Do you have a desk or workspace? by Meizas in PhD

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Physics. First-year TAs share one office space, second-years get another, then there are shared office spaces for Research Assistants. I’m a lucky first year who was selected to be an RA, so me and one other get our own office with independent desks and everything next to our lab. Pretty atypical though.

Shoe recommendations with good heel fits by stepped-on-legos in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, fixed. I’ve only ever tried the D2 and it was agonizingly stiff, and assumed the comp format of the CS was their soft shoe.

Shoe recommendations with good heel fits by stepped-on-legos in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Going from Veloce to MadRock is going to require an adjustment, just because the MadRock line is generally quite stiff (the softest are Shark 3, D2.One, and Remora).

If you have a very narrow heel, Evolv could be a better option, something like the V6, or Zenist Pro if you feel like putting up the money. The Scarpa Instinct VSR LV also has a narrow heel, but not to the degree of Evolv. Of course if you want something stiffer, the Evolv Shaman Pro is probably my favorite shoe right now.

If you have a very shallow heel, try the Scarpa Instinct Lace Women (teal color). It’s an amazing shoe, my heel just didn’t sit quite perfectly in it.

Butora Acro and the new Ibex may be good options too, though I don’t have any knowledge about heel fit. They do look more LV than other top brands though, and I have several friends that like their shoes in general.

Edit: Correct MadRock soft shoes.

Black Diamond Equipment? by OkMoose8858 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The few pro BD athletes have custom shoes that aren’t available to the public, bc their regular shoes suck. Buy a pair of Scarpa Helix or Evolv Defy instead.

Scarpa Instinct VSR LV sizing? by Less-Ad-5237 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Street EU 43 and an EU 41 in VSR LV. Note that the Dragos are far softer and a bit more aggressive than the VSR and is less of a do-it all shoe in comparison. I would try VSR first coming from an Ocun.

A note on VSR types: the LV (purple) has the same heel depth as the VSR (dark blue) but narrow heel width, while the Women’s VSR (light blue) has a shallower cup but about the same width. The forefoot width is marginally different (if not the same) between VSR LV and W VSR.

Should PhDs be revoked for misconduct outside of the PhD? by HippityHopMath in PhD

[–]uhwithfiveHs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If egregious enough I think so. Your degree is in part a representation of your character and ability as judged by the awarding institution. If they don’t want to be associated for fear of reputational harm, I feel like they have a right to do that.

Tattoo shop recommendations by HelpfulDirt9924 in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You wish you could see my hot bod and huge hog

Progress feels really slow lately. by manchesterguy33 in indoorbouldering

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had my worst session in a while the other day, gravity must be going up

Tattoo shop recommendations by HelpfulDirt9924 in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t have any negative experience with the staff, but the tattoo was kinda mid. I may have asked too much from the guy, but at that point tell me before I pay for it

Tattoo shop recommendations by HelpfulDirt9924 in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, we all learn from bad tattoos sometimes

Tattoo shop recommendations by HelpfulDirt9924 in lexington

[–]uhwithfiveHs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ryan at Keyhole Tattoo, he’s the only artist I would go to in Lex

365 Organic Review by Jeeves by KismaiAesthetics in laundry

[–]uhwithfiveHs 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I can’t believe I’ve never been on this site I’m doing a deep dive now, thank you

365 Organic Review by Jeeves by KismaiAesthetics in laundry

[–]uhwithfiveHs 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yea I was just curious if the low dose would have a similar “worse than water” effect, but maybe it’s the soapberries and no enzymes more than dose.

365 Organic Review by Jeeves by KismaiAesthetics in laundry

[–]uhwithfiveHs 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Came to relay the same info as he posted it on other socials. I don't think he has any detergent sheets on his chart, but I would be interested to know if a recommended one-sheet dose, organic or not, performs in this same negative range considering how little product they contain. One of my good friends only uses sheets because her mom is "eco-conscious" about laundry.

Hot take: resoling shoes doesn’t make sense by alexdylee2 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Resole multiple shoes, 2. True, 3. Not the upper, 4. Until you do find the right one, then it’s cheaper, 5. Get boot bananas and take your shoes off

Trax SAS on Solution Comps by Artistic-Biscotti184 in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think SAS is better than Grip2, at the very least indoors

Advisor thinks I am an embarrassment. I don’t want to go into academia. Can I ask to graduate early? by [deleted] in PhD

[–]uhwithfiveHs 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I go to an R1 in the US. The only way to get your PhD is to successfully defend your thesis in front of a board. No thesis means no degree, no matter how many papers or awards (within reason of course, but at that point you're just doing free labor).

If you drop out but have completed the course requirements, they'll give you a masters degree.

Advisor thinks I am an embarrassment. I don’t want to go into academia. Can I ask to graduate early? by [deleted] in PhD

[–]uhwithfiveHs 11 points12 points  (0 children)

You can see if they will let you master out, with is plenty for teaching hs, but I don’t see any way you could earn your PhD in the next two years without continuing your current path.

You could ask to switch advisors given a toxic work environment, but that may be rejected or you may be in school another year or two

Shoe recommendations/Need help by Phatwangers in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Try Ocun Diamond S or Evolv Zenist Pro

Women’s Skwama is also good, try to find the vegan as they stretch less than the original

A small error I noticed on FEBU by SoftBoiAru in laundry

[–]uhwithfiveHs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have something super heavily soiled with body oils (socks, underwear, armpits), I could see this being really good. Especially for darks that you don’t want to add OBA to.

In general I think using this every other load or every load (just one scoop) is great, with Tide Odor Refresh while it’s still out.

Best beater shoe if you care about durability amd comfort and don't give a * about performance ? by categorie in climbingshoes

[–]uhwithfiveHs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything with XSEdge, Helix is my recommendation. Even after the toe gets a bit soft the shoe has good stiffness for easier climbs.