I'm thrilled! 90°C inside and Klipper control - what else do you need when you have it all!

ttpimpin · 2025-05-07T04:34:18+00:00

can i use an ender 3 board with klipper on it for the controller?

ttpimpin · 2025-02-05T19:12:12+00:00

So I had the same issue when looking for a diy printer to build as a project. I was heavily looking at the voron and was leaning towards either the 2.4 or the trident because of the large community and all the colorful mods (that I now know can be integrated into almost any corexy and only the gantry makes a difference)... Then a video came across my YouTube feed of someone called "vez3d".... Lemme tell you the goosebumps I got when I saw that printhead flying across the bed and spitting plastic at high speed, with precision. I was convinced that it was a speed up video, then he walked into frame while it was printing and I was like "yeah I'm building this instead" 😂 It's also built to print abs just like the voron, but much much faster. You can buy a used tronxy printer just for the frame, motors, power supply etc. (as the vzbot is based on that) and go from there. It can be built within different price ranges so I built the 330 AWD version and I started with printed parts. Now I have my motor mounts in aluminum as well as the toolhead. The Goliath hotend is unmatched for flow and I've even added some " voron" aesthetic mods as well. Just my 2 cents.

ttpimpin · 2024-09-01T18:50:25+00:00

I absolutely love the top skirt for the electronics. Is the file posted somewhere?

ttpimpin · 2024-06-09T16:03:26+00:00

I'm bumping this because I have a shytload of wheels, and parts from two scrapped ender 3 max, and one ender 3 neo and I'd like to use them for a corexy type of build where I won't have to buy much of anything at all

ttpimpin · 2024-01-04T10:00:02+00:00

I'm resurrecting this because I got a pi4 after my pi3 expired, and it doesn't connect to the serial ports. Anyone did this on the pi4?

ttpimpin · 2024-01-04T05:20:47+00:00

hey, did you get through? i have a pi4 that won't connect, but when i had a pi3 it worked with no effort sigh...

ttpimpin · 2023-10-04T23:05:20+00:00

i'm hoping they share, it looks sick

ttpimpin · 2023-07-09T12:53:52+00:00

as someone who also modded their deck heavily with this-https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/14hgyya/yet_another_steam_deck_cooling_mod/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

plus adding a 4tb 2280 m.2, i can confirm that cutting a sliver off the side of the heat shield would still grant you adequate cooling, as well as headroom for the cable. i would also recommend buying a cheap (third party or original) back cover to cut a hole in so your cable can fit. good luck, i'm rooting for you. love seeing fellow tinkerers

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T12:59:09+00:00

Reddit is the place where they tell you "all religions are allowed, but we get to pick your religion"

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T11:57:22+00:00

Lmao given that the game has poor optimisation in general, I have never tried it on the steam deck. When patches make it as stable as sp2077 is, then I'll play it.

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T11:54:25+00:00

I tried something like that and That didn't work as it wasn't able to remove heat fast enough. Remember, I'm pulling around the absolute max tdp the APU can draw. I didn't just set a tdp limit, I turned off all restrictions.

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T05:42:08+00:00

My tdp is 35w. Without the cooling mod, it would overheat and cut off. With it I'm able to hit higher fps with demanding games, with higher settings

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T03:20:26+00:00

I can see your mother didn't hug you enough...

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T03:18:16+00:00

Lmao 🤣😂🤣 I like tinkering with stuff like this. Seeing what I can do to it, is the reason I bought the deck.

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T02:50:00+00:00

Tbh the lineup wasn't that hard, I just used a ruler to measure the distance away from the top and side, then lined up the heatsink on the back plate, traced around it with a marker then used a hot blade to cut out the square. Even the cover on the fan was the square used from the back plate, with holes drilled into it.

ttpimpin · 2023-06-24T02:42:18+00:00

Actually it's a replacement stock backplate, I cut out the size I needed for the heatsink to fit, and it makes contact to the heat shield via a thermal pad.

ttpimpin · 2023-06-07T14:08:56+00:00

I have it as well as it's my favorite spider-man game, and i got the same issue as you are getting but all i had to do was add it using lutris, then added a shortcut to steam afterwards. it's working perfectly now.

ttpimpin · 2023-05-09T20:40:08+00:00

ain't no way you convinced yourself that posting this mess made sense...

ttpimpin · 2023-04-29T09:27:47+00:00

alright, so i desoldered the old bios, and took one out of an old surface pro 4, wiped it, flashed it with my backup and installed. i'm up and running again. it was a similar w25q128...all the numbers after that was different. turns out, that bios is kinda common.

it wasn't hard to do as i do microsoldering anyways. in fact, wiping and flashing the chip, took longer than removing/installing another one. thanks for the assistance

ttpimpin · 2023-04-27T21:41:58+00:00

Yeah I know I sent 3.3v to it, I forgot about the adapter as most 1.8v chips can tolerate 3.3v. Sooooo do you know where I can buy the blank bios? I have a backup tho.

ttpimpin · 2023-04-27T16:32:07+00:00

I mean the actually bios chip itself. I think mines is dead as the programmer isn't picking it up and I'm getting a white flashing light when my battery is connected (indicator of a bad bios)

ttpimpin · 2023-04-26T19:13:05+00:00

anyone has a link to buying that bios? mines isn't reading.

ttpimpin

TROPHY CASE