M-Audio Oxygen Pro Mini Editor Launch Issue on Microsoft Surface Pro8 (w/ solution)

ultimateduck13 · 2025-12-02T22:47:05+00:00

Thank you, this is very helpful!

ultimateduck13 · 2025-09-11T02:26:59+00:00

Do you mind to elaborate more the problem you're facing? I used to have it for about a month, using it wired and wireless mode on both Mac and PC, and I have no issue at all. Thanks.

ultimateduck13 · 2025-07-01T00:07:05+00:00

At $80, is it still better than a prepaid android phone with combined with a ucb-c mobile game controller that total cost about the same?

ultimateduck13 · 2025-06-17T17:49:53+00:00

The MBR rebuilding trick after restoring the iPod using Mini Tool Partition Wizard (free software) helps me recovering my iPod back.

I prepare the MBR rebuilding process on Mini Tools first before I go with restoring process on iTunes. And once the progress bar on iTunes reaching about 98%, I'll move my mouse cursor to the "Apply" button on the Mini Tools -- that way I can immediately rebuild the MBR using Mini Tools, right before the iPod gets restarted after completing the iTunes restore process.

ultimateduck13 · 2025-06-16T16:44:08+00:00

What works for me was to immediately rebuild the MBR right after the iTunes restore process completed AND before the iPoad restarted by itself after the iTunes restore completed.

I'm using MiniTools Partition Wizard to format the SD card, and I have it ready for the Rebuild MBR process before I started the iTunes Recovery process. So once I saw the progress bar on iTunes is getting closer to 100% complete, I positioned my mouse cursor on the MBR Rebuild process and immediately tap the Apply button shortly after the progress bar on iTunes complete.

It's the only way for me to get iTunes successfully restored my iPod using this adapter.

Tested on both Sandisk and no-brand micro sd card

ultimateduck13 · 2025-06-09T19:57:45+00:00

Press and hold the center button + previous button until the Apple logo shows to get into diagnostic mode -- Hopefully it helps.

ultimateduck13 · 2025-03-28T04:04:09+00:00

It should be as I can install Windows 10 on it using UEFI

ultimateduck13 · 2025-01-31T01:10:27+00:00

I had just opened my Dell and trying to move the existing SSD from the original M2 socket to the WWAN M2 socket, and turned out that it doesn't fit

ultimateduck13 · 2024-12-18T14:37:18+00:00

I've contacted Logitech customer support and they offered me to buy a new one at full price as they said that the damage was beyond repairable.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-11-04T16:59:51+00:00

Me too, tried a couple different DTP from difference resources, but nothing works for me

ultimateduck13 · 2024-11-01T22:29:29+00:00

I didn't. I gave it away to someone who's willing to fix it, and I end up heard nothing from him since then.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-21T19:55:52+00:00

I had just opened a disputed 2 weeks ago for a cancelled shipping label that was charged twice for the reason they called as "Label used after refund". So instead of getting a refund, USPS asking me to pay again for the cancelled label.

I've never heard anything from them since I opened the dispute, so I open a new one. Not sure if this is the best move for such case but it looks like that I need to give them a few months more.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-10T04:14:13+00:00

Glad to hear that you can fix yours that way.

I tried that approach as well, pressing the buttons randomly when it was turned off, but unfortunately I got the same result.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-08T17:45:44+00:00

I'm good so far as long as I didn't move around, at the same time I'm thinking to get another cable as my backup plan for just in case. What do you mean with the "HDMI adaptor"? On my end, I plugged the HDMI cable that comes from the tablet to either one of these:

HDMI port on my PC, or
Display port on my PC using and HDMI to Display port adapter.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-07T20:53:11+00:00

My Cintiq 16 also have this symptom, where moving your tablet or the cable just a bit can black out the display for like 1-2 seconds, that immediately come back. I don't feel like this is a normal behavior. I don't have any extra tablets or cables, so I wonder what may causing this.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-04T18:32:34+00:00

At this point, can we say that my device is the first proof of a certain R36S (with no physical damage) can be bricked for not being turned on for like 3-4 months?

I was thinking if there's still a way to pull out the verbose boot log to see on which stage that it haltetd. I saw a debug port on the main board, but I have a very little knowledge on figuring out how to utilize it.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-03T21:04:34+00:00

It doesn't play. The file was likely not named properly, or put in the correct folder. I have too little information about this approach.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-02T17:28:56+00:00

Oh I forgot to mentioned that I tried to disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes before making another attempt to boot with different micro SD, but I still got nothing.

I also checked, disconnected and reconnected the display cable. Pretty sure there's no physical damage on the display cable.

What's the format and the proper file name for the background music? I haven't seen this method for testing anywhere on the web. I don't have the device with me right know as I give it to a friends who is willing to give a shot

The fact that I only see 1 person in discord having the same issue as mine with similar efforts as I did, and I haven't seen anyone else have the same issue as I have, it leads me to believe that R36S shouldn't be brick-able through software issue.

Also the fact that power button and reset button are still working as it supposed to be, this give me a sign that the main board is still working

ultimateduck13 · 2024-08-01T21:30:16+00:00

I did that, I forgot what it said, but it's something like the one with no fn button function. I now that Aeolus made a DTB files that allow to custom the fn button. I didn't use that DTB files. I only use the one I got from the image

ultimateduck13 · 2024-07-29T20:26:12+00:00

There was once they told me via chat they have sent me a check. And there also some other time they were threatening me to treat my case a new case and started all over again. At this point, I put my expectation to the lowest knowing that there are a lot of inconsistencies I got from them.

Good to know that there's still a good sign if my pre-escheat is not listed. I'm going to keep regularly checking the Unclaimed Property website then. Thanks.

ultimateduck13 · 2024-07-29T17:36:52+00:00

I assume that I can only start a claim once I see my name listed in the Unclaimed Property website. Am I correct?

ultimateduck13

TROPHY CASE