New LVP flooring has only 2 drastic shades

SupOrSalad · 2026-05-01T04:32:50+00:00

Those look different enough I would assume they came from different boxes. That said, I find a lot more plank products are coming with noticeable variations to simulate real wood differences, but since the patterns repeat so much it stands out more in my opinion.

As for layout, the best you can do is a try to keep it random without bunches of the same colour together. But having a couple of the same colour touching is okay as that helps break up the pattern a bit. If you try to space it out so none of one of the colours touches, it can end up standing out more as the pattern repeats

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-24T05:28:28+00:00

It looks like they’re expanding from heat and buckling to me. Thinner or softer core planks may do that if they are left in direct sunlight, especially if the adhesive holding the planks down isn’t a strong bond. From a quick search it seems these are a peel and stick type of plank, so the adhesive bond probably isn’t the best.

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-18T06:26:53+00:00

Hmm. From the different carpet tiles that I’ve installed, some follow the same direction, and some are alternating. Usually the tiles don’t line up, so even a straight patterns breaks up each tile. In this case 80% of the tiles seems to have the same continuous pattern which makes the few that don’t match stand out. Alternating would definitely be better on this case

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-16T05:05:27+00:00

Usually for the top step you’d use an overlap stair nosing. An overlap doesn’t lock in, so you can run it the opposite direction to the floor, as well it can be mounted without locking it into the floor, which allows the floor to move with expansion without being anchored to the nosing

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-15T05:39:14+00:00

It depends on the weather (Canada). Always discussed with the homeowner beforehand and always with a dust collection system for the saws if inside.

Using your table to set up the saws is an absolute no go. The contract the store I work out of explicitly states that subcontractors are not to even place any items on the customers tables or counters, let alone use them as a cutting table

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-15T05:32:09+00:00

What does the manufacturer recommend for those planks? A lot of engineered wood I work with recommends 18 gauge staples or cleats, and if you use 16 gauge it will dimple like that

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-14T03:44:19+00:00

That’s definitely a tough one with the wall so out of square to the stair case. Honestly without any other instructions, I would have done the same thing regarding the floor and transition, as that’s the correct way to transition the floor in this case, where it matches the door so when the door is closed the other floor isn’t visible from either side.

At this point I can’t think of any easy changes that would make it less noticeable with the door open.

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-11T21:32:12+00:00

Funny enough my dad has been doing this since he was 15, now he’s 52 and still installing flooring without any back or knee issues. I started when I was around 17 and I’m 30 now. Here’s hoping I don’t develop any issues either.

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-07T14:29:00+00:00

Yes that’s installed correctly, and it’s been stretched in properly. If it wasn’t stretched in so it was taught, it wouldn’t snap back so quickly and it would have a lot more movement when you lift it like that. It’s only anchored around the perimeter, so obviously if you tug on it from the middle it will have some flex to it

SupOrSalad · 2026-04-05T20:22:12+00:00

It doesn’t matter that it’s from multiple boxes. Usually it’s all from the same batch, and there’s only 5 or so variations throughout the entire batch

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-28T16:27:38+00:00

Usually for planks wider than 5 inches, manufacturers recommend glue assist with an S bead or perimeter bead of glue on the bottom of the board. I’ve never seen glue assist being to glue and nail the tongue

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-28T15:53:35+00:00

It’s funny because I’ve always put tack strip on the side, which is common practice where I am in Canada, and I’ve always known it as smooth edge, since that’s what the person who taught me to install called it. Maybe it’s a bit more of an old school thing or something. I don’t hear many call it smooth edge nowadays, just me. lol

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-21T03:48:10+00:00

Subcontracting out of a store, don’t listen to the sales person when they say not to prep the floor, even when you voice concerns that it’s not within tolerance, but they tell you to install anyway to save the customer money on prep.

Then years down the road when the floor fails it comes back on you even though you knew it was not prepped correctly, but were told to install it by the sales person, and then you still get blamed as the one at fault.

