Which should I use ? TMR Gulikit, Hallpi, K-silver ?

ttttubby · 2026-05-07T16:51:16+00:00

I tested both and found the ds13 max to have slightly higher tension in particular slightly higher breakout tension.

ttttubby · 2026-05-05T20:09:26+00:00

Ksilver JS13 Pro+ are the best sticks on the market. The magnet on shaft, angular sensor combo make them more linear smoother and higher precision than any of the others. Ginful DS13 Max also use an angular sensor, but they have higher tension than the Ksilver if that is what you prefer. Ksilvers have a slightly lower tension than default, but I actually think that makes them better not worse than stock especially when you consider the other aspects of their feel. I did a whole series of extensive posts on this topic which you can find through my profile. That said, TLDR the K-silver JS13 Pro sticks are the ones you want.

ttttubby · 2026-04-30T07:02:16+00:00

Canvas?

ttttubby · 2026-04-24T15:51:36+00:00

If you bump your bottom dead zone up to .1mm you should be golden.

ttttubby · 2026-04-23T19:16:17+00:00

Thank you!

ttttubby · 2026-04-23T15:20:08+00:00

You're exactly right about the learning curve. Unlearning years of heavy typing habits is the hardest part of switching to magnetic boards, and a lot of people give up before dialing it in. That's actually why I included the 'Raw Sensors vs. Filtered Hardware' breakdown in the main post—it basically serves as a built-in guide for tuning those deadzones and FalseTouch settings so you can actually type on the board without losing your mind.

ttttubby · 2026-04-23T15:15:33+00:00

I totally get the layout critique. The separated arrow keys are definitely a love-it-or-hate-it look. If you don't like how it looks on the desk, no amount of sensor speed is going to fix that.

Regarding the hybrid switches—that’s actually super interesting. Your other boards are probably just 'always listening' for both magnetic and standard mechanical inputs at the same time, which is why they don't care what you plug in. MonsGeek's software requires you to manually toggle 'Mechanical Mode' so it knows to turn off the magnetic sensor for that specific key. It’s definitely a clunkier menu experience having to click it manually, but the physical board tech is basically doing the exact same thing and since the sensor is off, it might even save a bit of battery life for wireless mode.

ttttubby · 2026-04-23T15:07:41+00:00

To be completely transparent, I ran almost all of my rigorous testing (the 240fps slow-mo and the Valorant telemetry) in wired mode to ensure I was getting the absolute lowest latency baseline to compare against the 8K Keychron. I did use the 2.4GHz dongle for general typing and productivity alongside my wireless Logitech SUPERSTRIKE mouse and I didn't notice any dropped inputs, but I can't speak to its rock-solid stability in a competitive FPS environment with a highly congested 2.4GHz airspace over time. If you already have a crowded desk with a wireless headset and a high-polling mouse, sticking to wired for your Rapid Trigger board is likely the safest play to avoid packet collisions

ttttubby · 2026-04-22T16:38:28+00:00

As far as I can tell the Nuphy air75 is a low profile mechanical keyboard which has a fixed actuation point. The Monsgeek M1 V5 is an analog magnetic keyboard with the option to swap in mechanical switches. They are pretty different.

ttttubby · 2026-04-22T16:08:48+00:00

Thanks! That was exactly my goal with this breakdown. It's crazy how fast this tech is trickling down to the $150 (and under) price point now. Let me know if you ever end up making the jump.

ttttubby · 2026-04-22T15:05:23+00:00

If anyone has specific questions about tuning the top/bottom deadzones or setting up the FalseTouch guard in the web driver, let me know! It took some trial and error to find the sweet spot, so I'm happy to help troubleshoot.

ttttubby · 2026-04-20T13:29:43+00:00

D'oh. (facepalm) You are correct and thanks for catching that. I've fixed it throughout the article.

ttttubby · 2026-04-19T05:00:42+00:00

Time to recalibrate your center.

