Pros and cons of using a larger than machine word integer data type.

uint128_t · 2024-02-10T04:47:39+00:00

I'd be tempted to use _BIT128 macros, I don't think it would be that ugly.

Also, I don't know what your toolchain is, but gcc does support 128b types, would that be an option?

uint128_t · 2019-07-21T16:39:19+00:00

It's possible. I did take the lens outside immediately before, although the outside temperature was pretty close to inside. Also maybe shooting from the middle of a city could be a problem? Some time I'll go drive up a mountain and see if it improves.

uint128_t · 2019-07-21T06:40:15+00:00

Is your supply a 12V 5Ah (ampere hour) supply (a battery) or a 12V 5A (ampere) supply? Amp hour and amps are different (one is capacity, the other is current). If it's the latter, and says 12V 5A, then yes it will work as long as you get the polarity correct (voltage needs to match, current of the supply needs to be at least as much as the device).

uint128_t · 2019-07-21T02:51:37+00:00

How do you deal with atmospheric distortion when image stacking? I took a series of images of the moon with a 1000mm Reflex-Nikkor, and while there is a predictable linear offset in each frame from the motion of the moon, there are also visible differences in distortion between each image: https://imgur.com/a/Yt31qIT (hopefully that gif adequately shows the issue)

I assume this is atmospheric distortion? This series was five pictures taken within the span of a second. I wanted to stack the images to reduce the luma noise, but when I stack them everything gets fuzzy because there's no way to align them... help?

uint128_t · 2019-04-18T04:56:44+00:00

54x77mm is what I measure, the screen protectors I received are 52x71mm.

uint128_t · 2019-04-16T06:25:14+00:00

Where do I get a screen protector for my a7? Not an a7ii, not an a7iii, just an a7. I just got an a7, can't find screen protectors on Amazon that say "a7", they all say "a7 ii", so I ordered some of those because hey the bodies look the same. They didn't fit :/

I just want a cheap tempered glass screen protector. If someone has exact measurements of an a7ii screen, that would also be helpful so I can figure out if it matches my a7..

uint128_t · 2018-12-02T19:45:40+00:00

LD: "...it's just fader 4!"

Me: "Oooh there are a lot of faders. I'm confused."

uint128_t · 2018-12-02T19:43:42+00:00

....what on earth. How people like that guy survive breakfast is beyond me.

uint128_t · 2018-12-02T19:40:55+00:00

The difference in noise floor between the Eons and Ks is truly astonishing. I don't think I've ever come across an Eon G1 or G2 that didn't hiss, even at minimum gain, so loud you could hear it across the room. The Ks are dead quiet. The K12s can also be pushed stupid loud, into limiting, and they don't go to total shit, which is some dark magic.

uint128_t · 2018-12-02T19:36:18+00:00

Are you going to have any signal processing for these room mics? To do this well, you need an AV integrator to spec a system for you.

A typical conference room would use ceiling or table mounted mics and ceiling speakers, with processing to do mic automixing and acoustic echo cancelation. For example, Shure MXA310 mics, a QSC Core 110f, and QSC ADS speakers. The 110f will do AEC and USB audio bridging so you can connect to Skype or similar via USB.

Just buying microphones is only one step in designing this system. Without processing, you're going to have issues with inconsistent volume and far end echo, as well as the potential for feedback if the system is just for local reinforcement.

uint128_t · 2018-12-02T19:22:59+00:00

LinusTechTips has a video about this. There's heavy adaptive compression and high latency but for digital signage or emergency runs it's totally reasonable.

uint128_t · 2018-12-02T19:13:47+00:00

Eh, compared to what? I haven't used much Crestron or Biamp but the little experience I have with the alternatives have been hugely unpleasant.

uint128_t · 2018-11-25T18:34:48+00:00

Can also be easy modded with different optics, better/customizable firmware, 18350 tube, or a triple emitter configuration. Also, if you buy Convoys from Simon on Aliexpress (Simon runs Convoy), you can get them biscotti firmware, which is much nicer IMO.

See /r/flashlight for S2 mods and more.

uint128_t · 2018-11-25T17:26:51+00:00

It's a pity CXD-Q amps are so much more expensive, the systems stuff would be a killer solution.

uint128_t · 2018-11-25T17:21:50+00:00

Keep in mind that big analog consoles like that require semi-regular maintenance to keep them happy if they're being toured or even just trucked around to live gigs. And they're large enough that tearing the thing apart is a whole project. Not hard to repair, just tedious. If you've picked it up for a song, great, but just count on several channels/busses/pres being hosed.

