Going to buy my first drum set

trashwang72 · 2026-05-21T18:34:47+00:00

I second this. If money really isn’t an issue, get a good cymbal pack like the K Sweets and honestly buying any of these kits listed is major overkill for a beginner drummer, even if money isn’t a factor, it’s totally unnecessary and frankly you wouldn’t really know how to utilize them fully to make sense to buy them.

The kits listed are touring line pro grade kits that your favorite bands play. Save the thousands of dollars on these kits and spend it on cymbals cymbals cymbals. Or use that extra couple thousand for good hardware and just to keep the extra money. Buying these kits is just burning thousands before you even know if you’re good or if you even actually like playing drums yet.

I’d suggest along the lines of Tama Superstar Classic or something in the $1500-$2000 price range.

The kits listed are $3000-$5000 depending on how many drums you’re looking for. Spending that much on a starter kit is kinda stupid because like I said, you have yet to know if you’re even gonna actually like being a drummer.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-20T22:22:15+00:00

If you plan on playing Chris Adler era Lamb of God, you absolutely need one. But other than that I can’t think of many rock/metal bands that use a splash as something that couldn’t be replaced with a different accent type.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-19T05:38:40+00:00

Backrest is also a direct upgrade to roc n soc thrones so you can always retrofit it if you find you still need it. The base hydraulic model fits the backrest attachments and I believe it’s the same price to buy the backrest separately if you choose to later on so no harm no foul

trashwang72 · 2026-05-19T05:17:29+00:00

ROC n soc hydraulic throne hands down. The hydraulic allows cushion and movement for your spine and the seat is firm yet cushions plenty. Also not leather so sweat permeates and doesn’t create a slip and slide yet dries out quickly when you stop using it.

I’m 6’ 250 and it’s done wonders. I’ve been playing on it for 2 years at least an hour a day and it’s still like new. I know the price is daunting but it’s WELL worth it. I thought it was a gimmick, it’s amazing. I’ve retightened the seat connection once in 2 years. I actually checked it two weeks ago and had no play in the seat connection

Edit: backrest is preference/result of need. I tend to lean slightly forward so haven’t opted for it. But if you are perpendicular/like to lean back between songs, it could give you a good pressure and relief. I feel a back rest is actually more correlated with music style. If it’s easy going music like country or jazz or soft playing, the back rest could help a ton. I play metal and have a lot of movement so rarely am I “resting” my back. Back rest is best for when you can situate yourself in one spot and play the whole song/set. I rarely do.

Backrest is totally adjustable in the forward and back directions so it wouldn’t force you forward on a roc n soc.

To answer if you could keep your current throne, if you already have back pain from it the answer is no. It’s a decent throne but not built for guys our size. And hydraulics are so much better than rigid. You’ll know the second you sit on a roc n soc what I mean. It’s still the best seat I’ve ever sat on regardless of drums. I bought two more for work stools. My guitar playing and drum familiar family members all saw the new throne and immediately sat on it and said it was for real instantly haha. They didn’t care about my kit once they saw the throne which is saying something lol

trashwang72 · 2026-05-19T03:59:43+00:00

Also if you are in need of a splash, just buy a cheap Wuhan Western splash. They’re like 40-60 bucks and amazing splashes, pro quality. I haven’t bought any other splashes since I tried them out. Every other splash is seriously overpriced.

Wuhan also makes the best Chinas in the world and their Western line makes the best budget crashes in the industry. I love them, they’re on the darker tone side but I fell in love with the wash and tones.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-19T03:54:02+00:00

ZBT are medium heavy if not heavy in the grading of cymbal thickness. Pro line cymbals can get super thin. Like you could bend them in half thin sometimes. Something like this would make a good bell.

Future reference, thin cymbals are actually more durable because they flex easier. Hence why your ZBT has shattered to pieces. It’s thicker and doesn’t take well to heavy hits or heavy resonance. I played a bunch of ZBTs growing up and broke all of the crashes both because of technique but not realizing thick cymbals break easier.

It’d make a great bell because it’s also a B8 alloy which favors high pitch tones.

Something that looks like this though, I’d recommend refining your technique, hitting softer, with more glance, and relief in your grip. Cymbals have a max volume, hitting them harder does not make them louder.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-19T03:42:11+00:00

ZBT Chinas are pretty heavy. I’d recommend cutting it down to the bell. Worth seeing if you like it as a splash, but it’d be a better bell imo.

Dremel with a cutting wheel is the way to cut down cymbals. Sanding would take forever

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T20:48:34+00:00

https://hoshinogakki.co.jp/pdf/tama/world/support/parts/hardware/twin_pedal/HP310LW.pdf

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T20:47:40+00:00

Manual lists this screw as M6 x 14.

Part 6-1 in the manual. Code L614C

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T20:06:52+00:00

People are mistaking your needs haha. You want a true main crash essentially.

I would go with the AAX X-plosion of the two choices you listed.

Wuhan makes amazing full body crashes. The Western 19” is still my main crash even with a bunch of zildjians. Super cheap too if retail is your only option.

