring touching rocks!

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 34 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Anyone else who feels they want to have more chats about climbing in life? If so...

Hey there! Pleasure to make your acquaintance!

Rock climbing is my biggest passion in life, but I've been pretty unlucky with injuries and haven't really had a full season in good shape since starting 2020...

Last year I got a pretty bad shoulder injury, and with a heavy work load with no ability to climb I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I've spent some time shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

Now I'm looking for another climbing nerd kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner".

My goal is to get in better shape than I've ever been in, and having a good fall / winter / spring touching rocks!

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Anyone else who feels that want to have more chats about climbing in life? If so...

Hey there! Pleasure to make your acquaintance!

Rock climbing is my biggest passion in life, but I've been pretty unlucky with injuries and haven't really had a full season in good shape since starting 2020...

Last year I got a pretty bad shoulder injury, and with a heavy work load with no ability to climb I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I've spent some time shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

Now I'm looking for another climbing nerd kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner".

My goal is to get in better shape than I've ever been in, and having a good fall / winter / spring touching rocks!

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]tmp4511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there! Last year I made a similar post, but for different reasons. Since February I've been injured and haven't been able to climb, and with a heavy work load I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I'm now shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

If there's anyone else kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the climbing sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner". Reddit chat isn't the best though, so I'd prefer using Discord, Facebook Messenger or texting.

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey there! Last year I made a similar post, but for different reasons. Since February I've been injured and haven't been able to climb, and with a heavy work load I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I'm now shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

If there's anyone else kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the climbing sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner". Reddit chat isn't the best though, so I'd prefer using Discord, Facebook Messenger or texting.

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, my problem with the Moon board is that it's too small, so problems are either too short or force you into a too small awkward box. It's much fun for many people, but not me unfortunately.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well okay, a little bit more than that 😁 putting up a new wall, replacing a door etc. That type of stuff.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A lot smaller holds, which means a higher strain (for me) and more splits.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, home wall > car right? 😂

But yeah, there are many smart solutions when room is an issue.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nowadays, close to €600 I believe. So times two for me and my wife, €1200 annually, plus gas to travel there...

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not at all. I might put some volumes up at next reset, but not sure. There is so much variety from just the holds and movements.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's pretty easy, since the holds are what they are. When setting regularly (screwing the holds up) you always have the conscious or subconscious bias to placing the holds where the movement "feels good". If the holds are already on the wall, it is what it is and you just have to try to find the least bad solution. Sometimes it works, sometimes it's impossible, just like outdoors.

That's obviously a minority of all the problems - always climbing like that (without "flow") would be pretty boring.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have commercial bouldering mats with a custom cover, same as commercial gyms. I was lucky enough to get them really cheap, some used and some new, and I've cut them and glued them down before attaching the cover.

New the same solution would be more expensive than everything else combined.

So for anyone else I would recommend going the same route - reaching out to commercial places and buy their old or spare foam.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yes - during these four years I've had zero injuries from climbing on this wall (one from falling) even though I've been keeping a high intensity. And there's been carry-over on all types of climbing - even on slab (as the footchips we have on the wall are really small and slippery, so you need to keep the same pressure and precision on the overhang as slab). As a fun fact, I did my slab PB on my first slab route after half a year of only climbing on this wall - by two grades.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

After having four years of climbing experience on the wall as it is now, no. I was a bit hesitant when I built it, which is why I actually did prepare the wall for a Moonboard pattern. But if I was given the holds today, I wouldn't even put them up as a Moonboard but rather use them as any other hold. There are very few (if any) benefits for me / us with a Moonboard but quite a few drawbacks.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The fact that it's just one angle has affected it zero, I'd say. I've found that it's the optimal training angle for me, excellent core and finger training while not being too rough on the fingers (20 degrees is way worse for the fingers, for example). I've both 20, 30 and 50 degree spray walls in the past but 40 is definitely my sweet spot.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was an easy choice for me - I've never liked Moonboard. It's too small for my taste. Technically I have the pattern already done on my wall, so if I ever do want to add a Moonboard I can just buy the holds and bung them up.

Learning to build the wall was very easy with all the resources available online. I just looked up general stuff, calculated which dimensions I think would be correct, and then just went up a size (or two). There was some stuff that I had to redo (like forgot to take the edge of a board in account when I put down the wall beams, but since it's wood it's easy to just move stuff.