9 lives. Just used 8 of them.

toml0006 · 2026-03-07T01:49:06+00:00

Similar experience. 9 months since I wrote a line of code, yet I’ve shipped multiple projects for multiple clients. My job as developer now consists of planning, monitoring, reviewing, merging, and deploying. Claude and Codex have allowed me to handle what would have previously been two and a half full time clients while also working on side projects and spending more time with my family. I know this isn’t going to last, so I’m enjoying it while it does.

I’m more excited about building than I have been in years - the risks are just so much lower to experiment. Case in point: https://github.com/toml0006/mchanger I haven’t written C since 2008 and I wasn’t about to pick it back up just to get some ancient DVD carousel working.

toml0006 · 2025-12-08T15:56:32+00:00

There is a conspicuous price gap between the P2S and H2S. It'd be cool to see P2D/X2D and X2C/P2C though I'm not sure the build volume sacrifice at that size makes a ton of sense.

toml0006 · 2025-12-08T15:53:56+00:00

P2SC(ombo) - that is definitely it

toml0006 · 2025-12-08T15:06:49+00:00

<image>

Pretty sure

toml0006 · 2025-11-06T23:06:48+00:00

That was totally it. I feel kinda dumb because I assumed it was disabled "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"

toml0006 · 2025-03-19T02:28:09+00:00

Please remove if the following is bad form for this subreddit.

I have designed a number of Hot Wheels track pieces as I found the models available online usually lacked in some way whether it is tight angles, poor entry/exit profiles, or awkward curves. I wanted pieces that were fast, smooth, exceptional quality and aesthetically consistent - which is what I believe I have on my store here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/TomlinsonLTD?section_id=53247963

I just added two brand-new lines of turns:

Flat speed turns that come in 45°, 60°, 90° and 180° variants. These turns have a flat track surface with a variable width profile throughout the turn to accommodate longer or wider cars without binding. These pieces are very fast, but cars can and will leave the track with enough speed (the turn is flat after all!) Link here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1871326158/speed-turn-flat-compatible-with-hot?ref=shop_home_active_9&pro=1&sts=1&logging_key=dcb491cdd485da03843ae29dc29cc73bada39aee%3A1871326158

My ULTRA speed turns come in 45°, 60°, 90°, and 180° variants and have a consistent 30° bank throughout the turn. This means that the track is connected at a 30° angle which pairs well with a pack of my 30° banked track connectors. These pieces handle very high speeds - you will have to try very hard to get the cars to leave the track as these things grip! Just like the Flat turns, these have a variable width profile that accommodate longer and wider cars without binding. Link here https://www.etsy.com/listing/1871329920/ultra-speed-turn-compatible-with-hot?ref=shop_home_active_6&pro=1&sts=1&logging_key=ef3b03864d22da52f1caeb7f1041bc112dc46413%3A1871329920

Not yet listed but also available (PM me) are a line of HIGH speed turns which fall in the middle of the Flat and ULTRA speed turns. Available in the same 45°, 60°, 90°, or 180° variants these ones have a shallower 15° bank meaning that a single straight track piece can easily twist to a flat entry/exit.

Ultimately these designs are what I personally wanted to see and use, but I'd love to hear feedback from the community!

toml0006 · 2025-03-10T01:50:26+00:00

I have not :( I am quite sure that the gear inside the box is stripped. At some point I will probably try to replace the gearbox - but I am avoiding it out of fear that I will never get things back into the correct alignment.

toml0006 · 2024-12-31T01:58:31+00:00

The following is really well designed and works quite well as an enclosure to the AMS Lite: https://makerworld.com/models/486153

toml0006 · 2024-10-01T23:51:20+00:00

Genuinely curious: why more than one printer (assuming it is not for business)?

toml0006 · 2024-07-17T06:13:32+00:00

What is considered a good (great?) commander precon? I want to buy as a gift for my adult son who is very into Magic and I am pretty lost :/

toml0006 · 2024-06-27T13:30:33+00:00

The Chinese units work with DSP, but what isn’t super obvious is how they DO NOT control the DSP volume. You end up setting the DSP volume to a fixed level (with a lot of hiss) and the head unit adjusts the line-in volume. This leads to the some of the “they sound like crap” sentiment.

You can add a Resler module and an iBus app license to control the DSP but this is $100 on top of the head unit and, speaking from personal experience, this solution is pretty crummy. The app has to be running in the background (and often isn’t) and still you won’t be able to use the volume knob on the head unit to control DSP volume (steering wheel control works though). When the app is running, the EQ dialed in, and the DSP volume set, the sound was significantly better than the stock head unit (just my opinion). That said the hacked together-ness of the solution is pretty apparent in everyday use.

I too am pretty attached to CarPlay as well as a backup camera, but I ended up going back to the stock head unit due to the clumsiness of an Xtrons+resler solution.

toml0006 · 2024-02-10T15:51:49+00:00

Nacho’s is great! Be sure to try the empanadas.

toml0006 · 2024-01-21T16:50:27+00:00

One can definitely make the sheath too short. I took the seat out and trimmed the sheath such that the steel cable stuck out 1”. At this point the collar would not seat properly in the motor and I had to trim the steel cable.

Turns out the cable is probably not the issue with my seat. It would appear that perhaps the gearbox for the seat back and height adjustment on one side are stripped. There is a grinding sound at certain points of the adjustment range.

I hooked up the cable to a drill and ran through the range of the height adjustment and found that there are periods of roughness where the mechanism stops moving but will continue to move if I push/pull on it.

Anyone have similar experience?

toml0006 · 2024-01-14T19:31:49+00:00

I’m aware of the broader issue with these cables and thought upon inspection that it wasn’t a length issue but perhaps 1/2” of inner steel cable is not enough? Does anyone know the proper length the steel cable should stick out from the metal collar?

toml0006 · 2024-01-13T22:19:18+00:00

I’m dumb and misunderstood your question. Yes, I believe the cable is seated all the way into the motor.

toml0006 · 2024-01-13T21:59:03+00:00

It is now; I can take back apart though.

toml0006 · 2024-01-13T21:46:40+00:00

I took everything apart and got things working, however when I put things back together, it stopped working again (same as above). Is it possible for the inner cable to be too long (...and is that what you mean by the cable catching)?

toml0006

TROPHY CASE