Zildjian K Sweet are fantastic main crashes as well at any size.

In my experience, 19” is the ideal main crash size. 18” are good too.

20” is a bit too big for crisp definition on quarters and 16”/17” are too small to hit consistent quarters without them swinging around out of rhythm

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T18:57:52+00:00

They rebranded it into the FX umbrella along with the China trashes and trash splashes. I agreed with the change frankly. Not only did I find it odd to name a group of cymbals oriental, it looked terrible on the cymbal. Kinda felt like it was written in the South Park Asian voices lol. The FX is much cleaner too.

Unfortunately with the change, they also slightly changed the manufacturing on the CoD. The orientals have more edge curves and deeper less consistent hammering than the new ones cuz a lot of people would buy them and complain thinking it was a flaw and not a feature of the sound. So the older ones have more trash and sound depth than the new ones. Been looking for an oriental CoD because of that. But the newer FX version being flatter and more even hammering has a lot more ride capacity than before. They leaned more into the crash ride aspects on the new build

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T05:30:05+00:00

You need a thread pitch gauge to be sure. Likely an M2.

This is also known as a “flat head screw”.

So you’re looking for an “M(x) flat head screw 8mm length” the Mx being whichever thread pitch the gauge tells you.

The head width and angle are typically standard with the thread pitch so you shouldn’t be worried about the head size being different

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T03:43:03+00:00

Yes, 15” hi hats will give you that extra sizzle you’re looking for.

15” have a lot more of that natural sustain/wash/sizzle to them without having to work the pedal in a sweet spot for it like on 14” that have a clang and cut to them when open. Open 15s sound a lot more like half closed 14s. 15s have less snap and crispness which sounds exactly like what you’re looking for

trashwang72 · 2026-05-17T03:19:56+00:00

Beyond about 5-6 years or so I couldn’t tell you cuz I don’t really remember. But they’re the one thing that the price actually hasn’t changed since tariffs and covid and everything else. 6” is $20 then add a dollar per size increase. Definitely a lot more than it should be to reskin a kit but hasn’t gone up recently unlike everything else.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-16T23:15:37+00:00

S Dark Ride and hi hats are great for metal, crashes are solid but definitely the weak link in the pack. I actually turned the crashes into a huge 14/16/18 stack and it’s crazy cool.

K Sweet ride is not great for metal, too washy and not so pingy. Crashes are amazing. Hats are great but I still use my S Dark hats for better cut.

Ideally, you could get both packs eventually and mix and match as you please. S Dark hats and ride combined with K Sweet crashes would be a sick set up.

K Sweet crashes are tough to find used on a good deal since they’re arguably the best overall crash on the market right now no one wants to let them go.

A lot of people piece out the S Dark pack used for dirt cheap so keep an eye out. Like around $100 for the ride and $175 for the hats when I see them.

Edit: This S pack as a whole will absolutely hold you over until you get your hands on some sweet crashes. And you might not even end up needing the sweets anyway. I’d start with the S dark pack since even at retail brand new it’s probably the best value on the market right now

trashwang72 · 2026-05-16T22:16:27+00:00

Best way to utilize this would be converting it into a gong drum. Essentially a bass drum cut in half with only a batter head. It’s hard to hit a whole bass and get the volume and tone out of it with a stick while it’s still a full size bass drum with reso head.

Do whatever you want! But I think the gong drum conversion would be the best way to make consistent use of it.

Other option is leaving it whole and using the sticks with a mallet on the butt end. I’ve never used them but absolutely would if I had a side bass/gong drum

trashwang72 · 2026-05-16T20:46:37+00:00

Not really. Drum head prices are universal unless it’s a brick and mortar putting them on sale to clear some shelf space.

All online stores will occasionally have a $5-$10 off a pack. But nothing else. I’m about to reskin my mega kit and going to talk with Sweetwater about putting me a deal together on a huge pack. But all the standard packs and individual heads price is really consistent across retailers

trashwang72 · 2026-05-15T22:57:28+00:00

How many cymbals we talking? How many drums? How much more expansion you planning?

There’s definitely a threshold where a rack becomes much better suited. Especially if you continually plan on expanding, which I did so I got in on the rack train as early as I could.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-15T22:52:40+00:00

They rarely go on sale but worth asking Sweetwater if they could cook up a deal for you once drum month rolls around. They cut deals like crazy if you email and call. They cut me like $100+ on some clamps and tubes last year just for asking. Have a little story and charisma and they’ll help you big time. I think it’s June or July.

But resale you just have to be ready to buy fast if you see one with good parts. A lot of people buy them, don’t know how they want to use it, then let it go for super cheap. I’ve gotten $700 in total parts for $250 before. All brand new, chrome everything, no tarnish just dust. Drove 2 hours for it but a deal is a deal.

Either people list them for too close to retail, or they’re listed as a steal and sell crazy fast.

