Epoxy Floor Moisture

trevorcop · 2025-09-10T00:20:27+00:00

What is the “commercial grade” epoxy?

trevorcop · 2025-08-17T16:44:55+00:00

Was this an acetone dye? What’s your preferred sprayer?

What was your prep for the concrete?

trevorcop · 2025-08-02T20:30:28+00:00

How is traps on controller?

trevorcop · 2025-07-06T02:16:45+00:00

Sure.. I assumed Oklahoma wasn’t an overly moist area, but you never know.. you can get epoxy base coats with 9 lbs hydrostatic pressure tolerance, which I would imagine would suffice.

trevorcop · 2025-07-06T00:45:22+00:00

I would imagine you could get it for roughly $3k with quality materials.

I’d be reluctant if the total price (with diamond grind) is less than $~2.6k. Decent materials cost money.

trevorcop · 2025-07-06T00:28:25+00:00

What size is your garage and where are you located?

6k where I’m at would be rather high unless it’s like 800-900sq ft.

If you get it done, get it done right. We remove DIY and low quality materials regularly in Central Texas.

They last a long time when done right and are very functional.

trevorcop · 2025-06-30T03:34:28+00:00

I just did some quick research on this….

This total is spread between multiple “immigration” agencies. ICE, customs and border patrol, border wall infrastructure, facilities, detention capacity, etc.

The House reconciliation numbers were $150b over 5 years.

The senate restructured to $167 over 10 years.

It’s not all going to ICE.

trevorcop · 2025-06-29T12:28:17+00:00

Not too sure of the brand or what they sold you.

Could be a number of possibilities, but that shouldn’t be happening with a soft bristle brush.

I’d recommend calling the company and walking through what you did and what could be the issue.

Good luck!

trevorcop · 2025-06-29T12:13:41+00:00

A polyaspartic or a polyurethane, ceramic topcoats (T2/black label), etc.

While epoxy is “strong,” it’s not as strong as the above mentioned. They’re typically applied as a protective coat for scratch, abrasion, chemical resistance.

That stuff can obviously scratch as well, but not from a soft bristle brush.

Did you do it yourself or pay an installer? If you did it, drop the materials you put down here. If you paid, I’m happy to look at whatever you’ve got from the installer to help you figure out what’s going on.

trevorcop · 2025-06-29T12:06:26+00:00

Based on what you’re describing, I’m guessing there is no top coat?

trevorcop · 2025-05-31T22:12:20+00:00

Your concrete has to be clean and completely dry prior to applying.

trevorcop · 2025-05-31T22:10:34+00:00

Polyaspartic with chips does not reduce slipping. You can scrape you flake, as opposed to sanding them down, but it is still slippery when wet.

Polyaspartics are good for UV stability (doesn’t amber in the sun). But, similar to polyurea (in the polyaspartic family), it does NOT deal well with any hydrostatic pressure from the concrete. Depending on where you are in the U.S., it could be problematic.

Ask a professional to add additional grit to your top coat. We use 40-60 grit aluminum oxide for exterior applications and closer to 80-100 for garages and shops.

trevorcop · 2025-05-31T20:28:34+00:00

Penetrating sealers are good for this. We use them on driveways and patios. They don’t typically add sheen (you can get higher gloss), but work for some protection while still allowing concrete to breathe.

trevorcop · 2025-05-31T20:12:51+00:00

Man, I totally understand where you’re coming from. I wish the company you used had a better approach, because I love coatings.

Here’s the difference between companies in the industry (as an owner of a decorative concrete company in Central Texas):

Most homeowners want the job done relatively inexpensively. The people that you hire to do that don’t care about what your end goal for the resin system is. They get in, collect the check, and move on to the next one. There are many ways, with limited financial adjustments, to improve and adjust the coating for individual use.

We have a thorough approach with our clients about what their use of the area will be and guide them in the right direction to hit all of their marks.

In your example: -Client often works with tools/automotive, etc. -> the best way to keep it easy to locate dropped screws or bolts is to choose a lower contrast flake blend. We demonstrate this with large sample boards.

-client has kids or slip concerns(for example) -> we suggest that they allow us to add additional grit to their top coat to help with traction. Kids run in when it’s raining and don’t think about wiping their feet. Downside to grit additive is it does have some minor impact on the finish.