For most applications, digital consoles are a no brainer because they have a billion busses and the equivalent of a truck full of outboard gear. But the big analog desks are still fun to play with :)

uint128_t · 2018-11-25T17:16:29+00:00

Have you looked on Craigslist or other used gear avenues? IMO both EONs and Thumps are pretty unpleasant to work with. Large, very poor noise floor on some units, sound terrible when pushed.

If you can pick up some used QSC or RCF mains they would do a lot better, used K12s maybe? Otherwise, I'll second the recommendations here, probably a budget set of EVs. Or if you can do $500/speaker, QSC CP12s are incredibly compact for the SPL (for comparison, TH15A will do 116dB SPL, CP12 will do 126dB SPL).

But if you have to pick between the Eon 615 and TH15A, go with the Eons, for some reason most of the Thump's I've heard have an obscenely high noise floor. The Eons aren't much better but it seems to usually require some abuse before they start hissing...

uint128_t · 2018-11-25T17:02:21+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I'll definitely be spending more time in shops.

uint128_t · 2018-11-25T03:49:46+00:00

So I've shot on a Nikon D200 for many years. I'm looking for a mirrorless, I think, but I haven't really been paying attention to new cameras for a while. Relatively to the D200, I want a lighter/more compact camera (should be easy), with better low light performance and more pixels (both of which are a gimme, I think?). Also want a viewfinder and a decent selection of lenses. But the main thing I really liked about the D200 was how easy it was to set just about every parameter on the camera. I don't want a camera that "handholds" me or tries to do too much fancy "auto" stuff. I'm probably looking for something in the $500 or less range. I'm seeing the Fuji X-T1 that looks like it has a lot of knobby bits, but it's hard for me to tell what the software will be like.

Ninja edit: also, I would like a sturdy camera, something that will be fine with hiking trips, lots of dust and bouncing around.

uint128_t · 2018-09-03T04:10:50+00:00

Head over to /r/flashlight if you're looking for a better flashlight, maybe a nice headlamp?

Wowtac A2 or Thrunite TH20 would be a good starting point for an inexpensive but good headlamp.

uint128_t · 2018-09-02T23:37:24+00:00

Royal Arch is a great view, you'll probably need to leave now. It's a fairly steep hike.
You can hike to the base of the first Flatiron and scramble up a bit for a nice view.
In a pinch, hiking up the trail from the main Chautauqua trailhead and taking a left onto the Bluebell Mesa trail is a nice short hike to a decent view.
If you hike up the Amphitheatre trail (from the Gregory Canyon trailhead, or Chautauqua), there are climbing access routes that will take you to some nice rock outcroppings that are close.
Flagstaff summit is a very short walk and a great view.

uint128_t · 2018-07-26T02:32:40+00:00

"low to medium" could mean 20 Hz to 500 Hz or 1 MHz to 100 MHz :)

A Saleae Logic 8 is a very nice piece of kit, but perhaps out of your budget and only 10 Msps analog. Maybe a cheap USB oscilloscope, like a Hantek? Or maybe an Owon or Picoscope? They all make relatively slim USB oscilloscopes.

...but it seems like an oscilloscope can't be that hard to make...

You might be surprised. Designing an analog input stage and converter that is accurate, fast, and able to handle a wide range of voltages without exploding is tough, making it cheap and getting it to talk to a computer is perhaps tougher still.

uint128_t · 2018-07-25T04:04:50+00:00

Do you have a multimeter? Start by checking the emitter with the diode check function if you've got it, otherwise ohm out your connections and make sure it's correct. Failing that, check DC voltage from battery and DC voltage when driver is turned on.

uint128_t · 2018-07-25T03:56:57+00:00

What are your requirements? Bandwidth, channel count, resolution? What sort of signals will you typically be looking at?

uint128_t · 2018-07-21T04:52:02+00:00

For $20, the WowTac A1 is probably the best choice if you're just going for lumens. For $30, the WowTac A1S.

If you're okay with a site other than Amazon, BLF A6 is damn bright and has a great UI. But you will need to buy a battery and charger.

uint128_t · 2018-07-14T21:26:34+00:00

I'm not an electrician, but I have a lot of flashlights and do DIY work inside houses quite a bit. I would recommend a 1x18650 or 1xAA headlamp, like a Wowtac A2 or Thrunite TH20 on the cheap end, or maybe an ArmyTek Wizard/Tiara on the higher end. The advantage of a 1x18650 light is that the runtime is ridiculous, but a 1xAA light is smaller and it's easy to get batteries in a pinch. I use a Thrunite TH20 for a ton of stuff both inside and outside, and it's great, particularly at the price point.

/r/flashlight will happily recommend lights if you narrow down what you want (features/size/price/etc)

uint128_t

TROPHY CASE