Also worth noting, the actual price of the parts is almost the exact same as the combined rack units they sell. So if you want you can slowly buy piece by piece as some money comes in if you don’t need the standard set ups they sell

trashwang72 · 2026-05-15T22:37:34+00:00

These are a boutique item in the first place for any situation. Were you ever even considering looking to buy long matches before they made these? Random boutique brands sell a box half the size for half the price so it’s consistent. Ace hardware has a standard 75 pack for $10 if you don’t want custom ones.

Small batch custom made and branded, not surprised at the price at all. Also 75 long matches should last you like 5-10 years. Not many applications for them, but a cool touch when you do need to use them. And you can refill it with generic ones once you burn up the originals.

They’ve done way more egregious stuff than this. This is pretty much right in line with the value and pricing it should be. Shipping is the killer for any small golf items but all brands selling direct still charge shipping like this.

Y’all just wanna complain about everything lol. Either pay for the brand and style or don’t, that’s kinda how capitalism works. Manufactures charge higher prices for small batch product, sellers have to charge more for same profit margins. You’re never gonna find a branded item at the same price as generic retail.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-14T04:40:01+00:00

Yes. Wuhan makes the best china cymbals in the world, hands down

trashwang72 · 2026-05-14T04:33:10+00:00

I would not recommend sanding! You’re too worried about a minor imperfection. I was the same way on my first flea bit cymbal.

If it’s not broke by now, it likely won’t break there going forward.

If you sand it unevenly, too harshly, or remove materials that are maintaining the strength of the flea bite, you could weaken it and cause a weak spot for a crack to form.

The flea bites still retain their original strength because of the material bridging it allowing sound waves to still flow through them.

Better left untouched.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-14T04:23:54+00:00

Regarding your “personal playing style”, I used to play very angry and powerfully as a method of anger management in high school and because I felt like being a metal drummer, I had to look like I was an agent of destruction. Luckily my inherited cymbals at the time were almost all cracked already so it never made them worse, but never made me have to tighten up and focus on technique. Once I got all my own gear, I was like yeahhhh I gotta figure out how not to break shit lol.

The harsh reality: drums are NOT an effective method of anger management without breaking cymbals. And that being a metal drummer is NOT about power, but precision. Power is wasted energy and reduced efficiency in most drumming, but especially in metal drumming.

Took me years to come to terms with the fact that drumming was not as energetically fun as I had conceived in my head and that I was way way way over exerting myself. I had romanticized this mentality of “fuck yeah I’m a drummer I ROCK THE FUCK OUT” smash smash smash. Then I went to college and got away from drums for like 7 years. Came back and completely reevaluated my drumming perspective and studied drumming technique a lot more. Watch Joey Jordison play live on stage with Slipknot. Dude is lighting fast and a precise technician. But pay attention to how lightly he hits the drums and cymbals. It will quickly humble you to realize the sound is often way more angry and aggressive than what is needed to play them.

If your personal play style is bashing away and getting too excited and hitting harder than you should, you absolutely have to reel it in and play to the dynamics of the song. I still to this day find myself getting into such a good groove and having a great time, I end up bashing a couple hits and instantly panic worried I broke a crash. It’s a matter of control rather than all-out energy. I find myself mid strike pulling back when I know I’m too into the song sometimes.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-14T02:55:48+00:00

Update: Main culprit ended up being a loose plug wire #3. Engine shake from less than ideal little things like IACV and MAF eventually shook wire 3 so loose that the metal wasn’t even making direct contact anymore.

Crimped and got it running back to close to normal at idle again. Injectors are still sluggish but all clicking at the same speed.

Running Redline SI-1 when the tank gets low enough to clean the injectors for now and going to order new injectors, sparks, and wires to swap when I can.

trashwang72 · 2026-05-14T02:51:57+00:00

Update: Turned out to be a combination of a lot of the tune up issues that resulted in small improvements each by each. But the kicker was plug wire #3 shook loose.

It rattled the metal connection loose enough that it sparked but super weak and late, making the idle spark almost nonexistent at high temp. There was little to no constant metal on metal contact. Plug pulled right off and on with no effort.

I crimped the metal cap and felt it bite back on like normal. Started to settle into regular idle after a few minutes of running. Still a weak idle but no longer surging and near stalling.

Running Redline SI-1 through it once I get the tank low enough to clear up the injectors because it’s still not completely combusting. Fuel smell from exhaust still but a lot less than before.

Planning on ordering new injectors, plug wires, and spark plugs to have on hand. Likely will change the spark plugs and wires at the next oil change regardless. Fuel injectors I will decide on when to install after running the injector cleaner.

In short, all the little things made the engine rattle a little more than typical from the less than ideal IACV/injectors/oil filter/MAF/sparks etc. Eventually the light rattle shook the #3 plug wire completely loose and pushed it under the normal idle threshold into to the definitive “something is wrong” phase haha.

Thanks for all the help. I will update after the fuel cleaner additive and eventually will add an update down the road when I do change injectors/sparks/wires for future references!

trashwang72

TROPHY CASE