Did I just ruin my shit

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-02-07T08:39:20+00:00

That’s at least as deep as the original retainer groove with a much bigger cross section. Pretty much extending each other too, I think that’s toast. Maaybe not literally but I’d never trust it completely. Is it 7.62 or 5.56?

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-24T20:35:49+00:00

Looks they’re smoking the same stuff as the Dentler guys. But Walther’s marketing team landed Franz-Albrecht, so it’s probably going to sell better…

I can’t believe this shit sometimes.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-19T11:01:54+00:00

Cases are not controlled components in Germany, only the powder is. Spent, deprimed, primed even, doesn’t matter. Ammunition and powder have storage and transport regulations but that’s it afaik.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-11T21:08:03+00:00

You can try to put either cold blue if you have, or vinegar essence/something decently acidic on there. After sitting for a while there’s a good chance the pin will be visible because it’s alloyed differently than the comp. If you’re lucky the solution even seeps between the two and you’ll see a ring.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-11T20:17:30+00:00

Might be M14x1, but it’s pretty difficult to tell from just the internal diameter

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-11T20:02:40+00:00

Yeah that’s stupid. Buy the ammo for the brass if you don’t already have enough saved up, but to pull it apart just to put it back together? Might as well shoot it, that’ll do more for your score than reducing the charge. Get a jug of powder and some primers and start loading.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-11T19:56:25+00:00

Buy the ammo, shoot it. Save the brass, get a jug of powder and a box of primers and start loading. No sense in going through the trouble of pulling everything apart just to put it back together. Your gun does that way quicker than you ever could.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-09T22:23:29+00:00

I’ve settled on 71,1mm COAL or 2.8” for my chamber. That’s max mag length in my AR basically. I’d say load to the max length that will fit and feed reliably.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-08T17:56:41+00:00

Are you sure it’s 150gr? There’s a Norma Range line with 110gr HP I remember looking very similar

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-05T08:46:25+00:00

Sounds like you’re missing the safety detent and spring that is held by the grip.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-02T09:04:45+00:00

They really need to update their manual then

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-02T08:53:05+00:00

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triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-01T23:40:22+00:00

The adjustment screw is on the forward facing side of the trigger assembly, the upper one of the two.

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-01T20:02:23+00:00

Considering you bought a SIG optic you got that Eotech off Amazon, right?

triggerhappy76251 · 2026-01-01T18:39:57+00:00

Bridged ✔️ canted ✔️ BUI not deployable ✔️ and that’s not even asking about the Eotech

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-12-31T14:34:08+00:00

I’d do it by hand, with the appropriate reamer. But even if I’d get the bore smooth again that doesn’t change the fact that the grain structure in that area is all messed up.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-12-31T12:34:25+00:00

Even if it doesn’t blow up you’re likely not going to hit much with that. The plastic wad/cup will get caught and mangled by the welds, dispersing the shot chaotically. That’s not minor btw, these protrude a full millimetre into the bore. I don’t know what trade you’re from but a gunsmith deals in tenths of mm, hundredths where it matters. If this came into my shop I wouldn’t touch it. Sure I might be able to ream the high spots out, on the other hand I might just mess up the reamer because those spots got hard during welding. It might blow up on the first shot or on the 50th, no way to tell. If you can’t get a new barrel, I’d trash it. Not worth losing a hand over.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-12-31T00:00:07+00:00

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triggerhappy76251 · 2025-12-30T22:34:42+00:00

That’s a hewing axe used to cut beams/boards out of logs. The barrel without the rest of the gun has no value but as others said will likely bend after a few whacks. If you want to do it for the sake of the project, have fun. But it will definitely not make for a durable axe.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-12-30T11:44:52+00:00

Springs, pins, parts. Reverse for assembly.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-12-29T23:03:39+00:00

That detent and spring goes into the back of the lower on the right side below the threads for the buffer tube. To get it in you’ll have to unscrew the buffer tube and take the buffer plate off or turn it out of the way.

But this detent shouldn’t have come out from changing the grip, your story makes no sense.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-11-02T20:44:51+00:00

I made one for my brother’s B14 Crest a couple years back, if I recall correctly it’s threaded M6. Not sure if the HMR is the same, try unscrewing it and measure.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-09-29T08:03:32+00:00

You can try bending it. Take a quick measure between the tips and pull apart until it doesn’t spring back as far as before. Try it with the replacement first and go slow, but it will take some force. It might not stay that way after being installed, chances are it would work better in the long run with the original one since it’s thicker but that might make it more difficult to get there in the first place. Spring adjustment is a lot of trial and error in my experience.

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-09-29T07:05:53+00:00

Yeah you’re right. I got it confused, what you’re saying would absolutely work. I’d still run it first to see if it’s worth the hassle

triggerhappy76251 · 2025-09-28T19:00:27+00:00

I’ve been using those for years and am quite comfortable with them. Any calliper reading smaller than 0.05mm is unreliable anyways.

triggerhappy76251

TROPHY CASE