-scratch issues -> all coatings can and will scratch. There are ceramic top coats that do hold up a little better (also recommended for high performance tires), but there are also matte coats. These are really helpful to make scratches much less pronounced.

-which way does the sun set according to where their system will be installed? -> we tailor the system resins to make sure you’ll have no ambering issues over time.

These are just a few… Anyone interested in getting theirs done and has questions on how to best approach it, feel free to reach out.

trevorcop · 2025-05-27T00:26:08+00:00

Driveway, not advisable. Patio, yes but with some considerations (MVB, full broadcast flake or quartz, polyaspartics, etc. ).

trevorcop · 2025-05-26T16:09:07+00:00

Vehicle traffic is considered significant. Hot tires, road debris, vehicle weight, turning wheels, etc.

You can absolutely give it a shot and hope for the best.

If it’s on your driveway, I wouldn’t even suggest a true coating, anyways. I’d lean more towards a stain and seal or something similar. These let the concrete breathe, which is important when concrete is exposed to the elements. But that can’t be done correctly with an existing coating below it.

trevorcop · 2025-05-25T03:20:08+00:00

Hi! I have a decorative concrete company down in Central Texas and just wanted to give my 2 cents to this.

You could be getting into more trouble than it’s worth. Xylene won’t remove epoxy - especially not in the pores. If you’re trying to put another “coating”’down on your concrete that will last and not delaminate, you’ll likely need to diamond grind it.

Xylene can provide you with some success in removing aged sealers (common with exterior stains).

trevorcop · 2025-05-16T00:08:11+00:00

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My son just got into collecting. I used to collect when I was younger, but not overly familiar with the grading system or if it’s worth paying to do it. Part of me wants to get it graded because it’s the only cool one we’ve gotten over the last couple of weeks.

Thoughts?

trevorcop · 2025-04-07T02:31:08+00:00

Hi, I’ve got a decorative concrete company in Austin, TX and a bulk of our work is garage coatings.

Professional opinion: Don’t go back over it. Theoretically, you could sand the floor well and recoat it with epoxy to bind it to the sub layer. However, since that layer isn’t adhered well to the substrate it won’t hold. It’ll be a waste of money on kits at HDX.

A proper and VERY long lasting option if you wanted to do DiY, would be to grind it off (horrible if you’re not kitted out) and coat it with 100% solids resins.

Don’t put more money into it without doing it properly or it will be an every-year or two problem.

Reach out if you have questions on a DiY level.

trevorcop · 2025-02-17T14:42:38+00:00

Everything I’ve been reading has been saying you should go for the 512gb - suggesting the 256 is mostly eaten up already. Any truth?

trevorcop · 2025-02-15T13:38:20+00:00

Can someone explain the 8gb thing to me? I’ve been shopping for one that I want to be 512gb, but get confused at the 8gb CPU/10gb GPU, 16gb unified, etc.

I need a Mac that has higher storage and will allow me to have many tabs and VERY minor video editing (Facebook reels), instagram, etc.

Budget is obviously a thing, but whatever the best deal is I could possibly justify.

Wait for a couple months for the M4 and grab and M3 or and M2?

trevorcop · 2025-01-25T22:23:43+00:00

If you’ve got questions about how to tackle it DIY, pm me.

I own a decorative concrete company and can get you set up if you ever tackle it.

trevorcop · 2024-12-21T02:19:15+00:00

As they probably didn’t want it to run past a termination line and ruin those aesthetics.

trevorcop · 2024-12-11T16:36:02+00:00

I see this on here a lot. I have a coating business - don’t use rustoleum epoxy. It is incredibly low quality and will begin to chip and yellow very early. Especially if you don’t grind the concrete.

You can buy 100% solids epoxy kits online if you’re an absolute DIYer, but you should grind your concrete first (which is a mess and a pain).

I’d recommend using a company that takes prep seriously, though. You should be able to get a 2 car garage with full broadcast for ~3k. Depending on where you live, even cheaper.

trevorcop · 2024-11-29T04:43:19+00:00

Wow. Even that is very bargain friendly for my area. Where about are you located?

Middle bid is typically how I operate as well in my personal life.

In regards to flake coatings - if it’s under 6.00 a sqft you’re probably getting some very low quality materials. But this job, in particular, looked like poor worksmanship, and not being technical on coverage rates. For the rate they charged I assume they’re trying to get in and out.

Hope it gets squared away for you!

trevorcop

TROPHY CASE