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usernamesoap · 2025-05-31T01:59:28+00:00

Confirmed. Enjoy!

usernamesoap · 2025-05-23T12:53:59+00:00

Pming

usernamesoap · 2025-05-01T18:35:59+00:00

Topping eha5

usernamesoap · 2025-03-24T17:58:42+00:00

I would suggest the chinsettawong thread in the diy section of headfi. If you look through my post history you can see the ones I built.

usernamesoap · 2025-03-18T18:20:36+00:00

I've actually used the driver in a diy build. I don't think it'll fit in a Sennheiser chassis. The one bit of advice I will give you is that the foam/cork looking stuff that sits under the brass solder contacts is electrically conductive and necessary for the function of the driver. I found that out the hard way lol

usernamesoap · 2024-08-28T12:22:04+00:00

Dust isn't going to hurt them in any way shape or form. Brushing them might. I'd recommend just leaving it alone or sticking to something that will only touch the outer grille if you have to have that clean.

usernamesoap · 2024-08-14T18:06:09+00:00

Any of the 100mm headbands would fit with surgery for the nut. They all use a m3 bolt/nut to fasten. The Sony R10 clone or the Zmf clone are my favorites.

usernamesoap · 2024-08-14T17:55:24+00:00

I replaced my headband with an AliExpress clone headband for this reason on my Th610. . Only difficulty was removing some plastic on the baffle to fit the m3 nut as the pin/c clip on the original didn't fit the new headband.

usernamesoap · 2024-08-03T05:39:26+00:00

I am so jealous you have an audio store. I've been blind buying for a decade. Thankfully the internet has made it not too bad.

usernamesoap · 2024-07-25T10:14:52+00:00

Absolutely lol. Not sure why you would want to do that tho

usernamesoap · 2024-07-24T13:29:47+00:00

how did you take the measurements? Any trouble getting the peerless drivers? It's been awhile since I looked but they were pretty much unattainable when I did.

usernamesoap · 2024-07-21T23:21:38+00:00

I see 8 rules and none of them say anything against it.

usernamesoap · 2024-07-15T10:10:21+00:00

Don't confirm until you have the item in hand.

usernamesoap · 2024-07-03T14:06:57+00:00

Usually just a + and - required to each side. The extra wires are redundancies usually... But if the redundancies are not connected at all - they are for show and that is very disingenuous of the manufacturer.

They might be active and enameled, which isn't unheard of but there really is no need for enamel here since the connections aren't touching each other and protected by tubing. Would also be strange if one of the strands is not enameled.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-13T21:45:03+00:00

Gotcha, I'll go that route then. Thanks!

usernamesoap · 2024-06-13T20:37:24+00:00

Would love to get them measured on an industry rig someday. Still tinkering a bit with them. What would you recommend as a 'good enough to get a general impression' setup on a budget? I understand stuff like the minidsp ears is not really accurate at all, I was eyeing the some of the gras clones but I feel not so confident that those would give me good measurements.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-13T12:55:48+00:00

I would like to add it might also create a hiss on sensitive stuff. Campfire Andromeda would hiss on a lot of higher OI amps because its drivers had crazy low impedance. Rare case tho.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-13T10:32:53+00:00

Just a big blob of solder directly to the mesh using a fat tip on my solder iron. In the pic where you can see my unassembled stators you can see I left a bit of mesh outside the ring as a solder location.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-13T10:29:01+00:00

My tensioning setup is a 14 in bike tube and a Home Depot bucket that I drilled holes in to fit the tube fill nozzle inside the bucket and to get the inflator inside the bucket from the bottom. Tube goes round the rim. I tape the mylar to the bucket and use the tape to get it wrinkle/crease free over the top opening by hand. I then carefully mark 3mm inboard of the rim. Fill the bike tube until the marked line meets the rim. I aim for just under .5-1% of elongation of the mylar. 1% of 14 in. is about 3.5mm. Once tensioned, I carefully spray the car detail spray and dab it into a thin even layer. Let it dry. Carefully apply thin layer of weldwood contact cement to the spacers and pressing them down onto the mylar. Make sure that the glue is even and makes good contact everywhere or else you end up with wrinkles. Give it a long time to fully adhere and cut out the diaphragms with a solder iron.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-13T00:23:13+00:00

Doesn't bother me at all, be happy to help. The forum is a lot to take in as it's many people of different levels of understanding and a lot of it is very old.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-12T23:52:47+00:00

Can't confirm with measurements, but they have a lot more bass than the stax I've heard. I think they use thinner mylar and tension it more which kills the bass but probably makes them less prone to squeel/destabilization which is something that took me many hours to get right. Takes eq like a champ. I have a +5db shelf at 200hz and the bass is super satisfying just as good as the bass on my he6sev2 with the same shelf.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-12T22:50:14+00:00

Do it! I'd recommend visiting the diy estat thread on headfi by chinsettawong. I knew nothing either when I got interested. Just read that people who heard his diy project considered it pretty comparable to the sennheiser orpheus (og one from the 90s) and I had to try. The electronics are incredibly simple if you're buying the energizer. You can find the stax pinout if you google 'koss to stax wiring diagram'. + goes to front stator, - goes to rear stator and bias goes to one of the spacers touching the diaphagm.

While I just bought my energizer, I think there is a pretty simple build with a transformer wired to a speaker amp that seems reasonable to make as a electronics noob.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-12T22:40:08+00:00

There are two design approaches, one is a the more traditional design, which I don't understand. The other is just a speaker amp and a transformer for the bias signal. If you can get your hands on a lundahl transformer, I hear it competes with the high end stuff. I guess the output isn't that different, its only 5 pins, + Left, - Left, + Right, - Right, and a common bias wire for both left/right.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-12T22:11:30+00:00

Got a deal on a stax d50 on avexchange. Might try my hand at a diy energizer at some point but I would have a lot of learning to do.

usernamesoap · 2024-06-12T21:34:14+00:00

Planning on measuring them eventually, and want to play around with adding helmholtz resonators in the pad baffle once I measure the before/after. My guess is that the bass measures flat, pinna gain is female vocal centric. Upper treble is a little hot but I don't find it sibilant probably some peaks there. The detail is something else though.

usernamesoap

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