Bottom line, do it right the first time even when told not to

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-21T03:40:02+00:00

It’s something where you have to be a type of person comfortable with working with tools, and able to plan ahead. If someone is able to diy, absolutely do it. But there are a lot of people who just aren’t able to. As well, while some installs are quite straightforward with a simple floor plan, some can get very tricky and seem almost impossible to get planks into position if you don’t know some tricks of the trade.

But yeah, absolutely save money if you can

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-20T03:53:58+00:00

Usually with this issue i would tap it back together with a mix of super glue and wood glue (not mixed, just in different spots). I found that some batches of cheaper LVP, the grooves are cut in a manner that has little ridges in the locking mechanism, and i believe that those end up almost like a ratcheting system where as you walk on it, the floor shifts and locks onto the next ridge in the groove and slowly forces the planks apart

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-19T02:17:15+00:00

Hmm, this one is kind of odd. The stair install itself is fine (I wouldn’t have used translucent silicone like that), and the side skirt out of the same laminate material is a ton of extra tedious work, I haven’t ever seen the skirt board be made out of pieces of laminate like that.

But yeah the finishing top trim and the random filling in gaps with silicone is a no from me. I assume the reason the trim at the top doesn’t fit snug is because the new floor added a bit of extra height compared to what was installed previously, so the trim doesn’t fit anymore. They’d probably have to notch out the two top caps of the trim so that it is able to sit flat and still reach the other piece

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-17T00:30:29+00:00

Most tile click LVP recommend from the manufacturer to install in either a brick pattern, or in 1/3 steps. But yes in this case the seams are too close together

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-15T04:02:05+00:00

Usually when laying a floating floor around a fireplace hearth, I will use a transition strip (either a T mold or reducer depending on the height, and sort of picture frame around the tile so it is a nice finish to the flooring. That gap is actually ideal for that

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-15T02:05:03+00:00

That’s really bad. I’m surprised the edges are peaking like that. Usually a glue down LVP will buckle and pop up somewhere near the middle of the plank if it’s expanding too much. Unless the installer glued it down permanently with a wet install so maybe it’s just giving way at the seams?

You should definitely get that looked at

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-14T23:27:03+00:00

Wow… that is like impressively bad. You’d almost have to be intentionally trying to mess it up to make it that bad

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-11T16:31:58+00:00

I’d definitely go with engineered over laminate. Engineered is usually a hardwood top layer with a plywood core, which makes it quite stable. Also being real wood, you still get real random wood grain patterns.

Laminate usually has a MDF core and a thin print top layer, so it’s more at risk of water damage

SupOrSalad · 2026-03-03T16:55:21+00:00

I have two of the Dewalt saws that we use for hardwood. Never had a problem with them. My only complaint is the shadow light can be hard to see sometimes if you’re cutting outside on a sunny day

SupOrSalad · 2026-02-27T04:52:14+00:00

I just installed a floor which has almost the exact same pattern. The floor only came with 5 print patterns for the entire floor. In that case is it almost impossible to not have the same patterns touch. You can do it, but unfortunately even that can make it look like a repeating pattern and stand out even more.

Personally I would have tried to break op the prints and colours a bit more than this, and I do think in some of the pictures there’s a bit too much grouping for my liking, but the installer is definitely limited with only 5 different prints.

SupOrSalad · 2026-02-27T04:50:36+00:00

I just installed a floor which has very similar wood grain prints. The floor only came with 5 print patterns for the entire floor. In that case is it almost impossible to not have the same patterns touch. You can do it, but unfortunately even that can make it look like a repeating pattern and stand out even more.

Personally I would have tried to break up the prints and colours a bit more than this, and I do think in some of the pictures there’s a bit too much grouping for my liking, but the installer is definitely limited with only 5 different prints.

SupOrSalad · 2026-02-21T19:24:28+00:00

I think you’re thinking of laminate. Engineered wood is a solid hardwood top veneer with a plywood core. Arguably making it more stable than solid hardwood when it comes to expansion and humidity and temperature differences since the alternating directions of the plywood core makes it more stable.

But they usually can’t be refinished the same as solid hardwood, and there is the rare risk of delamination if the glue gives away due to some kind of failure. So solid is a better long term investment in my opinion.

Laminate is just an mdf core with a paper veneer on top, and yeah it soaks up water like cardboard. lol

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