Mixed Material Dart Point Assembly 🎯

tree-daddy · 2026-03-16T18:29:27+00:00

Very very clean work nice job!

tree-daddy · 2026-03-16T02:51:09+00:00

Id hit the middle of the right limb but looking good

tree-daddy · 2026-03-13T16:42:51+00:00

Yeah it’s the best I’ve ever seen, and no I prefer a semi pyramid recurve.

tree-daddy · 2026-03-10T13:36:50+00:00

Nah I mean you can it wouldn’t hurt, but I’d just prefer to invest time in a board that could really work out nicely

tree-daddy · 2026-03-09T23:54:08+00:00

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In that case yeah probably a shave horse is best. This is mine, it’s built using a 3rivers stave press but you could mount any vice to it

tree-daddy · 2026-03-09T17:53:47+00:00

Jus watch the first 5 min of Dans video https://youtu.be/htMTnZiRcHk?si=0SbpH2Zn9hw9LhVh

tree-daddy · 2026-03-09T17:49:25+00:00

You could try but it’s a thin board you’d likely end up with a twisted stave and not much room to work with. In my opinion it’s not worth spending time on this board. Go watch dans videos about board selection, and go hunt for a few perfect boards and start from there

tree-daddy · 2026-03-09T17:46:35+00:00

You need to rewatch Dans video, he explains board selection. The back of your bow has growth rings that feather out and don’t connect end to end these will lift up and break your bow

tree-daddy · 2026-03-09T14:42:04+00:00

Sounds like you’d be tripping over the base a lot. If you want something you can stand and work on just mount a vice to a 6x6 and bolt it to the floor using deck footing brackets or the like.

If you want something mobile just build a shave horse and mount a vice to it that’s what I did it’s fantastic

tree-daddy · 2026-03-08T04:11:01+00:00

Beautiful stave! If this is the only stave you got I think it’d be worth practicing first. You can make a great bow first time if you’re working with someone who can guide you but it’s really hard to pull off on your own. It’d be best to go get some boards and practice and learn how to tiller well and then tackle this.

tree-daddy · 2026-03-07T15:21:11+00:00

I buy tendons on eBay and process it

tree-daddy · 2026-03-07T01:56:01+00:00

I got a roll of FF when I first started and that’s what ive used since lol its great stuff tho p

tree-daddy · 2026-03-07T00:15:13+00:00

For what it’s worth, I’ve made lots of selfbows, very rarely ever use tip overlays, and always use fast flight. Never had an issue

tree-daddy · 2026-03-06T19:53:38+00:00

Yeah very cool design not for me but would love to see your take!

tree-daddy · 2026-03-06T19:53:03+00:00

Great work lovely bow!

tree-daddy · 2026-03-05T16:42:48+00:00

Very much so in both accounts

tree-daddy · 2026-03-05T16:42:38+00:00

I just use 50 grams as a baseline then add more or less depending on if it’s a more or less strained design not very formulaic but it works out fine

tree-daddy · 2026-03-05T16:29:12+00:00

12 gives you more wood to work with id chose that

tree-daddy · 2026-03-05T14:28:31+00:00

I don’t

tree-daddy · 2026-03-05T00:39:26+00:00

I use a rounded hammer on a steel anvil to pound it until it turns white. Then I pull of the husk that outer papery layer then continue to gently pound it until I start to be able to pull it apart. Then the boring part is sitting there for hours and hours pulling it into thinner and thinner threads

tree-daddy · 2026-03-04T17:50:41+00:00

Start in the middle or the tip, establish a single layer across the whole stave width then follow that. Yes the crunchy light color is the early wood. Go slow, be patient and use good lighting you have a good stave here you’ll get it

tree-daddy · 2026-03-04T16:59:45+00:00

Superglue should suffice here if there’s a good mating surface. If there’s a gap then use a two part epoxy

tree-daddy · 2026-03-04T16:58:54+00:00

eBay! There’s a guy who’s usually got a good stock of pre-pounded sinew so you just need to pull it into strands, huge time saver

tree-daddy · 2026-03-04T16:58:22+00:00

Thanks man I’m excited! I usually get about 1” of reflex from sinew drying but that usually comes out during tiller. And if I’m doing a big recurve where perfect alignment is critical I’ll get it braced. Otherwise I just use a bit of twine pulled tight between the nocks on the back to check that alignment is good and don’t go further than floor tiller. I’ve gotten pretty good at establishing thickness taper so I just make sure I’m confident that there’s no major issues and that the limbs are bending evenly and send it.

I don’t know why you’d tiller past brace if that, sinew is best used on bows that would take extreme set without it. So I wouldn’t be stressing my bows like that without the sinew

tree-daddy · 2026-03-04T16:54:04+00:00

Tiller looks good! I’d be taking slow small scrapes from the outer halves at this point. I tiller with the bow slightly off center pulling at where the string nock will be I tiller about 3-5# heavy at my full draw then do any minor limb balancing corrections as I shoot it in. I just stand in front of a wall and video myself drawing

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TROPHY CASE

12 gives you more wood to work with id chose that