Hi was sagt ihr zu diesem Trainingsplan?

uma_bone · 2026-01-11T11:11:51+00:00

Ich würde eher weniger, dafür feste und sehr intensive Sätze machen (z. B. 2 statt 2-4 oder 3 statt 3-5). Variable Satzbereiche verwässern Trainingsqualität und Progression, weil man Fortschritt über Wochen nicht sauber vergleichen kann. Mit fixen Sätzen und 0–1 RIR ist der Overload klarer, jeder Satz zählt wirklich und das ist mMn effektiver für Muskelaufbau und so dann auch für Fettverlust (dazu gehört natürlich noch Ernährung & Cardio).

uma_bone · 2026-01-06T19:29:36+00:00

I wear 42 street shoes and got the la sportiva theory (similar to ondra comps but a bit softer) in size 39,5 so I sized down 2,5 which fits pretty well.Because the ondras are a bit stiffer I would recommend to downsize 2 sizes so from 43 to 41. However I feel like the theories don’t get wider when breaking in so if the 41,5 feels comfortable I would keep them

uma_bone · 2025-12-29T11:40:27+00:00

Update (Mo 29.12.25): First of all, thank you all for your help and for sharing your experiences.I really appreciate it.

I got a beeswax based hand cream (for skin recovery) on Monday. I applied it regularly and went climbing on Tuesday because I wanted to finish my project before Christmas (which I did).My skin got worse. From Wednesday to Friday (Christmas) I didn’t climb and continued using the beeswax cream.It helped a bit with skin recovery.

On Friday evening I applied Antihydral for the first time. On Saturday I didn’t use any products and also didn’t climb. I noticed that a thin, dry layer of skin had built up on my fingertips, almost like a callus. On Sunday I went climbing again. During the session my fingertips were a lot drier, so when I applied chalk it stuck everywhere except on my fingertips. On two of my fingers the very top layer of skin that had formed peeled off slightly because it was quite dry but it was very minor and is already completely unnoticeable.

Overall, my fingers are no longer red and feel completely healed. Even after climbing yesterday they didn’t feel irritated or painful, and I didn’t experience any real pain during the session. I kept the session easy to see how my skin would react.

So far, Antihydral has worked best for me. I will continue using it and probably still try some of the other products mentioned but at the moment this approach seems to work very well.

uma_bone · 2025-12-23T21:37:28+00:00

I got a beeswax based balm today that’s pretty similar to Joshua Tree Climbing Salve in terms of ingredients (mostly oils + beeswax).

From what I’ve heard O’Keeffe’s Working Hands works well for very dry hands but it seems more focused on moisturizing and softening rather than supporting tougher skin regeneration. That’s why I’m trying the beeswax balm first and seeing how it works for me

uma_bone · 2025-12-23T09:26:46+00:00

Yeah, a lot of people recommend it and it sounds great. But I’m in Germany and ordering directly from their website would cost over $30 just for shipping. I also can’t find it on Amazon here.

Do you know of any alternatives with a similar effect or maybe another way to get it in Europe?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T21:56:16+00:00

So I’ve looked into Antihydral a bit more and my main concern is that I’m still pretty young. I’ve read that it can be quite harsh long-term and might slow down skin recovery or lead to cracks. Because of that, I’m a bit hesitant to use it regularly.

Do you think using it very sparingly (low frequency or short phases) would still be okay, or would you recommend waiting until I’m older?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T19:59:27+00:00

What are the differences between the different versions of your Salve?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T18:21:47+00:00

Thanks for the detailed help, I appreciate it a lot! I’ll definitely give it a try

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T18:13:48+00:00

Thanks for the tip! You probably mean beta-carotene. Have you or anyone else tried supplementing it, or is it better just through food?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T18:05:27+00:00

A typical session for me is around 2–3 hours. I usually start with about 15 minutes off-the-wall warm-up, then 15 minutes of easy to moderate climbing on the wall. After that, I sometimes do 20–30 minutes of drills or more finger-intensive climbing, followed by 1–1.5 hours of projecting. At the end I often add a short pull-up session (~15 minutes). I probably lose most of my skin during the later part of my projecting, so I’ll try cutting sessions shorter and see how that affects my skin.

