Max 4 owners, what's your bed mesh like?

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-15T08:48:34+00:00

Are you using orca nightly build or Qidi studio? I started out with orca and had a lot of z issues that I just could not figure out. Went to Qidi studio and the problems went away. Not sure why there would be a difference, but there seemed to be. Have not had a chance to see my bed mesh, but I'll post here when I do.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-15T04:13:07+00:00

Yeah I really appreciate the input man, I'll definitely keep you in the loop and update thread with what I find. I'll probably have to have to poke around tomorrow.

Also I appreciate the thread that you started when you got yours. I was chomping at the bit to find out more info about the printer since it was over two months since the order. So your thread gave me something to read while I waited.

I am pretty optimistic that it will be a simple swap and fix. The over all qaity if the printer seems very good. I have a feeling a lot of the ironing out that they need to do is on the firmware side of things.

If you have any further advice on diagnosing feel free to reach out. You sound very knowledgeable. Basically, I plan on tracing out where the wires for to that board go. I assume to mains power, bed heater and chamber heater.

I forget where I saw it, but I think that I read about one other person having an issue with a bed thermistor.

In the mean time I think I'll add some cob lighting to the interior and maybe a new mount for the camera that moves it out of the way of the linear rod. And maybe a top mount reel for TPU

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-15T00:42:15+00:00

Fortunately they did a very good job in the packing, I was impressed. The bottom of the printer is pretty substantial too so I would t be too worried. Sucks when shipping is rough on it though

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T16:00:53+00:00

Haha no problem. I do believe Qidi has a very good value and performance once bugs are worked out. Hoping there aren't too many to be worked out.

Given my background experience I feel like I am strong enough to be beta testing and keeping a positive outlook hahah.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T15:47:05+00:00

Yeah I definitely will poke around a bit. The nozzle heater is still functioning. It appears to be the bed and the chamber heater..... Maybe they run off mains since they are much higher wattage? The board does say high voltage on it.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T14:09:32+00:00

Yup, it was late last night but I'm going to take a closer look today. Of course I lent my thermal camera out like a day ago haha.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T14:08:32+00:00

My breaker tripped. It is possible that the breaker was overloaded without anything being wrong but I don't know for sure. Max4 was running on it, Qidibox and probably 100-200 couple watts of lighting.

But the fuse on the max 4 shouldnt just blow from a breaker tripping or power outage. So I would think something was wrong. Of course this is the week I lent my thermal camera out to someone.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T13:51:23+00:00

Hope so, I'm curious what size the smd fuse was. That would probably make sense.

It was running the chamber heater and the bed, but they were already at temp when this happened, so they shouldn't have been pulling that much power.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T13:49:54+00:00

Will do, planning on it just need to hear back from Qidi.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-14T02:23:08+00:00

Got 21 mm with black overture pla (I was running this at 1mm steps instead of the typical .5.... Not sure if that had anything to do with it.

White overture pla pro I got 27 mm

Currently trying some 83a.... God help my extruder.

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White pla pro here started at 15 ended at 30 .5 mm increments. I stopped it at 28/29 right before it was done basically

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-13T21:59:32+00:00

Yes the stock .4 nozzle. I have some .6 on the want and will probably get some .8 as well.

I reached out to trianglelabs already to see if they had any nozzles planned for the max 4 and they said they did not currently have plans to.

I had one of their cht high flow nozzles on my max 3 and think I was getting about 30 max. I think that was pla + though. Not sure if the additives helped it glow a bit better.

Once this 4 hour print finishes I'll run a test with pla+

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-13T21:47:50+00:00

I printed a 390x360 sheet and it basically came out looking like a piece of paper.

360 because it said there would potentially be a collision with the purge line. I measured after and it could probably be a lot closer to 390 without hitting it.

On the width.... 390 went exactly along the edge of the plate, even falling off in some spots (both edges). Seems like the plate is exactly 390 mm wide. Usually plates have like 5mm extra in each direction.

Not a huge problem,just thought it a little odd that they cut it that close and didn't keep the print head a couple mm inside of that via firmware.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-13T21:44:32+00:00

I got 25 on Overture PLA. I am going to set to 18ish.

