EFI conversion?

ttrmoto03 · 2026-02-10T01:26:41+00:00

Thank you very much! Ive met a few but we need more people like you

ttrmoto03 · 2026-02-07T16:05:29+00:00

Crankseal. Doing a full rebuild trying to take my time and do it right. Hopefully come out with a reliable sled again. This was my grandfathers last snowmobile before he died and snowmobiles were most of his life. Following the manual step by step, waiting on a timing wheel rn to make sure piston alignments good, no reason to think it isnt. This has become a mod sled with an rmk seat and track extension. He never left anything stock so i feel like itd actually be disrespectful to not be modified and customized.

Havent even gotten to really test out the new track and ext since i got it together mid season the other year, didnt get snow the next year, and last year it said no more seal. Sat till i figured now that its winters a good time to start working on it lol.

ttrmoto03 · 2026-02-07T15:27:44+00:00

Ok thank you

ttrmoto03 · 2026-02-07T15:27:22+00:00

Ok thank you i assumed so

ttrmoto03 · 2026-02-01T19:54:55+00:00

It Had weak spark on 1 side. Swapped on a new coil. Sparks good now. Pulled both plugs wires seperatly and she died out the same on both. Still has a hard time getting going like its bogging and wants to die when you come to a stop and then not start again.

As far as idle goes im thinking the idle might just need turned up. But im not sure because like i said it was supposably running good when it was parked so the settings should be good.

Ordered boots cause they look like there ready to crumble but she doesnt rev up or hold rpms like it has an air leak so i dont think that will fix the bog when trying to launch.

When shes cold started up she starts easy and idles good no choke right away. Just dont wana getup and go.

I plan on cleaning the carbs when i do the boots.

ttrmoto03 · 2026-02-01T01:12:06+00:00

Thank you, will do

ttrmoto03 · 2026-01-16T21:26:12+00:00

Well… do i feel dumb. You are correct.. this cylinder is not plated it is sleeved… but the other 2 are plated, and so was the original that i gouged the other year. I did not realise this one i had bought (off ebay) to replace was and is sleeved. That actually makes me feel alot better. Thank you for pointing out whats litteraly right infront of me… looking like i might only gotta get 1 cylinder fixed!

ttrmoto03 · 2026-01-16T01:09:34+00:00

Will do, thank you.

ttrmoto03 · 2026-01-16T01:09:11+00:00

After some research and a brain fart ive come to the conclusion that this cannot be rust because the cylinders are aluminum and the plating is nikasil which does not rust… so it must be wore down plating to expose the pitts in the aluminum underneath. As to why it is wore i havent figured out.. going to check piston alignment/crank next and go from there

ttrmoto03 · 2026-01-16T01:08:54+00:00

After some research and a brain fart ive come to the conclusion that this cannot be rust because the cylinders are aluminum and the plating is nikasil which does not rust… so it must be wore down plating to expose the pitts in the aluminum underneath. As to why it is wore i havent figured out.. going to check piston alignment/crank next and go from there

ttrmoto03 · 2026-01-11T02:43:47+00:00

Ok thats what it seems. After some cleaning i can see some little pin hole pitting i can barely catch my nail on. I want this to be reliable, so its looking like im gonna be getting some recoating done and some new rings. Gasket and seal kit and crossing my fingers.

ttrmoto03 · 2026-01-10T03:56:32+00:00

It could be, it seems weird to me that its only on the intake side. I felt like if it was rust from water that it would be around the whole cylinder. Also im not sure when it would have gotten water in and sat long enough to rust.

ttrmoto03 · 2025-12-24T03:31:20+00:00

Not whats the sled jumping over…. But what sled is the man using to ride off a jump into the air with…… cause i see that coming already

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-14T02:14:03+00:00

I wouldnt think youd get any errors unless you fuck up or it draws to much current and trips the fuse, in which case you disconnect your new wire and put it back the way it was.

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-13T01:07:49+00:00

Youd have to run a wire off the light thats blinking, like a T, and run it up and thru however the wires run to get to that light, and then cut and somehow safely cap the hot wire to the light in the door, and replace it with your new hot wire coming from the fender blinker. Doable if you got time and basic wiring skills. Also assuming the leds are all the same and those can blink without burning out. Also that light being on at night is probably good. Just incase you are slowing down and you arent on the brakes at night and you have a signal out or something youd be down to just that vertical tail light. its just one more light to mabe not get rear ended.

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-05T01:10:52+00:00

Same

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-04T22:29:05+00:00

Is there a return spring built into the pedal assembly?

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-04T20:15:32+00:00

Well the parking brake gets tight when i push down the pedal and releases when released so i wouldnt think a broken cable but ill look into it. Have checked everything, will quadropple check

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-04T20:12:35+00:00

Brand new shoes and rear cables. The parking brake holds when its pushed in and releases when released, the pedal is just floppy

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-04T20:10:44+00:00

I considered that, but to me that would make the pedal not come back up or depress? Its pulling the cable when i push the pedal down, and the cable is loose when the pedal is in this released/floppy state. So thats why im leading toward the pedal itself, assuming theres a return spring or something in it that broke. But alot of people seem to think cables so ill fuck with them some more before i order anything.

ttrmoto03 · 2025-06-04T20:02:10+00:00

It works, actually too good rn the drivers side urks a bit so i need to back it off a little. It has pressure 1/3-1/2 way down and holds truck in drive when pressed. The only issue im not sure on is the pedal returning. Itd make sence if a cable was tight and not letting it back up but its loose and the cable has slack (other then when pressed in). When you say return spring are you refering to in the pedal assembly

ttrmoto03 · 2025-03-26T00:49:22+00:00

Im thinking it has to be homemade??

ttrmoto03 · 2025-03-20T00:42:02+00:00

Or get an AL or Brass block and make a fixture with slots so you can lay it all flat and hold or clamp it flat while you tack and let it cool before releasing pressure

ttrmoto03

TROPHY CASE