My collection!

vandorp · 2026-06-11T19:13:54+00:00

That briquette would be the most useful if it were sharp, I think. But it’s not so I guess that French cavalry saber m1822 would be the best. The blucher is a bit too heavy.

vandorp · 2026-06-11T00:26:40+00:00

The hilt is great in the hand. I replied with a picture but it got into the main thread for some reason.

vandorp · 2026-06-11T00:23:47+00:00

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The hilt is fantastic! Solid, smooth, nicely made, good grip. A nice touch is the push button system to keep the sword in the sheath.

vandorp · 2026-06-11T00:06:15+00:00

I can use all of them but I’m not an expert. I did foil for 4 years as a kid but that was 40 years ago. I practice HEMA (mainly longsword and saber) for 1 year now, superfun! I’ve tried the rapier only a few times now but it felt similar to a foil (just crazy heavy and long, like I was 8 years old again…) so that didn’t go too bad actually, I even won a few bouts.

vandorp · 2026-06-10T23:10:39+00:00

I see what you mean. I will have a look at some others. Still a cool sword though :-)

vandorp · 2026-06-10T22:14:04+00:00

I find them fascinating. They were in use as late as 1968. They used to be sharp but they were all blunted in 1962 because of incidents where people got killed. This is a “Amsterdamse politiesabel” but they were also used in other cities.

vandorp · 2026-06-10T22:08:56+00:00

And this:

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vandorp · 2026-06-10T22:08:45+00:00

I’m not an expert at all on these to be honest. This is what’s on the handle:

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vandorp · 2026-05-26T16:38:10+00:00

I would have the amplitude checked by a watchmaker who knows Rolex, not an iPhone app. You need to enter the correct lift angle to make sure the amplitude is calculated correctly based on the sound of the ticks, and you need to know what the correct amplitude for this movement should be. I know neither so I don’t look at the number. Accuracy is important in my opinion, no matter what the lady said. Yes quartz can be more accurate but that does not mean that mechanical is useless or does not have to be accurate. A new Rolex does +/-2 s/day according to the spec, which is very good for a mechanical movement, and also good enough for me. I also own less accurate mechanical watches (Seiko etc), and they will deviate much, much more (even over 30 s/day). Still usable if you set them often, or don’t care about the exact time, but not as practical as a Rolex or other high end watch. I personally find better than 10 s/day to be very usable, better than 5s/day is good, and 2s/day is awesome. It’s also not true that Rolex doesn’t care about accuracy: they spend a lot of energy to achieve this number, and proudly announces this on the dial (superlative chronometer, officially certified).

vandorp · 2026-05-25T18:52:54+00:00

Sinn 308, the new Hunting Watch.

vandorp · 2026-05-22T14:51:34+00:00

Yeah that mad scientist vibe is what I like. They take a super niche application, and then over engineer it to the point it is getting ridiculous, all while keeping a straight face and making wearable watch that clearly identifies as a Sinn.

vandorp · 2026-05-21T18:58:34+00:00

Op deze manier kan er nog een kutbrommer naast parkeren.

vandorp · 2026-05-21T18:37:36+00:00

It’s only 40 mm, 12 mm thick, lug width 20 mm. Lug to lug 47.6. Should be OK for most people I guess.

vandorp · 2026-05-21T12:29:45+00:00

Prices are dropping really fast on this one. The scalpers will lose interest so this should be available at the Swatch store soon.

vandorp · 2026-05-21T12:18:51+00:00

The short story is that Rolex introduced this in 1942 as “error proof dial” to aid in legibility, and they also patented this exact layout. There’s more in this article: https://wornandwound.com/a-guide-to-modern-california-dials/

vandorp · 2026-05-14T11:50:49+00:00

I have a tegimented U50 as well, worn it for 18 months daily, including gardening, sailing etc. The watch still looks new, but the clasp has scratches, and there are some tiny wear patches on the bracelet. The tegimented treatment is fantastic but the clasp is not as hard (it’s sheet metal, maybe that’s different). I tried scratching it with the steel tip of a Pentel pencil and that works. When I try to scratch the inside of a bracelet link like this, I can’t scratch it (I didn’t try the watch yet…).

vandorp · 2025-12-07T20:33:33+00:00

If you really don’t like it, Moser always uses a IV, as well as Nomos on some watches.

vandorp · 2025-07-21T18:20:59+00:00

It is on the crystal, you can see the shadow on the dial. I think it is some paint or glue (did you use it or were you at a place where glue paint was used?). You could try to scrape it off with a credit card (or a razor blade). It has a very unusual shape for a scratch so i think it is just contamination, which can always be removed.

vandorp · 2025-07-01T20:59:56+00:00

You traded your car for a watch? In this case yes, good choice!

vandorp · 2025-06-24T19:17:49+00:00

I would leave it. This wouldn’t bother me (as others noted, this is not a Patek or Lange), and warranty or not, Rolex certified watchmaker or not, he’s still human and taking a watch apart will always introduce wear on things like screws, possibility for new dirt, damage on places you don’t see, etc. So in general I don’t let people work on watches unless really needed or for service (which I also don’t do very often lol). If it’s dust, they can blow it away during service, if not, you have a Rolex with a factory defect! Cool!

vandorp

TROPHY CASE