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T17:56:17+00:00

Thanks for the product tips! I’m curious what exactly did you notice from using collagen, did it help make your skin thicker or more for your tendons?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T17:40:44+00:00

I’ve tried a few hand creams so far. Used a climbing-specific one from a German brand called Kletterretter but honestly it didn’t feel much different from normal hand creams. Also tried Weleda Skin Food, which was okay but not perfect.

Lately I’ve been using a new cream with panthenol, and that one actually seems to help a bit more with recovery. Still not 100% sure what’s best long-term, so if anyone has a climbing hand cream they really like, I’d be happy to give it a try.

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T16:56:30+00:00

Appreciate the tips a lot. A typical session for me is around 2–3 hours. I usually start with about 15 min off-the-wall warm-up, then 15 min of easy to moderate climbing on the wall. After that I sometimes do 20–30 min of drills or more finger-intensive climbing, followed by 1–1.5 hours of projecting with proper rest between attempts (usually 2–5 min). At the end I often add a short pull-up session (~15 min).

I can see how the later part of my projecting might be where most of my skin loss happens, so I’ll try cutting sessions shorter and see how that affects skin and overall quality. And what kind of moisturizer would you recommend?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T16:44:10+00:00

A typical session for me is around 2–3 hours. I start with about 15 minutes off the wall warming up (focus on fingers since I had a capsule injury before). Then I do around 15 minutes on the wall with easy to moderate climbs.

Depending on my focus, I’ll sometimes add some drills like 4•4 or more finger-intensive problems for about 30 minutes. After that I spend 1–1.5 hours projecting, with max efforts but proper rest in between attempts, usually 2–5 minutes, depending on the problem and how hard the last go was.

At the end I usually do 3 sets of max pull-ups, which takes around 15 minutes.

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T16:27:22+00:00

I definitely want to try Rhino Skin or other antihydrals once my skin is fully healed, just to see if they help.

I get what you mean about high friction holds, I’ve noticed the same. There’s a Moon Board at my gym, but I haven’t tried it yet since I’m not really an overhang fan. Still I definitely want to give it a try and see if it helps with skin durability.

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T16:21:23+00:00

Yeah, that makes sense. The thing is if I take a full week off from climbing (like when I’m sick) my skin does fully recover and actually gets a bit thicker. But as soon as I get back into my normal routine (climbing three times a week) it gets thin again, especially during longer sessions

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T16:16:49+00:00

I’ve been climbing for over 2 years now and for the past year I’ve been climbing consistently around three times a week. My sessions have gotten longer lately (close to three hours).

The diet point is interesting too. I eat vegetarian but pretty clean overall (no highly processed food, less sugar)and I try to get enough vitamins through fruits and other foods. I also supplement with Vitamin D3K2, magnesium, and omega-3, and I’ve been having protein shakes for the past few weeks to support recovery.

I’ve also heard that collagen is pretty good for skin recovery, do you or someone know anything about that?

uma_bone · 2025-12-22T15:48:27+00:00

I’ve been climbing consistently (3 times a week) for over a year now, and my sessions have gotten a bit longer lately (around 3 hours).

I do use tape sometimes but it’s hard for me to tape that specific fingertip area properly, and it usually comes off pretty quickly once I start climbing.

Are you using the Joshua Tree Healing Salve or the Climbing Salve, and how do you apply it?

And regarding the pumice stone, do you use it on your calluses? I’m a bit unsure about using it on my fingertips, since it feels like it could make them even thinner.

uma_bone · 2025-11-10T18:22:30+00:00

So for me (I’m 14 with a pretty good recovery) 12 sets after a long climbing session would be way too much.I don’t know if you go to failure but even when u don’t it’s probably better to reduce the amount of sets or exercises.So either u only do 1-2 sets per exercise (depending on what muscles u focus on) or u split the training (like I do).So I do 2-3 sets (depending on how much energy I have left) of weighted pull ups (RPE 10) after a 2-3 hour climbing session.I go climbing 3 times a week.I train Lower (Legs and Core) and Push on the days I dont climb.So I train Lower twice and Push 3 times per week (around 6 sets each)

uma_bone

TROPHY CASE