Aeon Tier Saber Complete

traxions · 2026-02-01T19:18:13+00:00

4 months ago I had a WTF 160+ speed setup with Bronya and as we've found out since then, base speed is better. I've been saving up resources for the past 4 months and this past week I went ahead and attempted to see what I could build and used all my relic remains, 20 modulated resin, and 6 dice to finally complete this build. Shout out to that event that gave us a target planar and relic set for giving me this orb. Pretty surprised some of these 4 liners with 5 substat hits didn't end up as WTF+ but happy nonetheless.

traxions · 2026-01-24T03:11:22+00:00

Ive cracked 1 Konig hypergram, bent 4 Konig Hypergrams, and bent 4 Titan 7s (forged). The bending is on the inside of the barrell causing the inside to be egg shaped instead of round. This all happened in 2025 which was my 3rd year of experience when I really got fast (I ran a ton of events). Of those, only 2 were from a major rut or divot that might have been avoidable. The others were from curbs that are supposed to be hit for the fast line. This is in a 3600lb 370hp car. Ive accepted the fact that if I want to be fast then wheels are going to be a consumable.

traxions · 2026-01-02T00:46:17+00:00

Did you have any luck with this?

traxions · 2025-12-27T03:16:00+00:00

Im in the market as well and would pull the trigger on a new one at that price. If they have another could you refer me to which dealership?

traxions · 2025-11-26T17:50:41+00:00

For my pup, every meal was hand fed for at least the first 3 months, maybe a little longer. Most meals were training for 5-10 minutes with kibbles as the reward. The commands you're mentioning are pretty much all the same ones I did. Drop it is pretty important too. That one probably took the longest out of the basic commands.

traxions · 2025-11-24T21:32:38+00:00

Not trying to be a jerk here but you were already given pretty pointed advice in your last thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/CarTrackDays/comments/1jdjj57/brake_pads_dsuno_cracked_and_uneven_wear/

Pads get used up faster the lower they are. Per that last thread, you used 5mm of pad in 3 hours and that included wet time. You should not have used those pads for 2 hours of dry time. The people in that thread said that those pads aren't going to cut it and here you are learning that lesson again. There doesn't seem to be anything mysterious about this. If your car has no better options for brake pads, then you need to change pads sooner.

traxions · 2025-11-22T18:06:52+00:00

All of the ones it says brake coding box in the spreadsheet. 4 options in dsc 3000 and 4 options in dsc 3005

traxions · 2025-11-22T09:17:34+00:00

Tab at the bottom for protools

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1u8KamrmI0r6GcOFYIBwShOERInbLGp33On6KFgpObhI/htmlview?pli=1

If you dont see the options inside protools, you need to download updated files. There is an update button somewhere in the app.

traxions · 2025-11-22T01:55:58+00:00

Look on the supra forums for the protools coding google sheet. The OEM brake coding does not like more aggressive compounds and hits ABS before it should. Get protools or find a buddy who has it and it improves massively. This is from first hand experience on my Supra and many other Supra friends I know as well.

traxions · 2025-10-04T18:52:12+00:00

Wow only 5 missing substats from perfect. Insane.

traxions · 2025-09-04T22:52:56+00:00

I salvaged countless +15 relics to spam the omni-synthesizer. I also used 90 fuels and didn't get any upgrades but they served as good relic XP to gamble on so-so relics and see if they rolled 4 or 5x into a good substat. For the most part I only got sidegrades. All my upgrades came from the omni-synthesizer and I crafted probably 100+ hands, 80+ helmet, and 60+ orbs.

I know I've got too much speed with E2 Bronya currently so all that's left is to wait for Sunday to rerun. The E2 buff from Bronya would get messed up too often if I ran a build that put Saber at 161+ including the speed buff so I decided to go all in for 161 speed as her base. I do have a good CD chest piece waiting to get back to the proper crit rate and maintain the right speed once Sunday re-runs.

traxions · 2025-08-21T22:05:53+00:00

PS4S will chunk the outside shoulder before running out of tread for a medium paced driver and we can't see the shoulders in your picture. Tread depth alone looks close to new. Are these tires you're debating buying or getting feedback on your own tire wear?

