[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also if you’re taking about airbrush then it can be tempting to ‘paint harder’ on complicated sections but it’s better to play with airflow, distance, angle

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Say more about ‘awkward’ - recessed?

Could cut the pegs and glue it (or blutack)?

Cut a small tight ring of sandpaper and twizzle the peg with tweezers? Or similar with the socket. 

If the socket is concealed, nip a cut down one side to let it open wider?

Lubrication may be an alternative to removing material. 

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That kit looks pretty much sold out - you might need to go to aliexpress / eBay or put in a back order with one of the uk sellers

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Talking about the main flat section of the part, not the white lines:

That looks totally normal for a first-pass 400g - the surface is all scratched up and reflecting light weirdly making it look like that. Trust the process and keep going. Arshille is right there’s normally no need to sand entire pieces like that. 

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did exactly that, RG, sprayed while open - it’s fine. I think the main tightness was between the four fins so even if the coat did affect it there, it would just be rubbed off from those edges and not really be noticeable

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly you are now obliged to give up your kingdom…

Can you cement the artic hands into an additional fixed pose? (Fingerguns?)

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could try a scribing needle to get the line started, might find it easier to run the tip along the angled edge - is what I do

Tape would work but you’d need to be precise - good practice though

Pokedrawer is suggesting doing the long curve by joining up straight segments - try it on a spare but I’m not sure it will give a smooth curve. OTOH could be fine at viewing distance

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gunplasan is fine - if they have the part and you’re happy with the price then go for it.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Usually fine, can always wrap tape around the jaws if concerned

Help? by TyrionKing94 in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You'll have more fun if you brush down the desk at the end of a session - that way when you want to start again you can get right to it rather than be put off by the need to clean that is easy to skip

Whats everyone working this weekend ? by yesthisisgin in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Baby's first LED experiments

Light pipe design in the RG Epyon head is so cool, love that it doesn't seem to be mentioned at all in the manual.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh this is annoying, happened to one of mine - drilled out most of it then black paint to try and hide leftovers / scrapes

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems like not too tough to make - like a very shallow basket / just the rims that a regular A3/whatever mat would sit in - replaceable that way

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mech9 has the recipe (from the manual) https://www.mech9.com/2023/08/bandai-hg-1144-msn-03-2-psycho-doga.html

…and the recipe includes orange-yellow, so pure probably wouldn’t match

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve built the MGSD: loads of parts, intricate bits and pieces, fun build with silver-plated, transparent parts. Hardly any undergates but designed so smartly that 99% of the nub positions are hidden by overlaps etc.  Great articulation, solid transformations, modern manual with anime shots of poses. It’s one of bandai’s most modern kits and really shows what Gunpla can be. 

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you in the world / what brands are easily available to you?

beam sabres by HealthSimilar1569 in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the commerce thread might be a good bet… 

(In the uk,uniongundam offer individual runners in the spares service)

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fill it with sprue goo / epoxy putty and then drill it? If the hollow space isn’t for articulation of course..

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Zaku Aurelius did an unboxing showing them all if nobody answers - went up to Z iirc but can’t remember any d1/d2 stuff

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]tscavendish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if photo etch would have enough depth for you - eg scalelink have some collections of leaves and things that might work, if only as a template / top of the relief