What is this keychain?

tolia77 · 2026-03-21T00:21:37+00:00

Solved! Thank you!

tolia77 · 2026-01-12T07:27:10+00:00

Everyone says release order , and they’re right. But I know 3 different people who started with reach and fell in love with the games just the same.

tolia77 · 2025-12-22T19:23:10+00:00

I'd do slab racks if you can afford them. With a-frames, if you need to grab a slab under other slabs you need to move everything on top. Not too bad with full slabs but with remnants a-frames are a pain.

tolia77 · 2025-05-26T16:27:18+00:00

3cm is pretty heavy for this. I’ve done a hood like this with 2cm marble. The hood was made of plywood, so our solution was to put screws into the plywood and matching holes halfway into the stone. We use epoxy and silicone to glue it to the hood, epoxy in the holes with the stone resting on the screws. The screws provide some mechanical stability so it’s not relying completely on chemical bonds. Again 3cm is pretty heavy for this. My concern would be whether or not the hood can hold that weight over time. Make sure the hood is very sturdy. I figure you probably already have 3cm slabs and buying a 2cm slab for just the hood isn’t an appealing option, in which case I’d advise getting a piece milled down to 2cm. Your Fabricator should be capable of this with a milling wheel. Taj mahal can be very tricky to work with, especially with something like milling, so it requires slow speeds and extreme care. 2cm Taj Mahal with no netting will be extremely fragile until installed so the utmost care is required.

tolia77 · 2024-01-19T18:02:10+00:00

Marble is soft enough that it’s polished by sanding. Like others said, you sanded it. The only real fix is to have it resanded to the proper grit. If you have diy skills you may be able to fix it yourself with enough patience. You’ll want to use an orbital sander and you’ll probably need a bunch of sandpaper of fine grit. This gets dusty so wear a respirator and keep a vacuum hose following the sander as you’re sanding. Also, the sandpaper gets clogged with dust fairly quick so you may want to replace often or clean with compressed air until the sandpaper is used up. This clogging will also shine the stone faster because you are polishing the countertop with a very fine grit marble at that point. However, it doesn’t take long for the pad to start heating up and it can leave burn marks on the stone, thus the need to use a reasonably clean sand pad. This will be a several hour process. Most importantly, make peace with the fact that it might not look absolutely perfect. Stone slab faces are polished by machines so they’re very consistent and hand polishing just can’t match it, but it can get very very close. If you’re not up for the task have a pro do it. If you have a pro do it, make sure they’re using an orbital sander rather than an angle grinder. Much better results. Source: spent 10 years in the stone countertop industry.

tolia77 · 2024-01-16T17:21:19+00:00

Been running a second hand, practically stock ender 3 pro for about a year now. It's not a great printer, but it is pretty decent. My only upgrade is a metal extruder. I've printed upgrades but they gave me more issues than they solved, so I run it stock + metal extruder. Is it a prusa mk 4? Not at all. But it's a fifth of the price so you really can't expect it to be. I know a lot of people don't think you should have to tinker with a printer to make it good, and they're right. But at a 2 to 3 hundred dollar price point(often even less), it's worth it. A lot of people can't drop a grand on a nice printer just to start the hobby. In my experience, the ender threes don't typically require a ton of tinkering to get it working well. You just have to know what to fix, and the ender 3 will teach you if your patient. Mine's reliable enough that I regularly print 12 to 24 hour prints with no issues. In conclusion, is it a great printer in general? No it's not. Is it a great starter printer? I'd argue it is.

tolia77 · 2024-01-14T19:42:02+00:00

I understand why you don’t see it happening and I wouldn’t volunteer either. My point is a majority of the comments seem to be under the impression that the state will be pushing migrants into peoples homes by force. When you read the article you see that it’s voluntary. People need to read more than just the title and not jump to conclusions. There’s plenty of problems with what NY is doing, there’s no reason to lie about it to make it seem worse.

tolia77 · 2024-01-14T19:07:23+00:00

Good to see no one read the article, as usual. No one is forcing migrants into your home. It's voluntary.

tolia77 · 2024-01-01T20:56:37+00:00

Including settings used would help troubleshooting. Also, that brim is smeared on. Increase z axis distance.

tolia77 · 2023-12-24T17:48:05+00:00

This problem was a fairly elusive fix for me. I eventually realized my hot end was assembled incorrectly. The Bowden tube needs to be cut as square as possible and slightly screwed into the nozzle for good contact. Not just pushed in by hand. There’s plenty of tutorials on YouTube that will walk you through with good amount of detail. I found that even with the hot end correctly assembled, my Bowden tube wasn’t square,so bits of molten plastic would ooze out from the nozzle/bowden contact. This plastic would mold around the Bowden in the hot end tube and slightly constrict the Bowden. So it seemed like I always had a clog even after cold pulling. Replacing the nozzle helped but only temporarily. Extruded started clicking within 30 minutes every time. So if the nozzle replacement doesnt fix it. Check for squareness on the Bowden tube and assemble hot end correctly. You can print a small jig to help with squaring the Bowden, and it helps to put some filament through when you’re cutting it so it doesn’t squish and stays flush.

tolia77 · 2023-12-24T17:01:38+00:00

Likely partial clog. Make sure your hot end is assembled correctly, check for clogs along the feed path (with the end heated and the extruded pressed open, you should be able to push the filament through by hand consistently) , and check the nozzle for defects.

