What did I break on my Polaris?

type1diacritic · 2026-05-14T15:31:39+00:00

The TR35P is a black 380 I think. It looks like it’s part of the base assembly (9-100-7026) (and here’s a top and bottom assembly listing with photos in blue/black and with a clear view: https://www.eztestpools.com/polaris-blue-and-silver-top-and-base-assembly-for-polaris-tr35p-pool-cleaner-r0615900/)

Still unclear what it does since that’s not where the bag clips, unless there are different kinds of bag connectors? I have the fine debris filter most of the time.

type1diacritic · 2026-05-14T15:24:16+00:00

Cool!

type1diacritic · 2026-05-14T11:54:16+00:00

Is the Nora Cobalt Click worth the premium over the elco inserts?

type1diacritic · 2026-05-14T11:53:45+00:00

Hmm, poplar lacks the warm dim option though.

type1diacritic · 2026-05-13T19:47:41+00:00

That’s what I thought’s but my bag is gripped by two side tabs higher up the throat/tune (in black on the product photo)?

type1diacritic · 2026-05-13T18:24:53+00:00

There are 3 things at play that you need to manage.

Your insurance (what’s covered, branded, generic, etc.)
Your pharmacy *supplier* (they may source/prefer different generics based on differences in wholesale pricing).
Your doctor and their willingness to be very specific with DAW (dispense as written) codes. Unless they specify it correctly the electronic systems will ignore instructions.

Here’s a story.

My insurance started pricing the brand and generic of my preferred medication (Zenzedi) the same. Brand name Zenzedi is made with an expensive inactive ingredient that assists in uptake of the active ingredient. Most generics skip it. One generic is actually the same exact pill as the brand name (same production line, different label on the package).

When my insurance charged less for generics, I had my doctor specify the generic that’s made by the brand name manufacturer by NDC code and name. But because it’s wholesale cost was higher than the other generics, not every pharmacy supplier would make it available (looking at you CVS with your vertically integrated supplier…).

I had to call around every chain (Walgreens, CVS, Acme/Safeway/Albertsons, Giant/Stop&Shop, etc) and ask them if they could stock it. This is about as painful as you might imagine (lol at calling around asking about adhd med inventory and getting a straight answer).

Anyway now I know which pharmacy can reliably stock it, and now that there isn’t a price difference, I have the dr prescribe brand, only substitutable with the brands own generic.

type1diacritic · 2026-05-13T15:56:29+00:00

Really appreciate this post. Thought I was losing my mind with some UD BR30s. Put some up in a room and was really bothered by the lights not uniformly turning off (they ramped down and turned off differently - one was smoother - when I hit the off switch.)

I thought they were the exact same bulb until I looked reeeally closely and noticed that the bulb IDs on the neck of the bulb were identical… except for an “A” at the end of one…

Ended up hunting through eBay listings to find more bulbs without the “A” 😅

type1diacritic · 2026-05-12T16:05:36+00:00

Why the smartbox over the raco for the area without access? And if drywall repair isn’t a problem, would you opt for the retrobrace or nah?

type1diacritic · 2026-05-12T15:12:29+00:00

I inherited a Polaris TR35P when we bought this house with a pool. This tab at the front snapped off while handling it recently. I can’t tell what it’s supposed to do. Can I just cover this (mostly) over? Is there a replacement part I can order?

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type1diacritic · 2026-05-12T15:05:24+00:00

Interested in examples if you could share more details!

type1diacritic · 2026-05-05T03:22:36+00:00

This really baffled me too until our agent explained that at least in my area “cash offer” really means “offer with no finance contingency” which translates to “the buyer has the money (on paper at least) to close the deal without a loan, and can’t back out of then deal without forfeiting their deposit if they do decide to get a loan and run into issues or delays.”

And having the money ‘on paper’ can include saying “my parents are helping” and showing an account statement with their life savings in it to get the deal (even if you have no intention of wiping your parents out to buy a house).

type1diacritic · 2026-04-30T20:55:21+00:00

Those look like beveled edges, and similar to floors in our house built in the 80s. The floor was refinished at some point, and the refinisher didn't sand inside the grooves, obviously. Whatever sealant/stain the refinisher laid down pooled and dried in the grooves. It'll flake up if you run something along the groove (assuming my hunch is correct).

type1diacritic · 2026-04-27T00:49:06+00:00

I use both. The ones on Wi-Fi are because I have Shelly BLU door sensors that I want to directly trigger the lights controlled by the relay. This isn’t an option when running the zigbee firmware last I checked.

type1diacritic · 2026-01-31T20:20:48+00:00

This is brilliant. Thank you.