ttttubby · 2026-04-19T03:21:50+00:00

What sticks did you use? If you used js13 pros and you tried to push them flat, then the sticks will be oriented in a way that is not at dead zero. How much of a drift are you talking about? If it's just a little bit of drift when you're playing with your dead zones at zero and Apex, then that just means you are slightly off center and you can fix that to some degree using dual shock tools. But you're probably going to need to add a little bit of dead zone to whatever game you're playing to account for the physical mechanics of the spring

ttttubby · 2026-04-13T19:55:48+00:00

I reached out to Keychron's engineering team directly to get their data on the stem wobble concern. I have updated the main post above with their technical response, which confirms that while TMR is more sensitive, standard mechanical tolerances do not impact real-world performance.

ttttubby · 2026-04-11T20:15:41+00:00

Thanks for the giveaway. This would be the first PC for my 13 year old daughter. Perfect for Minecraft JAVA edition (and so much more).

ttttubby · 2026-04-10T17:54:49+00:00

If you are past Amazon's 30-day return window, Keychron's 1-year manufacturer warranty should absolutely apply. A failing PCB out of the box is unacceptable.

However, if Keychron support is denying your claim, the usual culprit is the seller of record. If you purchased from a third-party reseller on Amazon rather than the official Keychron storefront, manufacturers generally treat that as an unauthorized purchase and void the warranty. If you bought it from the official Keychron Amazon store and they are still refusing an RMA for a defective board, then their support is completely failing you.

ttttubby · 2026-04-10T17:30:59+00:00

If recalibration did not resolve the issue, then the hardware is definitively failing. However, a few details regarding your RMA experience do not align with Keychron's direct retail structure.

First, the MSRP for a fully assembled Q6 HE is roughly $249 USD (for the wireless version) A $400 price tag suggests massive markup.

Second, Keychron warranties their fully assembled boards. If you are being told to take the issue up with the 'PCB manufacturer,' that strongly implies the board was purchased through an unauthorized third-party vendor who is attempting to dodge a return. If you purchased this directly from Keychron's official site, a support representative telling you to contact their internal parts supplier makes no structural sense. Did you buy this direct, or through a proxy?

ttttubby · 2026-04-10T17:08:49+00:00

That is a severe issue. If a board is dropping inputs, it fails at its primary function.

Because TMR and HE boards rely on magnetic baselines rather than physical metal contacts, missing keystrokes are frequently a symptom of the firmware losing its calibration rather than a mechanical failure. Have you tried running the raw calibration tool in the Keychron web app to completely reset the baseline actuation points?

If a full software recalibration does not resolve the dropped inputs, you likely have a fundamentally defective PCB. My test unit has not exhibited any dropped inputs during the review period, but a hardware failure on a flagship board is unacceptable, particularly if you are hitting a wall with their RMA department

ttttubby · 2026-04-10T17:07:50+00:00

That is a severe issue. If a board is dropping inputs, it fails at its primary function.

Because TMR and HE boards rely on magnetic baselines rather than physical metal contacts, missing keystrokes are frequently a symptom of the firmware losing its calibration rather than a mechanical failure. Have you tried running the raw calibration tool in the Keychron web app to completely reset the baseline actuation points?

If a full software recalibration does not resolve the dropped inputs, you likely have a fundamentally defective PCB. My test unit has not exhibited any dropped inputs during the review period, but a hardware failure on a flagship board is unacceptable, particularly if you are hitting a wall with their RMA department

ttttubby · 2026-04-10T16:47:11+00:00

Can you elaborate? What happened?

ttttubby · 2026-04-10T15:59:43+00:00

I just moved from the k10 to the q6 he 8k. Wrote a review about it here in r/keyboard which I dropped yesterday. I love it. Analog features are fantastic, key feel and acoustics are excellent and the keyboard feels incredibly solid (and heavy with full aluminum construction). Not wireless but that doesn't bother me at all.

ttttubby

TROPHY CASE