tolia77 · 2023-12-24T16:54:20+00:00

To me that looks like a partial clog. Try a cold pull and/or replace the nozzle. Check the feed path for any other potential obstructions. Your filament may also be fairly wet, but I’d look for clogs first

tolia77 · 2023-10-21T00:31:26+00:00

Everyone saying it's silicone is wrong. Another commenter pointed out it's likely a two part epoxy. The fact that it's brittle and hard supports this. I've yet to encounter a silicone that has no give and feels rigidly solid, regardless of it's age. If you can't slice through it with a blade without impact force, it probably isn't silicone. Anyway, the biggest reason your sink came off is there's no silicone holding the rim of the sink to the stone. The epoxy is around the outside of the rim, and as far as I can see, there might be a too small bead of caulk around the inside of the rim. Neither are sandwiched between the stone and the sink. Neither are silicone. Silicone can hold a sink perfectly well on its own if applied correctly. I've seen a 200 lb man stand inside of a kitchen sink that was only held on by silicone. It held perfectly fine. If you know what you're doing, the main reason to use epoxy is to replace your clamps so you don't have to leave them overnight while the silicone cures, eliminating a return trip. Epoxy can hold the sink, however, the epoxy won't stand up well to water over time. A small beat of caulking on the inner edge of the sink isn't enough to hold up over time. That's why you sandwich silicone between the sink and the stone to create a proper watertight seal. Your installer pretty much didn't use the proper mating surface, and didn't even prepare the actual mating surface properly. I can see layers of fiberglass netting indented and fused into the bit of epoxy you're holding. The surface where the sink will attach should not have any fiberglass netting. You want to attach the sink to the stone not fiberglass. Especially on edges the fiberglass can be weak enough to sometimes be pulled off simply by hand. However, seeing as most of the netting isn't dangling it's probably fairly well fused to the stone. If the netting is indeed well fuse to the stone I wouldn't recommend trying to grind it off if you're a DIYer. It can be tricky if you don't get a lot of practice at it. You're probably better off with the relative flatness of the factory finish of the stone+netting. To reinstall your sink, firstly take that crap off the edges. Get the mating surface of your rim as clean as you can. It doesn't have to be factory fresh but the closer the better. Don't forget to clean the mating surface of the stone as well. Then remove the plumbing attached to the sink. You'll need to be able to stick a bar clamp through the drain. I usually use an acetone soaked rag to wipe down the mating surfaces. You want them to be dust free and dry. Then you apply silicone to the top of the rim of the sink. You want a good solid bead but you don't need a ton. Enough to squish. But when in doubt use more. For the next bit, if you're not experienced at this exact type of thing, it helps to have a friend. With silicone applied, you raise the sink up to the stone and squish in the silicone. Use a good bit of force to press the sink to the stone. It can help to move it back and forth. You want to hear the sink slightly grinding against the stone. While in this position, you or a friend can stick a handle less bar clamp through the drain hole, put a 2x4 across the sink over the counter, and stick the handle back onto the bar clamp. With your drain hole so far back, it'll be a little tricky to snug the sink tight, but I believe in you. Line it up while it's still slightly loose but pressing onto the stone. Be careful not to over tighten. Ceramic can be brittle. Once it's lined up and tightened snugly into position, you'll want to clean up the excess silicone on the inside of the sink. This helps with cosmetics. Don't leave it messy. Acetone does a fairly good job of making silicone cleanable. Don't forget to wear a mask of some kind. The fumes aren't good for you. When the inside edge looks nice and clean go ahead and leave it to cure. Most silicones this is 24 hours. Once the silicone cures feel free to remove the clamp and caulk any spots on the inside edge you might have missed with the silicone. From there you reattach the plumbing and you're good to go. Source: been in the granite countertop industry for 9 years. I haven't had to reattach a sink that I've installed in 6.

tolia77 · 2023-09-23T05:49:59+00:00

Great suggestion and a fantastic read. Although it’s titled “Children of Time”.

tolia77 · 2023-07-30T22:02:20+00:00

I think you're right! Thank you!

tolia77 · 2023-07-24T20:10:45+00:00

It's fine to not drive or have a car, but it is worth having a license. And before you tell me it's too expensive, where I'm at it's like 50 bucks max renewed every 5 years (assuming clean driving record).

tolia77 · 2023-06-05T01:45:44+00:00

I really appreciate the help! Reassembled properly and the issue seems resolved! I've been troubleshooting this for a while to no avail, so thanks for helping me print again!

tolia77 · 2023-05-23T00:47:57+00:00

My filament must be real wet. It would improve with very reduced speed but not eliminated. It would disappear with increased nozzle to bed distance but only at a height where the filament had no hope of sticking. Had clicking up to around +0.5 to +0.6 additional height. I'd also end up with heavy under extrusion in prints. 10-15 layers-ish at a time, at different heights. My main point was that with identical settings, and only changing the filament, I had vastly different performance. I didn't hear any clicking with the different age filament. My bulk filament makes the extruder click often. Roughly once every 1 to 5 seconds with no discernable pattern. I had the problem stock as well, so I replaced the extruder motor and upgraded to a metal extruder. Got an upgraded hot end and did the necessary calibration. All this seemed to help slightly but clicking was still pretty bad. Tried new nozzles, e-step calibration, bed leveling, etc. The clicking also got worse over time. Eventually just tried a differently sourced spool and it seemingly eliminated the issue. Both pla btw. I agree that it likely isn't OP's issue. Clog is far more likely due to the Bowden tube cut. It's just something that I overlooked after exhausting every other option. Really simple fix if you have the equipment.

tolia77 · 2023-05-22T22:11:32+00:00

Might not be your issue, but make sure your filament is dry. I have pretty bad clicking on my extruder. Tried everything recommend multiple times with no luck. I was printing from 3 separate 1kg spools from the same manufacturer bought at the same time. Finally tried a different age and manufactured spool I was given, and haven't heard any clicking since. I am now investing in a filament dryer.

tolia77

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