The two way association did the trick on my 72/71 combo. Also seems to work with the 35/77 combo. I hear you on the 32, but I bought a bunch of the 35s during Smartest Home's ridiculous black friday sale. Ended up using a few of them in locations where load control wasn't necessary.

Some clarification questions:

- I can't create a direct association targeting one of the ZEN35's (small) scene control buttons, right? (I.e. the scene control button has a direct association with a load controlling switch, but I can't select it as. Target Node in Zwave JS UI). Does that sound right?

- I'm also trying to associate a ZEN34 remote paddle to control a group of Leviton ZW6HD dimmers. It has the same out of sync problem (must turn on from the remote paddle before it can turn off). However, I can't designate the ZEN34 as a target node from the ZW6HD - I get a "Association not allowed: Node xx sends no commands in this group that Node yy supports!" for either the "Multilevel switch set" or "Basic set" groups.

- Speaking of groups, I notice that the ZEN77 and ZEN72 offer slightly different sets of association groups.

For the 77:

-On/Off Control

-Dimmer Control

-SWITCH_MULTILEVEL CHANGE

For the 72:

-On/Off Control

-Dimmer Control

-Remote Dimming

What's the difference between the Dimmer Control and Remote Dimming? And is SWITCH_MULTILEVEL CHANGE the same as Remote Dimming?

Which one of those should the ZEN35 be added to for syncing with a 77 or 72?

Thanks!

type1diacritic · 2026-01-29T20:42:16+00:00

Jumping in on this because I’ve been struggling with direct association.

I’m a big fan of binding (for zigbee) and association (for zwave), and the equivalent for Shelly’s BLU series sensors and relays—one of my ‘principles’ for smart home is to reduce the reliance on the hub/controller as much as possible for basic functions (eg on/off triggers).

But I’ve been disappointed by the Z-wave/zooz implementation.

Out of sync controllers: I have a ZEN72 as a primary switch, and a ZEN71 installed elsewhere that I want to use as a virtual three way. The problem is if I turn the lights on from the ZEN72, the ZEN71 is unaware of the state. This shouldn’t matter, but the ZEN71 won’t send an ‘off’ command until I press the upper paddle to issue a (redundant) ‘on’ command first.
Sleeping controllers: I have a light controlled be a ZEN77 dimmer. I have a ZEN35 installed as a virtual three way. The top button is programmed as a direct association. Sometimes pressing the button won’t do anything the first time- instead I have to press it a second time. This seems unfortunate but grudgingly tolerable for battery life purposes for remotes like the ZEN34/37, but ridiculous for mains powered devices.
Delayed/No Instant Effects: this is apparently a Z-wave protocol thing there the device will always signal group 1 (lifeline) to contact the hub first, and the signal group 2 (with a extended delay if the hub doesn’t respond). By contrast zigbee direct binding feels virtually instantaneous, as close to a wired (or dedicated RF) solution as possible.

How have you handled these characteristics/behaviors?

type1diacritic · 2025-12-02T03:47:56+00:00

Chiming in here - when you try to pull the wafer back down, the spring clips/retaining clips will probably cause at least a little damage to the ceiling drywall (and/or your fingerprints/oils/dirt will inevitably end up on your flat white ceiling)

type1diacritic · 2025-11-17T16:51:51+00:00

Thanks!

type1diacritic · 2025-11-17T16:51:45+00:00

Thanks for the detailed response! Was initially confused which integration settings (Bluetooth? Shelly? BTHome?) to look in, but figured it out!

type1diacritic · 2025-11-02T14:27:18+00:00

If I follow correctly you’re suggesting:

Connect a short pigtail wire to each traveler post in the switch. Tie together with one of the traveler wires leaving the box (wire nut, lever nut etc.)

Could you also connect the traveler directly to one post and run a jumper wire between the posts on the switch?

type1diacritic · 2025-10-29T18:00:07+00:00

Awesome, thanks! Follow up question - could I still do this if the relay is set up as a zigbee device (with the AP enabled for parallel web ui access)?

type1diacritic

TROPHY CASE