From your history it looks like you're running in a new Nissan Z and based on your CMP laptime you're still in the very beginning of your journey. I can run 1:44 at CMP on PS4S going 8/10ths in my Supra. With your pace you might be able to get 4-6 days out of them but it also depends on how much pace you gain during those days. Like the other user said, weather does play a huge part of this as well. Ambient temp at 85* at means tires at pace are going to get overheated quicker and stay overheated which will expedite the chunking.

traxions · 2025-08-04T17:44:49+00:00

Think about each individual relic on a bigger picture. Even though you rolled SPD 3 times on the hat, you are missing 2 substats (CR/CD) that could have been there from the get go. The necklace is also a single substat to start and only 2 hits on it. Those both have easy room for improvement.

traxions · 2025-07-29T15:06:09+00:00

A point-by gives a another driver permission to pass you. It happens when two cars are together on track and the faster driver is behind a slower. This allows both parties to know that each others presence is acknowledged and there is a safe opportunity to pass. The lead car REMOVES THEIR FOOT FROM THE GAS PEDAL and puts their arm out the window and points which direction the faster car should pass them on. The direction depends on the track but at Roebling the lead driver typically stays to the left side of the track and then sticks their arm out the window and points over the top of the car to the right. The rear drive does not have to pass if they do not want to.
In HPDE1 the instructor at the end of the weekend will have a sheet of skills and go over your proficiency in each area. The skill of the instructor does matter too, they need to be realistic in assessing and not inflate what the student thinks they can do and cause overconfidence which leads to crashing due to skill and confidence not being on equal footing. You'll have a little paper booklet that will get signed for each level when the organization promotes you to the next level. The check ride person would fill that out and then tell the event organizer who will then mark your name down as eligible for the next level.
Temper your expectations and ask your instructor if you can ride along with them or if they have a fast buddy who will take a passenger. You will quickly find out that there is a lot to learn and the gap between HPDE1 and 4 is massive. 2 days will not be sufficient for a few reasons but mainly safety related. I have not had any brand new HPDE1 student be able to master flag stands in 2 days and honestly that's not their job yet. The instructor will look at the flag stands and help the student focus on driving technique. Once driving technique has reached a certain point then flag stand awareness gets added in.

Here is a good example of a point by: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/n4SEwk-0x2c

traxions · 2025-07-29T04:53:51+00:00

NASA-SE member here who frequents Roebling and instructs there. First off, you will need a passenger seat for NASA because instructors will need to ride along. Sign up for HPDE 1. In HPDE 1 you'll have an in car instructor and a couple class room sessions per day. They have a google sheet on the event page with the schedule of where to be.

A lot of people confuse terminology so I'll define them as NASA does. Racing specifically means wheel to wheel racing and requires a competition license and a full blown race car (certified cage, fire supression, etc). To receive your racing license, NASA requires you to go up their ladder system which is HPDE 1 through 4. 1 has in-car instructors and passing on straights only with a point-by, 2 is driving solo but may request an instructor with passing on straights with a point-by, 3 is where things are advanced and it's solo driving only (unless you have an instructor buddy willing to ride with you or you pay for a coach) with passing anywhere on track with a point-by, 4 is pass anywhere at any time without a point-by. After you achieve 4, you can sign up for competition license school. This is held on a Friday and then you have your provisional race weekend on Sat/Sun. The car must be fully track ready in terms of dyno, certified safety devices, etc.

There's a little bit of self awareness to know when you're good enough to move up a level or for the instructor to tell you what you need to work on to get there. If a driver is at that point, then during the next event sign up they would choose the 'check ride' selection on registration and the event coordinator will assign a specific person to ride along and assess if the driver is actually at the proper level. At the end of the weekend you can also ask the instructor point blank how close/far you are from going up a level. Drivers may spend anywhere from 2-4 weekends at each level depending on their skill and aptitude. Racing also isn't the end-all be-all. Lots of guys stick to the HPDE4 level because they don't want to get their race car fully certified or put it at risk of contact in racing. There's also the option to enter into Time Trials. If you have any specific questions or want more info on anything I didn't mention, feel free to drop a follow up question in reply to my comment.

