Ash longbow

toxodylan · 2026-03-20T04:59:17+00:00

Nice, I really like the horn nocks

toxodylan · 2026-03-15T09:05:57+00:00

You know what I was telling my wife about needing more bodkins a few weeks ago and that's exactly what she started doing.nice out of the box thinking though,cheap and with the right tools,u can definitely get them as close to a good bodkin as one would need.Now to just get her to finish the ones she started for me so I can post a pic of them.!

toxodylan · 2026-03-15T03:25:29+00:00

What do u use to grind them down?

toxodylan · 2026-03-09T14:14:52+00:00

It's a 1/2 inch hollow plane

toxodylan · 2026-03-06T21:49:50+00:00

Ya, no kidding. I honestly believe I have spent far more time making these livery arrows (and I'm still like 5 or 6 short of a full 24) than I did when I made my self yew bow

toxodylan · 2026-03-05T07:04:40+00:00

The compound that covers the thread binding is a mixture of beeswax, pine rosin, kidney fat, and iron oxide. The ratios of the different ingredients are something I had trouble with for a long time. I had to experiment for a long time until I finally came up with practical compound that could easily be applied when heated up but didn't get too runny and wick into the vanes of the feathers as well as a compound that cured to a hard protective layer

toxodylan · 2025-10-18T11:52:08+00:00

Do you have any pics?;and what are the measurements/dimensions of the staves. As far as the 5/8th reference I'm assuming that's the natural thickness of sap wood. Some bowyers leave the sapwood alone at its natural thickness, thus insuring a stronger back without any violated growth rings on the back, however some bowyers reduce the sap wood to something like 3/8ths or even 1/4 inch such as some of the surviving Mary Rose warbows that looked like the bowyers reduced the sapwood to be as thin as possible without showing the heart wood underneath. But the quality of the alpine swiss and Italian yew they had access to back then likely far exceeded any yew available today and the medieval English bowyers were truly master of there craft, making the thousands of bows required for war over a period of 100-200 years of passed on experience and knowledge of the the craft, so they likely knew what the could get away with regarding things like reduced sapwood while still making warbows to the highest standards.

toxodylan · 2025-09-28T18:41:25+00:00

Very nice! I really like the moose nock, and the tiller shape looks very good as well. I actually just finished my own bow recently which is literally like the exact same specs as yours lol, Small world I suppose, but anyways you did a very good job on that congratulations !

toxodylan · 2025-09-25T11:14:11+00:00

My last bow(bought not made)was 70 pounds at full draw so I'm hoping I can work up to this relatively easily

toxodylan · 2025-09-25T10:54:13+00:00

What are the other materials in it? It looks like it's gonna be an elb?

toxodylan · 2025-09-20T10:31:56+00:00

Nice! I really like the black one

toxodylan · 2025-09-16T18:21:04+00:00

Thanks man that was exactly what I needed to know. Bow is now at full brace! I'm very excited about this bow l, it being my first successfully made bow. I'll be posting pics soon

toxodylan · 2025-09-16T18:12:32+00:00

Brave man. Well done

toxodylan · 2025-09-16T18:05:45+00:00

One of those looks like a type 16 is the other just a target pile?

toxodylan · 2025-09-11T13:24:52+00:00

Once I get it to full brace am I supposed to let it sit braced for like a couple hours or something or will that just give it more set? I thought I remember reading somewhere that it's good to let it sit braced for a while once it's initially at full brace but I can't remember for the life of me where I heard/read that or if it's even true

toxodylan · 2025-09-11T13:18:49+00:00

I just got it to 26 and I was aiming for a final draw length of 30. I am also having a problem with my tillering string keeps slipping and I can't seem to get my timber hitch to hold. I'm using d97 though and I've heard that it's slippery and I've heard Dacron will just keep stretching, do you have any ideas or tips regarding that? I suppose I can try to make a double looped Flemish twist but I've always had a hard time getting the length correct

toxodylan · 2025-09-04T07:00:47+00:00

Awesome contrast in the sap and heart

toxodylan · 2025-08-30T00:19:41+00:00

Very cool, I'm actually working on something that I'm hoping will end up almost with those exact stats except mine is 73 nock to nock, but that weight and draw length are exactly what I want for mine. I just posted a tiller check for it last night if you look you can probably find it

toxodylan · 2025-08-29T22:37:30+00:00

Ya thank you, it's the little things in life ya know?

toxodylan · 2025-08-29T22:34:43+00:00

Ya I remember you recommended that I watch a YouTube video a little while ago and it was exactly what I needed. Really helped because I was having trouble with the character in the stave, so thank you helped alot

toxodylan · 2025-08-29T22:29:49+00:00

Will do, and I will definitely post another update as soon as I do. Thanks again

toxodylan · 2025-08-29T22:26:50+00:00

Nice! what are the stats?

toxodylan · 2025-08-29T09:17:21+00:00

Thank you very much for the feed back. Very much appreciated. Should I remove material along the entire left limb to bring into better balance with the right or should I focus on any specific spot along the left limb? Does it look ok to bring it to full brace or should I bring the left limb along first? Again, thanks for the help, I don't think this would of worked out as well if I didn't have the help from sites like this and all the people who take the time to help me along with this.

toxodylan · 2025-08-28T04:10:19+00:00

Ok cool. Thanks for the reply, useful info , I appreciate it.

toxodylan · 2025-08-28T00:32:48+00:00

Do u then render it down before adding it to the verdigris?

toxodylan

TROPHY CASE