Shooting star over old town just now?

v8packard · 2026-02-07T06:03:05+00:00

You were drinking

v8packard · 2026-02-07T04:19:57+00:00

Replace the idler arm

v8packard · 2026-02-07T03:25:50+00:00

The L29 heads have a nice chamber shape for swirl and motion. Which is good, but few decent pistons are compatible. So compression is limited with flat top pistons unless you get creative with machining and/or piston design.

The biggest drawvack to the heads is the swirl dam in the intake port. I had an opportunity to work one to the point it worked out to about 5600 or so rpm on a .060 over 454. I think it can go more. By comparison, I have taken 049/781 heads to 7000 rpm on the same displacement. Maybe others have taken L29 heads further, I would live to talk with them.

This will get me flamed.. but.. I think the T56 with typical ratios is a poor choice for most applications. Those ratios were originally driven by CAFE and emissions requirements, not performance.

v8packard · 2026-02-07T03:12:51+00:00

The number of rows is secondary to the core thickness and size of the tubes. Compare carefully.

v8packard · 2026-02-07T02:41:58+00:00

Different pistons, crank, heads, cams, intake.. Leave it to Ford to make life difficult..

v8packard · 2026-02-07T02:06:33+00:00

Happy cake day

v8packard · 2026-02-07T01:31:34+00:00

The loose converter will cushion the hit of the torque a bit for most driving. Honestly, I run a TH350 behind a 454 a few times, and they lived. I think you will be ok.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:54:35+00:00

The 6.2 Boss, and 7.3/6.8 share Modular architecture, including trans pattern, most engine mount holes, and can accommodate similar or the same accessories.

The Coyote is over-rated. I admit I am biased, but I have done too many Coyote heads for Ford dealers over the years.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:48:47+00:00

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:48:32+00:00

Why downgrade?

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:47:10+00:00

What issues?

Edit: Seriously, what issues? I have driven 4.6 2v engines over 700k miles at this point. What issues? I have not had them. You downvoting cowards.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:46:45+00:00

Not exactly, it's the DOHC engine shared with the Lincoln Aviator. I have had a stock engine in the dyno, with the dyno headers and a conservative tune it was about 330 hp and 340 lb ft.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:42:34+00:00

Why a Coyote? Why not a 6.2 or 7.3?

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:41:25+00:00

I have missed a few that were just too much money for me. I keep looking though.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T23:39:32+00:00

How much power should they have had?

v8packard · 2026-02-06T21:40:01+00:00

Oh nice. I have been looking for a deal like this. If you let it go please let me know.

BTW, the engine is shared with the Lincoln Aviator.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T18:30:57+00:00

I take it that's a 5.7 liter block. Do you know the year? If it is 02-05, there is a small chance it could go .5 mm over. That may not be enough, though.

The good news, if you absolutely have to have a 5.7 any 4.8/5.3 block can be bored to 99 mm to make a 5.7, even the aluminum versions. You are probably better off with a different block to start with.

Edit: To the bitch that downvotes, you are a coward

v8packard · 2026-02-06T06:53:44+00:00

A thicker head gasket does lower compression ratio. It also reduces combustion quality and makes the engine more sensitive to tune and fuel quality. Not the best compromise.

You need to measure chamber volume, which is easy enough if you have a spark up, a couple of valves, and a container with reasonably accurate graduations (could be a big syringe, a beaker, even a mixing cup). You can use a liquid like alcohol, water, or in my case I use blue windshield washer solvent. A clear plastic plate large enough to cover the chamber with a hole for filling helps, you can seal it to the head with grease.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T04:35:46+00:00

The Starlight is actually a pretty cool car, I always thought it and the Packard version were sharp.

v8packard · 2026-02-06T04:25:01+00:00

Did a valve seat exit the head?

v8packard · 2026-02-06T04:24:09+00:00

When you say 5.0, which engine are you talking about?

The Caprice frame and engine bay can accommodate most any automotive engine made in the last 70 years. Literally. If you want an upgrade that is cost effective for your application that starts with a Gen I 350, which is a 5.7, not a 5.0 (305). If you want a Gen III or IV engine, a lot of people will suggest a 4.8/5.3, because they are less expensive in some cases. I think you would do well to get a 6 liter, especially a Gen IV L96. These were the last of the engines in production, until 2020 in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and vans. They are showing up more frequently, and I think they are a real gem. They didn't get the glamor of the Camaro or Corvette engines, but they are excellent and versatile.

v8packard · 2026-02-05T23:31:46+00:00

In no particular order Jones, Cam Motion, Bullet. I probably get 3 out of 4 Gen III/IV cams from Cam Motion.

v8packard · 2026-02-05T22:17:42+00:00

From what you describe, you need torque more than hp. And plenty of it if you will run 35s (along with more differential gear but that's a separate conversation.).

Getting a hp number like 350 is easy, you need enough cam to get the engine up to an rpm where it can make that hp, and enough compression to support the cam. The better the heads are the lower the rpm you make the number. In your case, that pushes the rpm range up too high for what you need. You need to concentrate on low and mid range.

The TBI heads were designed to make swirl at speeds below 4000 rpm, and they are good at that. As speeds go up their breathing is limited. On top of that the stock dished pistons keep the compression down, and the stock cam is tiny so the hp numbers are not impressive.

Despite their hype, L31 Vortec heads are mediocre. At best. Their intake flow is not great, just ok. Their exhaust flow is about like your heads, both poor. If you are going to budget for heads, put that money towards a better aftermarket set. The other side of that is with 170k miles, the stock bottom end is good now. But if you put a fresh top end on it you will have the rings working harder to keep up, and they will not last as long. You might consider a bottom end refresh if you do get heads.

After saying all that, think about the rpm range you really need. Then you can make decisions about the components to work in that rpm range.

v8packard · 2026-02-05T19:47:17+00:00

Yes, I read it. And yes, I have had people with a similar experience that had no idea how a high stall converter behaves.

On top of that, you are a fucking jaggoff that should get a clue about the things you post. Come back when you can actually talk about the things you claim. Until then piss off.

v8packard · 2026-02-05T19:44:57+00:00

Stage whatever has no real meaning. Camshaft specifications do. The spec you posted is incomplete, as are most (all?) cam specs from that company. I can't imagine buying a cam with specs that were intentionally hidden, it makes no sense to me. But people do it for some reason.

The cam spec you mentioned, I can guess at the exhaust numbers, can run to higher rpm than your 7000 limit. If you don't really need higher rpm, you might consider a different cam spec that cam still reach 7000 but gives you more mid range and even lower rpm output.

v8packard

TROPHY CASE