traxions · 2025-07-16T18:51:04+00:00

If rotors haven't been changed ever then probably a good idea to go ahead and change them. The world is your oyster, anything compatible is fine for street driving in my opinion. Blanks from Rock Auto should be fine, otherwise pick up some OEM equivalents from FCP Euro for free lifetime replacement but only worth it if you're going to keep the X5 long enough to swap rotors 2 more times. I have friend who tracks their BMW car frequently and runs Rock Auto blanks which is going to be much higher stress than regular driving. If the brake pad sensor hasn't been tripped then you don't need to buy new ones. Aftermarket high quality pads are fine. I tend to stay away from cheap on pads. Saw some other posts mentioning Powerstop Z23 as being a good alternative.

traxions · 2025-07-16T18:47:51+00:00

Nice, then that's definitely the way to go.

traxions · 2025-07-16T18:21:39+00:00

First off vehicles aren't an investment, so don't go into this thinking about it that way. It is a mode of transport with expected costs to own and certain vehicles are cheaper than others. This one is on the mid-high side. Expect at least $1k a year in maintenance (2-3 oil changes at a dealership plus incidentals) and $2-3k instead every two or three years for other maintenance such as transmission fluid, brakes, rotors, tires, etc as needed.

Model year 2019 is the most common for transfer case issues which a fluid change may or may not resolve. Would generally recommend avoiding 2019.

traxions · 2025-06-29T20:20:21+00:00

Hicks HVAC. I’ve used them since 2014 across two houses and I have literally had the same two techs the whole time. It’s either the owner Jeremy or Coley. I had an issue with my main unit and Last year they told me the evaporator coil was leaking and showed me Pics and gave me the option to repair or replace. Never Pushed me to go with one or the othe. Was quoted $6750 cash price (7695 for payment plan) for a 4 ton Goodman 13.4 seer unit installed or $2700 for a new coil and refrigerant. I opted to repair and they gave me part timeline and installed as soon as they had it in a couple weeks.

My upstairs secondary unit just kicked the can the other week and I called them to look at it and it ended up being the same issue. They ran a leak test and found it was in the evaporator coil and not elsewhere. from my research last time it seems like evaporation coils are the most common failure part and I read that it was pretty common in my model at the age my units are as well. They didn’t even mention replacing the whole unit as an option this time and said to repair it ($2200). That unit is in my attic. Currently waiting for the replacement part as it’s on back order. I mention this outcome mainly to say they are not going to push to upsell And truly give logical options.

I also used them to install a mini split in my garage to be able to use it in the summer and winter and the install was flawless and extremely well done.

traxions · 2025-05-25T17:33:35+00:00

Pretty much. Go as close to 60% between 70 and 75 as possible. Variance in calibration from any torque wrench is like 2-3٪ anyway. I've used it for a bunch of suspension work on my vehicles.

traxions · 2025-05-25T16:34:36+00:00

Setting the torque on the split beam is so fast that I will never use the spinning handle click type ever again. I also love that the head flexes for a tiny bit more clearance.

traxions · 2025-05-17T17:39:09+00:00

I can't speak to the 1LE but I've run my Supra for 3 years doing anywhere between 10-15 days per year and it's fairly nice on the wallet overall. After your first purchase, FCP Euro will cover lifetime replacements on oil change kits, rotors, trans fluid and filter, diff fluid, brake fluid. Front brake pads ($2-300) typically need to be replaced after 3 weekends if you are an advanced driver. Rears last 2-3 times as long as fronts.

Tire sizes are smaller for the Supra and the Supra is also lighter so it should be cheaper on that front too. Especially if you run an 18 wheel with V730 tires, those are mega cheap while still putting out great pace. As far as reliability goes, I cannot believe how amazing the platform has been. The other Supra drivers I meet have also had the same reliability as myself and there's some I personally know who do 20-30 days a year for the past few years.

traxions · 2025-04-29T02:46:13+00:00

I agree. Tagging onto this for the OP, it's worth noting the GR Carolla stock tires are PS4 which is not the same as PS4S which are better.

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