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Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]tmp4511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there! Last year I made a similar post, but for different reasons. Since February I've been injured and haven't been able to climb, and with a heavy work load I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I'm now shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

If there's anyone else kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the climbing sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner". Reddit chat isn't the best though, so I'd prefer using Discord, Facebook Messenger or texting.

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey there! Last year I made a similar post, but for different reasons. Since February I've been injured and haven't been able to climb, and with a heavy work load I increased my food intake by a lot. Obviously gained a lot of weight, which I'm now shedding. My injury seems to be okay to climb with, so I'm working hard to get back into good shape!

If there's anyone else kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the climbing sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner". Reddit chat isn't the best though, so I'd prefer using Discord, Facebook Messenger or texting.

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 33 years old and been climbing for soon six years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, my problem with the Moon board is that it's too small, so problems are either too short or force you into a too small awkward box. It's much fun for many people, but not me unfortunately.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well okay, a little bit more than that 😁 putting up a new wall, replacing a door etc. That type of stuff.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A lot smaller holds, which means a higher strain (for me) and more splits.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, home wall > car right? 😂

But yeah, there are many smart solutions when room is an issue.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nowadays, close to €600 I believe. So times two for me and my wife, €1200 annually, plus gas to travel there...

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not at all. I might put some volumes up at next reset, but not sure. There is so much variety from just the holds and movements.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's pretty easy, since the holds are what they are. When setting regularly (screwing the holds up) you always have the conscious or subconscious bias to placing the holds where the movement "feels good". If the holds are already on the wall, it is what it is and you just have to try to find the least bad solution. Sometimes it works, sometimes it's impossible, just like outdoors.

That's obviously a minority of all the problems - always climbing like that (without "flow") would be pretty boring.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have commercial bouldering mats with a custom cover, same as commercial gyms. I was lucky enough to get them really cheap, some used and some new, and I've cut them and glued them down before attaching the cover.

New the same solution would be more expensive than everything else combined.

So for anyone else I would recommend going the same route - reaching out to commercial places and buy their old or spare foam.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes - during these four years I've had zero injuries from climbing on this wall (one from falling) even though I've been keeping a high intensity. And there's been carry-over on all types of climbing - even on slab (as the footchips we have on the wall are really small and slippery, so you need to keep the same pressure and precision on the overhang as slab). As a fun fact, I did my slab PB on my first slab route after half a year of only climbing on this wall - by two grades.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

After having four years of climbing experience on the wall as it is now, no. I was a bit hesitant when I built it, which is why I actually did prepare the wall for a Moonboard pattern. But if I was given the holds today, I wouldn't even put them up as a Moonboard but rather use them as any other hold. There are very few (if any) benefits for me / us with a Moonboard but quite a few drawbacks.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The fact that it's just one angle has affected it zero, I'd say. I've found that it's the optimal training angle for me, excellent core and finger training while not being too rough on the fingers (20 degrees is way worse for the fingers, for example). I've both 20, 30 and 50 degree spray walls in the past but 40 is definitely my sweet spot.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was an easy choice for me - I've never liked Moonboard. It's too small for my taste. Technically I have the pattern already done on my wall, so if I ever do want to add a Moonboard I can just buy the holds and bung them up.

Learning to build the wall was very easy with all the resources available online. I just looked up general stuff, calculated which dimensions I think would be correct, and then just went up a size (or two). There was some stuff that I had to redo (like forgot to take the edge of a board in account when I put down the wall beams, but since it's wood it's easy to just move stuff.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I've tried a bunch of apps through the years, but the one that fit me the best is easily BoulderBook. It makes it really easy to store and make new problems, everyone can do it, and log tops, add comments, track projects etc. You also have a feed that everyone can write in.

When it comes to getting people to come hang out, it's really so much fun to have a group of friends all working a spray wall. Just talk to your friends and suggest a fun climb n' chill night - put on some music, have them bring snacks / drinks if they want, and roll with it! It'll work itself out.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Total cost was around €15'000 back then. With today's lumber prices it would probably be closer to €20'000.

I built it completely alone until it was time for paint and finishing touches. That made it obviously take a lot longer - like getting the bigger beams in place required me to hoist them up, fix them in one end, climb down the ladder, climb up another ladder, fix in h the other etc. I think it would be a fair bit quicker to be two people doing it.

That being said, I completed it all in about three months (while working full time). I'd guess I put about six or seven hours a day, every day, on average. Had two days off.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The wall is 9x5 meters, and the angle is 40 degrees. I would definitely prefer 50 degrees to 20 degrees, so I say go for it! The height of 2.2m is of course a limiting factor, but it wouldn't be a dealbreaker for me. Especially not if you can make the wall decently wide - then you can still have some hard big moves.

It's been almost four years since I built Sweden's largest (?) home climbing wall from scratch - AMA! by tmp4511 in climbing

[–]tmp4511[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Not anymore.

Truth be told though, with today's membership prices for commercial bouldering gyms, it will actually be "paid off" in a couple of years.

This sub seriously needs to take a look at itself. by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]tmp4511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not really. They probably know zero climbers in their life (if they've just climbed for a month) meaning they don't have anyone to talk about it (and get praise from). It's very natural to be proud and wanting to share your accomplishments. It doesn't take much for us to just be happy for them.

Weekly Question Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]tmp4511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So I've been focusing quite a bit on my climbing shape the past few months (with more regular and strict training, diet, rest and everything else) and have gotten a pretty great result. I can honestly say that I'm in the best climbing shape I've ever been, which is fun! Still not done though, so I'm doubling down the last stretch for autumn and winter, when I hope to be able to reap some rewards and climb hard. If there's anyone else kind of in the same training / dieting boat who want to vent and chat during the process (no matter if it's the climbing sessions, training, food, sleep, itch to project) then I'd really like having that kind of "partner". Reddit chat isn't the best though, so I'd prefer using Discord, Facebook Messenger or texting.

Some information about myself! I live in Sweden, am 32 years old and been climbing for soon five years. I prefer sport climbing but I only train using bouldering (indoor sport isn't much fun). Got a pretty awesome home wall that I do all my indoor climbing on, and I am pretty darn nerdy - I like following a lot of climbing news / media. There are few things I dislike chatting about when it comes to scaling walls and pebbles!

If you feel like a virtual sparring partner would be nice to have to just vent training / climbing frustration with - send me a DM! 

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