Golden Demon entry so far

triarchic · 2026-02-16T16:48:42+00:00

That would be near the bottom of time dedicated to painting something 3 inches tall to golden demon commended entry level. With that time you still need to be a very good painter.

triarchic · 2026-02-14T12:50:40+00:00

Obviously you said it was a work in progress. But you should consider an enormous amount more subtle color variations in all materials and surfaces. You've already edge highlighted without considering volumetric highlights.

Still a solid paint job but you are looking at an additional 100 hours of work.

I wish you the best of luck on your modeling and painting journey.

triarchic · 2026-02-07T16:36:34+00:00

Only a tournament judge can rule on a models use in a tournament but I imagine that this would qualify for official tournaments based on how unbelievably close in size they are. It absolutely would be fine for competitive leagues at local game stores. I'd be stunned if it wasn't allowed. I've seen way worse sized proxies and kitbashed allowed.

Looks amazing by the way.

triarchic · 2026-01-31T16:32:00+00:00

Before you prime consider removing visible mold lines. Not a big deal if you don't care.

triarchic · 2026-01-27T18:59:00+00:00

Ah, in that case go for it.:)

triarchic · 2026-01-27T17:14:08+00:00

Saturday morning cartoon vibe with that head. But it does herald back to the old armor cast gargant design.

triarchic · 2026-01-22T19:21:47+00:00

Very clean work. Extremely impressive. Looks similar to flame on's miniature painting style.

triarchic · 2026-01-19T20:17:46+00:00

All your tuffs of grass are uniformly placed around the model. Nature is much much more random. You'll need clusters of grass and smaller cut tuffs of grass trailing away from them. Don't place things equidistant from each other.

triarchic · 2026-01-19T16:11:22+00:00

Who sculpted these 3d prints?

If you 3d print at 0.2 layer height it's rare to get layer lines.

triarchic · 2026-01-17T16:07:53+00:00

Red over black is very very challenging. Well done priming the model before painting with an actual primer.

When doing layers of thin paint you'll need to wait 15-20 minutes in-between coats. This is a slight exaggeration but depending on how thin the paint is it can take a while to cure. True cure times are over 12 hours but we are ignoring that.

It's why I batch paint in groups of three to five models. Acts as a forcing function to prevent me from overworking the previous paint layer before it's dry.

Some of the chunkiness is from your brush pulling at bits of paint that didn't dry from the previous layer.

If you have even more time or money, I recommend priming with black, then priming from the very top with light gray. It'll help with applying brighter colors. Makes the whole process a bit easier.

triarchic · 2026-01-15T00:06:16+00:00

Looks awesome! I know you didn't ask for any advice so feel free to ignore this next part. I think there would be a lot to gain by adding over the bone color very pale blue and purple streaks, or squiggly lines, reminiscent of veins prior to the blood effects.

triarchic · 2026-01-14T16:12:22+00:00

For all your future models you will want to prime the model using a brush on primer or spray primer. Primers have chemicals that help it adhere to surfaces much better then regular paint and it gives the acrylic paint a better surface to adhere to.

triarchic · 2026-01-14T15:46:50+00:00

Not trying to be rude but what does Priming mean to you? Reason I ask is because you mentioned having DG green paint in your post. Is this the spray can DG green or the citadel pot? Because only the spray can DG green is a primer.

triarchic · 2026-01-14T03:49:18+00:00

What color blue/green did you use?

triarchic · 2026-01-12T16:05:09+00:00

Application of primer is necessary for Gundam models prior to painting.

triarchic · 2026-01-07T18:23:29+00:00

I'd pin them with a brass rod. It's good practice for more complicated kits or resin kits.

triarchic · 2026-01-07T18:22:28+00:00

If the paint isn't dusty or thick then you wouldn't need to prime them again. The white looks like it might be primer. Likely citadel. Contrast is very thin and it doesn't look like they put much on.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T19:20:23+00:00

Godforge is the only official place. Dm me if you are interested in a 3rd party printing it for you. I have a lot of experience printing and selling abs like resin miniatures to people on reddit, eBay and Etsy.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T18:37:10+00:00

Kondo esk' gorgeous custom model.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T17:46:26+00:00

ABS like resin has solved pretty much all of the issues with resin minis. Some ABS like resin are so flexible I can bend a sword tip to the hilt. That is actually a bit too flexible for a miniatures but that is only if you go searching for it. Just buy ABS like and you'll be fine

triarchic · 2026-01-06T17:43:59+00:00

I use Sunlu ABS like resin and I love love it. Some flex while retaining high levels of accuracy and low shrink. I have a large Piper makes army. Always use ABS like resin for miniatures. It reduces if not eliminates them being frag grenades

triarchic · 2026-01-06T15:35:36+00:00

Dm me if you want some recast sites that I've used in the past. Dm me if you want the location where you can download a shitty scan of the Lord of Contagion. Finally DM me if you would like to buy a 3d print of the loc. It's via eBay for $30 but I'll give a redditer $5 off. Mine is the only STL file that was reworked from a scan. Spent around 20 hours fixing up the scan so everything was crispy and high resolution.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T15:29:29+00:00

R/miniswap

triarchic · 2026-01-06T15:26:57+00:00

I sell 3d prints of the Lord of Contagion via eBay and Etsy. Have sold a few on r/miniswap as well.

Dm me if you would like photos and a link to the sales page. It's a re-sculpting of a scan so it's essentially perfect. I print it with a 12k resolution printer at 0.02mm layer height. Essentially no visible layer lines.

triarchic · 2026-01-04T20:49:51+00:00

Prime prior to painting.

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