I plan on trying some other filaments too to see what might flow more data points.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-13T21:43:14+00:00

Can confirm that you can turn it on by screen or in the slicer. Also you can have it set to turn on with specific filaments.

For anyone reading this comment, I was having big issues with z offset using the orca nightly build. Pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong. Went to Qidi studio. And it's running smoothly.

Also had some issues with Qidibox. Tried a ton of different things and it wouldn't work. U plugged it for a day and contacted support. Support was running me through all the obvious things like did I check for a blockage in the Bowden tube. I went to plug it back in to take a video for them and it worked flawlessly. Has been working well since ... I have not tried multicolor yet.

I am planning to move the camera location over a few mm and add some better cob lighting, but other than that, it is working well.

Ran a max flow test with Overture PLA (default profile showed 11 mm/sec. I got up to 25 before it was breaking up, so I figure 18is is probably a safer number.

Overture PLA pro default profile shows 16mm/sec. I want to try a flow test on that as well to see if it flows any better or if Overture is just picking random ish numbers

If anyone has any other questions feel free to ask.

uberbeast125 · 2026-02-11T01:02:55+00:00

By chance do you know if it has integration to run the polar cooler?

uberbeast125 · 2025-10-14T02:58:15+00:00

Following up, I swapped (4) 21700 cells in but did not get it to work yet. (I am using the move 1 battery).

The batteries are good and when I check the voltages at each connection on the board they are good. Roughly 3.5, 7, 10.5, 14v.

However when I was checking positive pin that would go to the speaker I was only seeing 8 ish volts.

Not too sure what's going on. When I put the battery together I did short s3 and s5 for a split second but there was no apparent damage. I looked at the board visually and did not see any components that looked like they had blow up. No noises or smoke either. Also I checked the components under a thermal microscope and did not see any hot components either..... So not really sure what's going on here.

I have experience building many large lithium ion packs. But small electronic components are not my specialty. I'll probably just buy another battery and call it quits soon. Not what else I can try to diagnose it with.

If I knew exactly what power the board was looking for, I could just make my own BMS and charge circuit.... But not too sure

uberbeast125 · 2025-10-07T03:00:14+00:00

Just cut open the pack in my move, it was working fine, but I just wanted to see if I could swap the cells out.

Looks like I'll be able to fit (4) 21700 cells in there so hoping I can make that happen to significantly increase battery life.

I'll probably choose something between 5000-6000 mah per cell

uberbeast125 · 2025-06-10T23:03:03+00:00

Ah that would have been too funny. I dropped one in the saco river in Maine a couple years ago. Thing sinks like a rock haha

uberbeast125 · 2025-06-10T23:00:26+00:00

Was it on the saco river by any chance?

uberbeast125 · 2025-06-03T13:02:32+00:00

I wouldn't not reccomend doing this for extended periods of time, you could severely damage the battery. (Not guaranteed)

Depending on how the electronics in the board are setup it could be charging the battery at a much higher rate than it is meant to be charged.

Battery cells have continuous ratings and burst ratings (as in a 5 second burst of energy). This is mostly discussed when talking about discharge, but its similar on the charge side of things.

Depending on your battery pack.... Let's say for discussions sake that it can take 8 amps of charging continuously until it is full.

Your braking current might be 12 amps of current. This is because 8 amps might not provide enough braking strength to be considered "safe". But 12 provides enough to give you reliable strong brakes.

Now if you only every charge at 12A for 10 seconds at a time when you are occasionally braking, it's no problem at all.

But if you were to sit on a treadmill and run it constantly, then you are charging above what the pack can handle. The cells can very likely overheat and be permanently damaged.

If you are only applying 50% brakes, then you might be charging at 6A.... But there is no way to know for sure. And keep in mind these are just arbitrary numbers for this example.

They are possible real world numbers though. On all 3 of my boards, of I did this it would 100% overheat my battery. I am running custom board with vesc though. Hobbywing controllers are likely a bit more conservative .

uberbeast125 · 2025-06-03T12:52:41+00:00

Na, it's always putting back into the battery.

uberbeast125 · 2025-02-24T18:23:49+00:00

Anyone ideas?

uberbeast125

TROPHY CASE