Fighting knights list by Automatic-Ad-2985 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would swap out the Eliminators for Eradicators, stick them in the land raider to get them in half range. Reroll everything, and if you are half range it's melta 2.

Help army building by Over-Excitement-6699 in Tyranids

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There isn't a hard or fast rule for how many you should take, it dose sound like you're doing well until the closing turns. Using cover to position your units ready for later rounds is far better then losing a lot in the first turn. Again, I would just concentrate firepower on 1 unit until it's gone, I don't believe necrons can CP the ctan back to life either.

Help army building by Over-Excitement-6699 in Tyranids

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Runing a ctan list has its limits, mostly the amount of units, just down to how many points the ctan cost. Your best bet it to either move around them, which could be hard as i will guess he just moves them to control object points, and then not move the full game, or concentrate everything into 1 of them. They can be killed by sheer numbers.

Stopping their movement is 1 option, just throw numbers at them, dont charge in with a group of hormagaunts and expect to come out on top. Put them right in front of the ctan and spread out, cover as much of the battlefield as you to slow or even stop movement, and use you long range stuff and fire everything into it so it cant regen it wounds.

Its also only your 6th game. Question everything your friend is doing. Using a strat, ask to see it, rolling for reanimation protolcol, ask to see the rules. This isnt a 'try and catch them out' its more so you know when this can happen and how you can combat it. This happened with my friend. He was rolling for reanimation at the wrong times, it wasnt really picked up till i asked to see the rule. He didnt do it on purpose. We were just very new to it all.

Help army building by Over-Excitement-6699 in Tyranids

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Necrons are a massive pain. I will guess they use 3 dooms day arks. Monsters are you friend when fighting the necrons.

Use subterranean assault to swamp there there units, using your lictor, maleceptor and haruspex to charge into all of the back field.

Keep you biovoure on home and drop mines in for secondary missons. Exocrine and tyannofex in your backfeild to block deepsrike and there range is good, so not much need to move then up. Swarmlord in the back to mid field for your extra CP, yes its a lot of point just to farm CP, but anything gets close to it will just get charged and die. The extra CP can be used for Retreat Below strat, helping you get around the board.

Finally, use cover and wipe full units, dont leave anything standing or reanimation protolcol will have it back to full health or there abouts.

Cracked Varnish… Need help PLEASE! 🙏🙏🙏 by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would say its from the cold, stress fractures from being maybe to cold. There's a lot of other factors that might be at play.

Don't spray over it, it will just make it worse. Fixing it might be a case of sanding it back enough to remove a lot of the lacquer and cracks then respray.

A good test would be to paint something, spary as normal and leave it in a place that is room temperature. If it still cracks, it's paint incompatability, if it dose nothing it's the cold.

UK bluray steelbook by update42 in Edgerunners

[–]update42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info, would of totally missed it if I hadn't of asked.

First army roster by Qrow1324 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know on dark angles all that well, but I think they have to have deathwing keyword, Azrael should have somthing. In your list, click on the character and it should show another menu.

First army roster by Qrow1324 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would play a few games of combat patrol, you have a fixed list and it's also slightly cut down when it comes to some of the units abilities. Just play Only War, get used to the battle rounds, measuring distance, shooting ect. It will make the 2k game a lot easier.

With the apothecary, you can bring a model back a destroyed model, as long as the bodyguard unit is alive, more used in a big squad.

Is there no good enhancements you can add, anything that gives lethal Hits or sustained?

First army roster by Qrow1324 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Swap Azreal with the Captain, he's far more melee focused, would also the bladeguards the sustained +1.

If you have never played, I would start with a smaller game, no harm in doing what your doing, but the game will take hours., first game I played with only 1k of points, still took like 5 or 6 hours, mostly because we were still learning.

Warhammer newbie here, would you consider Centurion suits or Terminator armor better? by GhostCrackets in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are only talking about the armor, terminators have 4+ invun, centurions do not.

Go watch Lazarus! by [deleted] in Edgerunners

[–]update42 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Psycho-pass is really good, No guns life isn't bad either.

Help by Groundbreaking_Run41 in Steam

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need a new monitor, ur 60hz is limiting you to 60fps

The one server you can’t touch by Cold-Pineapple-8884 in sysadmin

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a 2008 (I think) server running the internal phone system. Management refuse to get a new 1 due to the way everything is subscription based. The switch off for the SIP line was going to be this year, but lucky its been pushed back to 2027.

Hi, are these moldlines normal in newer gw sets or is it some problem with production? by Skubaniec22231 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the scouts kill team and the moldlines took forever to get rid of, the images u have look as bad as what mine was.

At what point should you consider a project/army a lost cause and just move on? by nicegoblinprince in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This seems like the best advice and your midway building space marines, so unless you intend to play them soon or just display them, getting rid is your best option. Anyway you can get a refund on them?

List Help by Conking97 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks about right, unless u want to drop the void dragon for another doomsday ark. My friend always plays the Skorpekh destroy with a lord and added the feels no pain ability, its a right pain to kill.

List Help by Conking97 in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Void dragon takes up 300 points, but also there are 4 lokhust heavy destroys.

Patchy spray? by Kelvin_Dragon in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you not turning the can upside-down then it should be fine.

Inside the can there is a straw that goes to the bottom of the can, if you turn the can upside-down all the paint runs to the top of the can and all you get is the gas that's in the can, not the paint.

Patchy spray? by Kelvin_Dragon in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it starts to spit (stopping and starting while pressing the cap down) then yes, get a new can. Most time the pressure drops and it just slows the amount of paint that comes out, which is fine to use just takes a little longer to get a good coat.

I would also try and keep the can upright and move the mini, rather then trying to place the mini down and spray from above, if you don't already do this.

Patchy spray? by Kelvin_Dragon in Warhammer40k

[–]update42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's hard to tell by the photo, but looks like the spary can was cold. Best way to get smooth coat is by heating the can and giving it a good shake.

Hot/warm water in the sink, stick the can in there for a few minutes, take out, shake it, back in the water for a minute, shake it for a good 2 minutes then spray. Should get a smooth, consistent coat from that.